Noticed a small crack / hole in the number 3 header tube 4-5 inches down the tube from where it bolts to the head. You can feel a puff of air as the motor is running. Question, what is a easy way to fix this?. Does the header need to be removed from the car? Or can it be "welded up" on the car. It looks like it's pretty easily accessible. These are TTI headers that have been "coated". Not too concerned about overall cosmetic affect. Not sure how old the headers are ,,, I would guess about 10 plus years.
Not sure how it happened unless it got beat up a little last time I had to change the starter which is always a PITA
Thanks
Doug

Doug if you or the guy doing the welding it can be
done on the car... but the coating needs to be ground
off in that area.... but its much easier if they are
off the car

If there is a hole, It may be time for new headers. If they're thin enough to get a hole, they may be to thin to save. 10 years is a nice life span(depending on climate)

Thanks Mike,,,,,,

Trendz,,,I was wondering if I should replace them as well

Is there anything I can wrap them with to finish the season ?? Or is this a bad idea ? Don't want a problem eg fire, etc.

Usually its the outside of the first bend that burns
threw first... give that area a good push with your thumb
to see if the metal bends or bust thru... if t does just
buy a new set of headers... there comes a point that you
just cant save them... that area that needs to be fixed is
a strange area to burn thru first(if its a straight)

Doug since you just want to finish the season... weld it up and
take your chances that it wont burn thru in some other place

If you have a shot at welding in place be sure nothing goes into your port if you burn through.

Thanks Ozy

Mike,,,you are spot on,,,,it's right at the bend on the outside portion,,,,of the number 3 tube,,,,

I think I will replace them,,,this was something I hadn't seen before,,,,

Thanks everyone for the help

Doug.

Probably thin there, as cracks from vibration normally occur at the header flange.

I have found that when I start getting cracks/holes I can weld them up a few times but they are done. Once they start the holes continue because the heat cycles killed the metal.

The location his burnt thru is the hot zone in the tubes
and the force of the flow going into the turn is the first
area to burn thru... that whole area will be thin so when
you start to patch it that hole WILL grow due to being thin
and burning thru.. I have fixed some headers that had only a
1/2" hole in it but by the time I was done I had a 2" long
patch on it due to it being paper thin

Buy a stainless steel band clamp and place that over tube problem solved I had one on a cat conv for close to 12 years and it still looked good. You did say you did not care about looks ?

Thx Paul,,,,,
That might be a good option while I'm waiting on a new set of headers,,,,,might get me thru the rest of the season,,,,,,

Update header off. Looks to have crack adjacent to where tube was dented for plug clearance.

Fixable ???

Doug... that metal got hardened and brittle..
is it fixable.. sure .. I'd weld it up.. but
be prepared for cracks elsewhere... but I do
the work myself so I put up with more BS than
most.... any welder can fix that

Thanks Mike, I have a good friend with very good welding skills. Going to take it out to him next week and see what he thinks.
I sent him a picture, he thinks he might be able to cut that section out and repair it. Will keep you posted

Doug... its up to him...but being that your just trying to
get through the season.. I wouldnt even cut it out.. just
weld it up... the most I would do is drill a 1/8" hole at
the end of each crack and weld it up

Dang Doug sorry to see that. Its been so long but i bought those headers brand new to go with the 440 that was in the car when you bought it from me. I think i got the headers from mancini racing. Are you going back with a new set of the TTI or are you going to try a different brand?

I've fixed cracks like that at the track with a torch and coat hanger rod. A better fix is a brazing rod. Plenty of metal left there.