I have a 1965 Satellite and I installed a 440 in it. The 440 came out of a 1976 motor home. It has new .030 pistons, 292/509 cam, and the heads are iron heads with 214/181 valves. The problem I have is that I can't cruise without the car getting up to 210 or higher if I'm just sitting in traffic. While steady cruising it comes down to around 190-195. It has a new large stock radiator, Proform electric water pump, and a 10-12 inch electric fan. Help, any suggestions?

what type of temp gauge ?

It's a Summit mechanical temperature gauge.

10-12" Electric fan?

You need more fan!

Sounds like your fan is not up to the task and electric water pumps are really more for strip use than street use. IMO with an electric w/ pump an electric fan that flows enough is going to be too taxing on your electrical system. The average aftermarket electric just doesn't flow nearly what some of the good OEM electric do or stock fixed fans.

I just built a stroker RB for my Dart, and it has 11-1 compression, RPM heads, mild cam (with lot's of duration), MSD ignition, etc.

It has a 440 source alum water pump package, a Zirgo 16" fan (supposed to flow upwards of 3000 cfm ), and a Northern 26 aluminum rad. It currently has a 160* thermostat.

It only has about 30 miles on the whole thing (da#m snow ).

It too will run up to 210 or so idling in traffic, and come down 10-15* once moving again.

I was told that a newly built engine will run hot, until it loosens up a little. I have no idea if this is true or not. Maybe someone here will chime in.

I have also been told by a competent builder here that 210* is nothing to worry about. Personally I'd be happier if it ran at 180-190*.

I'm gonna change my thermostat to a 180 0r 195, to see if that will make a difference, as it should keep the coolant in the rad longer.

What thermostat do you have in there?

codfish

Unfortunately, I have experienced your exact some problem, times 2. It took a year for me to figure it out. I could not keep it cool. It was a brand new short block I bought when Mopar was selling off their surplus stuff in the early 80's for cheap. Later, a friend had the same problem that we could not fix. He bought the 440 block from wrecking yard out of a motor home. Both of these block were 77 or 78 blocks. Not many knew about this problem and there was no Moparts to ask. Both of these motors had 906 heads on them. I did some research and found that later motor home blocks had extra cooling holes on the surface of the block that mated with two holes in the head that were close to the spark plug. The holes met above the spark plug and help cool it. The heads are regular 452 but are machined different. They have the extra holes to mate the block and use the smaller tapered spark plug the the Chevy's do. We changed the block on my buds and fixed the problem. I found a motor home block that had a freeze crack and bought it for the heads so I finally have a complete MH motor now. That is why I know what the heads look like. My Dad almost bought a 78 MH for the deer lease and when we drove it, it got hot very quickly. I pulled the bonnet and you guessed it, one MH head and the other a freshly painted 906. I told him what the deal was and he said," no wonder it takes two different spark plug for each side." I do not know how to tell a MH block without looking at the surface where the head bolts to. I still have it at the shop, but it has the heads already installed.

Down here in Florida I'm not running a thermostat. What temperature thermostat should I use, and how will it help me?

You can go here www.moparchat.com then scroll down to & click on circle track chat & peruse Sanborns cooling mods(it'll take several hours)that are in a stickey at the top of the page which will work for BB & SB & will enable you to do this(extra cooling holes) mod(& better) to any block/heads.

Hey kimber I installed a 440 in 66 charger heated up the same way, alot of people told me the same thing that 440's run hot! I took off the bumper filler and put in a 160 degree thermostat and that helped alot 15 degree easy, however i have jet coated headers that throw off heat like crazy the motor ran cool at crusing but i open the hood and man i could not touch the radiator support for the life of me. I thought about a scoop? but didnt want to ruin the stock look i bought header wrap on ebay but have not installed yet and i am positive that will even make a bigger difference. good luck.

use a 190/195 stat along with a good fan and shroud. A stat will not cause your engine to heat unless it is faulty. It can only control temperatures up to the stat rating, not above it.

Thanks for the info. I'll put a thermostat in. What temperature should I get, 160,or 180.

My vote ...a 180 or 195.

Do you have the distributor vacuum advance hooked up?

This will provide more advance when the engine is NOT under load, which will help it run cooler in traffic somewhat.

I am surpirised you're not running HOTTER with only a 10-12" fan and an electric water pump.

A better fan and shroud should get you the additional cooling you seek. Even with the electric pump.