Hi all.
I am in works to buy a 42 special delux for 2500...
There's no rust. Car looks pretty solid. All straight. Haven't seen much about this model or year. Anyone know if that's a decent deal? Car doesn't run but he said it did when he parked it 8ish years ago. Looks to have original flat head six. All interior is there. All trim.
Still 6 volt

He did say it needs a new master cylinder and wheel cylinders for brakes. As well as all new tires. Hasn't been driven in 8 years.

Here are some pics... Its dusty.. not rusty

42s are rare because of the production stoppage to support the war effort. The car was probably an old military vehicle. Post some pictures when you can.

Aloha!
A 1942 is pretty rare due to production halting due to the Dec. 7th 1941 issues...
http://www.allpar.com/old/wartime.html
http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2005/11/01/hmn_feature4.html

pictures
http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&am...sa=N&tab=wi

EDIT: That's a pretty darn good price, they seem to start there and go up they are low supply, but also not very high demand.
You can find out more about the post war cars (which are very similar) on the P-15 page here
http://www.merc583.addr.com/mopar/index.html


Good luck with it!

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Pretty sweet...and suicide rear doors too. How much more could you ask for?

I could ask for the parts needed to make it run

That's in great shape!
What are you going to need to get it running?
Tune-up stuff should be pretty easy, and fluids are normal.
Brake stuff may take a bit longer, but fairly easy to find. Check the links I posted.
Find out how long it's been sitting; you want to wake it up without causing any damage. If you have to drop the gas tank to clean it, it's better than filling it first. You also don't want to loosen up all the junk in the lines just to push it into the carb. There is a water distribution tube that goes inside the block's coolant passages. Better to check it before you get it hot. It would probably be a good idea to prelube it and rotate it by hand with fresh oil before just hitting the starter.
Another issue with the older cars mentioned on the P-15 site is wiring. There is only one fuse for the whole car (headlight circuit). Better to inspect all the wiring before installing that new 6V battery. This is also a 6 volt positive ground vehicle, so don't go jumping it with a 12V negative ground car, unless you follow the instructions very carefully. Good luck waking the slumbering Mopar!

Man, that is one sweet looking ride! I'm not real into 4 doors, buy I could go for that one.

Being a hot rodder, I would have to update that to disc brakes with an updated master, a more modern rear axle, and add a bit more power to the flathead 6. I'd keep the original parts, for who ever might own it after me, but I want good brakes and a bit more power. Add in some radial tires and cruise that thing for ever. (well, OK for 4 or 5 years until I got tired of it. ) Gene

Thanks for all the links. Much appreciated. He said the brakes were grabbing. And that I should replace the cylinders. I did put the drums back on today. Filled the tires with air and put her back on the ground for the first time in eight years yay. Hopefully tomorrow I will be getting aaa to tow her home.
Then I can start documenting and clean her up. I'll post pics of eeverything for those who care.

You should see the engine bay.

You need to buy the car. If you dont buy it, then you will have to change your screen name.

i stock distributor cap,rotor,points, condenser, should have wheel cylinder rebuilt kits, might have brake master cylinder rebuild kit,,,,

I think it needs a clutch.... Any ideas?

Go over to the P-15 site mentioned and check the suppliers and how they rate. Why do you think the clutch is bad? If there is a way to measure the old one in place, I'd check that first.
It's not a huge job to replace, but often it will snowball before you ever get to drive the car.
You decide to do the trans and rear end seals, the driveshaft yokes, the E brake shoes (on the end of the trans), suddenly you have a dozen parts to research, find and pay for.

Ask the guy here who has the ignition parts too. He deals with this stuff and may have it or know a good supplier.

Not that I am really thinking about it.. but... How hard do you think it might be to drop in a 440 in this thing?

Im thinking much later down the road... if/when it needs a rebuild and there are no moparts for the engine....

This guy over on the HAMB has a great blog of his build.
You are better off going small block, as he shows.
I'd suggest at least try to get the car running in it's current stock condition.

http://shadowmtkustomz.blogspot.com/

Can't believe finding a clutch would be a big deal, there are still a lot of the 40s Mopars out there that most likely used the same clutch.
Check www.robertsmotorparts.com and might be worth checking your local NAPA store. In a worst case deal, you can probably get your clutch relined.

Personally, I'd get it running and see if there really is a problem. Maybe its just out of adjustment? Gene

Bought the car.

Its at home...

Bought a new 6 volt battery...

Some Marvel Mystery Oil.. Gonna add a small amount to the combustion chambers before I try to hand crank it over...

Bought new oil.. Quaker State 20-50... trying to find some place on this rock that sells a new oil filter... if not.. I guess I will go buy some panty hose...

Bought some Lucas Oil thingy..

And some more polishing compound.. trying to shine up her rear end a bit...

You done good

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Bought fuel.. Bought starting fluid... checked plugs... checked wires... checked carb...

Surprisingly enough the previous owner drained the fuel so the carb wasnt gummy.. all internals of the carb looked pretty.... YAY...

The points... looked... ok... but didnt seem to have any spark at the plugs... sanded the points down a little.. seem to help a bit... She ALMOST fired up.. but for some reason, didnt... waited a little bit, tried again... but now she doesnt even begin to almost start... odd...

On top of that...

I think the water pump is now leaking...


I dont know if the valves were hardened.. not sure if I should use lead additive.... I put in 92 octane.

Sorry im all over the place.. Im tired

And sad hahaha

Here is another 42.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325481

As far as getting it running, relax, step back and let the car set the pace. We've all been there, wanting to get it running ASAP. The car has waited years, you can wait for another day.

Did you change the oil? Did you turn the engine over and/or prime the motor? Any fresh oil in the pan is going to take a while to reach the bearings, and you don't want the engine to start until it has fresh oil on theose close tolerance surfaces.



1. make sure the battery is charged. 6 Volts don't like long periods of cranking.
2. make sure the carb has fuel and is not leaking/flooding. This will ruin your day.
3. make sure you have spark. You mentioned that you saw some. Clean all connections, like where the spark plugs seat, the (positive) grounds, and the negative connections.

Wait another day?


WAIT ANOTHER DAY?!!!

I suppose.


I changed the oil.

Poured a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and let it sit overnight..

Popped the top off the carb, just to see if any varnish was in the bowl.. it was shiny clean.. as were all the parts in the carb. Then added fuel to the bowl.

Brand new battery. Alas its dead now I think... And no 6 volt charger

Im going to buy new points and condenser and spark plugs in the morning.. gonna see if that helps.

So... I was bored...

she's aliiiiive!!!!


Apparently the gas tank was clogged real bad. No fuels was getting to the pump.
But the fuel pump works quite well.

After a few minutes of nice white smoke from the Marvel and gas she starts to clear up and purrs like a kitten.

I'm so happy.

And then a neighbor down the street apparently has some nice old cars. He drove by in a 28 Hudson. Talked to me for quite a while. He also has a concours winning MG 1949. And a 1907 model M ford.

Glad to hear it's alive!

Nice to hear that another car guy has met up too.
Drive it a bit to get the trans and rear lubes warm, and see if you can change them too, after making sure the seals aren't bad. Fresh fluids will make those components purr too.