Re: Moving Battery to trunk, do you have to have a shut
[Re: smokinwoody]
#193314
01/15/09 11:48 PM
01/15/09 11:48 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271 Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
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Doug, I'm guessing the mad electric wire kit comes with the less expensive relay. I've used some of the cheapest relays ever and never had an issue with the relays. I ALWAYS carried a spare. I generally wire it like the first diagram and use two relays. One for the starter and wired like the diagram. The second I remove the alt wire from the starter relay in the first diagram and run it like the 3rd diagram with the s605. Once the car starts, the only two hot wires to the front run to the starter relay lug and the alternator wire. The starter wire/cable is only hot when the key is in the start position. Hope that helps. It's a bit of a hybrid of the two as I don't like any of the three on a standalone basis. My thinking is that once you throw the cut off, everything beyond the switch and relays should be dead. Keep anything hot contained to a small area in the trunk. Revised the way I like to wire them up.
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Re: Moving Battery to trunk, do you have to have a shut
[Re: RobX4406]
#193320
01/16/09 01:13 AM
01/16/09 01:13 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,698 NE Oklahoma
Von
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,698
NE Oklahoma
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Not to hijack this post, but Ive got a question. Last time out at TRP, (Wade,you might take note) they gritched because my shut off didnt kill the motor.(I figured they would sooner or later) Anyway, why cant I just run the charge wire from the alt to the pos side of the batter? Wouldnt that kill everything when the switch is turned off?
Thanks
72 RR, Pump gas 440, 452s, 3800 lbs, Corked, ET Radials,. 11.33@117.72.
Same car, bone stock 346s, 9.5 comp, baby solid. 12.24@110.
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Re: Moving Battery to trunk, do you have to have a shut
[Re: smokinwoody]
#193322
01/16/09 01:26 AM
01/16/09 01:26 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,698 NE Oklahoma
Von
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,698
NE Oklahoma
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Quote:
yes but the positive at the alternator will be hot...thats why I have a solonoid..
OK. If I run the charge wire from the alt to the battery side of the shutoff wouldnt that kill everything?
72 RR, Pump gas 440, 452s, 3800 lbs, Corked, ET Radials,. 11.33@117.72.
Same car, bone stock 346s, 9.5 comp, baby solid. 12.24@110.
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Re: Moving Battery to trunk, do you have to have a shut
[Re: dirtybee]
#193324
01/16/09 02:54 AM
01/16/09 02:54 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,314 Carstairs, Alberta, Canada
dave571
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,314
Carstairs, Alberta, Canada
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Quote:
ok i've been warned at the track already, how should i run the wires 'cause i don't think the instructions that came with the switch to just interupt the pos batt cable with the switch will be adequet? do i just also run the alt batt wire back to the switch then back forward to the factory batt term on the firewall to basically interupt this circuit with the switch as well? again, sorry i'm a bit thick on this
The easy way, with no relays required.....
Disconnect the factory alternator(heavy b+) output wire from the alt.
Run a heavy wire/cable from the alt B+ to the battery positive terminal in the trunk (or the SAME side of the switch that the battery positive is on)
In review....2 pole switch. One side has the alt B+ wire, AND the batt pos on it. The other side has the cable that goes up to the starter solenoid,(where the factory pos wire used to go)
It's really that simple.
No relays, only one extra wire, it'll shut the car off every time, and pass tech every time.
The rules state that electrical function must cease, and it all does.
Think of it this way. The car needs B+ to run. The batt OR the alt can provide B+ By putting them both on the SAME side of the switch, you isolate them both from the rest of the car when you throw the switch. The other benefit, your ammeter is now bypassed. no chance of melting anything.
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Re: Moving Battery to trunk, do you have to have a shut
[Re: dave571]
#193326
01/16/09 08:14 AM
01/16/09 08:14 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200 Upper Midwest
MoparforLife
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,200
Upper Midwest
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Quote:
Quote:
ok i've been warned at the track already, how should i run the wires 'cause i don't think the instructions that came with the switch to just interupt the pos batt cable with the switch will be adequet? do i just also run the alt batt wire back to the switch then back forward to the factory batt term on the firewall to basically interupt this circuit with the switch as well? again, sorry i'm a bit thick on this
The easy way, with no relays required.....
Disconnect the factory alternator(heavy b+) output wire from the alt.
Run a heavy wire/cable from the alt B+ to the battery positive terminal in the trunk (or the SAME side of the switch that the battery positive is on)
In review....2 pole switch. One side has the alt B+ wire, AND the batt pos on it. The other side has the cable that goes up to the starter solenoid,(where the factory pos wire used to go)
It's really that simple.
No relays, only one extra wire, it'll shut the car off every time, and pass tech every time.
The rules state that electrical function must cease, and it all does.
Think of it this way. The car needs B+ to run. The batt OR the alt can provide B+ By putting them both on the SAME side of the switch, you isolate them both from the rest of the car when you throw the switch. The other benefit, your ammeter is now bypassed. no chance of melting anything.
Exactly like I said above.
Clean it, if it's Dirty. Oil it, if it Squeaks.
But: Don't fix it, if it Works!
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Re: Moving Battery to trunk, do you have to have a shut
[Re: dave571]
#193327
01/16/09 08:21 AM
01/16/09 08:21 AM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 512 Illinois
Mopar_Ray
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 512
Illinois
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Quote:
Quote:
The easy way, with no relays required.....
Disconnect the factory alternator(heavy b+) output wire from the alt.
Run a heavy wire/cable from the alt B+ to the battery positive terminal in the trunk (or the SAME side of the switch that the battery positive is on)
In review....2 pole switch. One side has the alt B+ wire, AND the batt pos on it. The other side has the cable that goes up to the starter solenoid,(where the factory pos wire used to go)
It's really that simple.
Thats the way I did it. Battery and 1 wire alternator wire to one side of switch and everything else to the other side of switch. Why would you do it any other way? Is there any advantage to using all the selenoids?
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Re: Moving Battery to trunk, do you have to have a shut
[Re: RobX4406]
#193330
01/17/09 07:52 AM
01/17/09 07:52 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,852 KENTUCKY
69CHARGERMD
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,852
KENTUCKY
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Quote:
Doug, I'm guessing the mad electric wire kit comes with the less expensive relay. I've used some of the cheapest relays ever and never had an issue with the relays. I ALWAYS carried a spare.
I generally wire it like the first diagram and use two relays. One for the starter and wired like the diagram. The second I remove the alt wire from the starter relay in the first diagram and run it like the 3rd diagram with the s605.
Once the car starts, the only two hot wires to the front run to the starter relay lug and the alternator wire.
The starter wire/cable is only hot when the key is in the start position.
Hope that helps. It's a bit of a hybrid of the two as I don't like any of the three on a standalone basis. My thinking is that once you throw the cut off, everything beyond the switch and relays should be dead. Keep anything hot contained to a small area in the trunk.
Revised the way I like to wire them up.
Rob,,,, Is there an advantage to running TWO relays,,,, Wouldnt the pic below be OK ? Sorry,,,i am learning here,,,, Seems like the same thing ?? (ps,,in your pic,,you have 2 "different" relays,,one a "ford" the other a sBorg ? (is there a difference,,),,again forgive my electrical knowledge,,
Last edited by 69CHARGERMD; 01/17/09 08:13 AM.
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