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suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. #189732
01/10/09 06:36 PM
01/10/09 06:36 PM
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Andrewh Offline OP
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So having only owned one-leggers, I have never bothered to take a rear apart.
I had always assumed this was a suregrip since both wheels spin in the same direction.

Took it apart today, a 742 based on the numbers on the side.

Can you tell by looking at it if it is a sure grip?




You can't see through the center where the axles go. There is some shiny disk there. I tried to poke it out, but not very hard, and it did not move.

Are these gear marks normal?

You can feel them in the metal. It isn't just oil or grease.

And finally, you can only read about half these numbers on the ring, any idea what they mean, or were supposed to mean?




Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Andrewh] #189733
01/10/09 06:39 PM
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Cone style sure grip, pinion came loose & got pulled into the carrier...

Someone put it together cause 742 never came with a cone style S/G


The gear marks won't hurt anything but cone style S/G are chewwing on metal from say one...

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Andrewh] #189734
01/10/09 06:40 PM
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yes thats an Auburn cone type unit.

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #189735
01/10/09 06:46 PM
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Thanks for the info.
Makes sense. the car wasn't supposed to have one based on the build sheet.

That's the one you can't rebuild?

Is there something to check to see if it is still chewing on it? Or what do I need to fix.

No sparkly metal in the oil, so I don't think it is tearing into it much if it is.

Last edited by Andrewh; 01/10/09 06:46 PM.
Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Andrewh] #189736
01/10/09 06:50 PM
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If you really feel the need to know a complete teardown & measure the cone & it's cavity would be the best approach..Short of that you can measure the torque required to make it slip...Or bolt it in &

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Andrewh] #189737
01/10/09 06:53 PM
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Well, given thats its in a 742 case (uses shims, not a crush sleave) my guess is that the problem causing the pinion to contact the diff has been cured. Definately make sure the pinion nut is TIGHT though.

You could check for clearance by placing a piece if duct tape around the diff (over the pinion marks) and rotate to ensure the tape is not contacted.

Most all 742's got clutch type SG's (which that definately is Not) but I think in late 69? some got cones. Dr.Diff will know.

What year car?
They are not rebuildable in the normal sense but you can mill a little off the cone faces and shim the backside and thereby get a 2nd life out of them.

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: 1_WILD_RT] #189738
01/10/09 06:55 PM
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Lol, it was in my fury.
I parted out the car about 3 years ago and just now got to taking the rear apart.

It seemed to work fine, but I kept hearing a clicking noise, so was afraid it was hurt.

I plan on putting it in my 65 coronet. But that isn't moving for a while.

1_WILD_RT - and did you mean from day one above instead of say one?

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Andrewh] #189739
01/10/09 06:58 PM
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I pulled it out of a 68 sport fury vert.
Owned it for about 4 years maybe a bit longer. Parted out the car and kept the rear because I figured it would cost me way more to buy a sg later.
I know it didn't come with the car. The build sheet didn't show one. Plus the gears are off since the speedo was about 10mph or more off depending on how fast you went.

I will try to remember the tape trick when I pull it out again. Wrapped it up in trash bags and rags to keep the stink down in the garage.

Last edited by Andrewh; 01/10/09 06:59 PM.
Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Andrewh] #189740
01/10/09 07:00 PM
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Quote:

Lol, it was in my fury.
I parted out the car about 3 years ago and just now got to taking the rear apart.

It seemed to work fine, but I kept hearing a clicking noise, so was afraid it was hurt.





Based on that I would say the pinion to diff case clearance problem has NOT been rectified.

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #189741
01/10/09 07:04 PM
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so this would normally have come in a 489 case?
Or do I look up the 742 case in a shop manual to fix this?

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Andrewh] #189742
01/10/09 07:08 PM
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For ring and pinion work you would reference the 742 case info, except that the carrier bearings are specific to the cone type unit, but if you're not replacing them dont worry (don't mix them up from side to side tough)

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #189743
01/10/09 07:12 PM
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Thanks. I will check my shop manual and see.

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Andrewh] #189744
01/10/09 07:14 PM
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Quote:



1_WILD_RT - and did you mean from day one above instead of say one?




Day Say Hay what ever fits

Yeah day sounds vetter...Kidding Better

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #189745
01/12/09 10:43 AM
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Quote:

yes thats an Auburn cone type unit.




No , the cone type used in mopars in that era were sourced from BORG WARNER

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Pacnorthcuda] #189746
01/12/09 10:50 AM
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Quote:

Well, given thats its in a 742 case (uses shims, not a crush sleave) my guess is that the problem causing the pinion to contact the diff has been cured. Definately make sure the pinion nut is TIGHT though.

You could check for clearance by placing a piece if duct tape around the diff (over the pinion marks) and rotate to ensure the tape is not contacted.

Most all 742's got clutch type SG's (which that definately is Not) but I think in late 69? some got cones. Dr.Diff will know.

What year car?
They are not rebuildable in the normal sense but you can mill a little off the cone faces and shim the backside and thereby get a 2nd life out of them.




I would guess that the pinion marks on it happened in the possible 489 it came out of after screwed with the yoke .

No , ALL 742's with sure grip got the spicer clutch type , 68 was the last year of the 742 , I think you are confusing the 742 and the 741 as 741 production went till the end of the 8 3/4 era and they got the cone type (garbage) if sure grip equipped .

as far as machining the cones , you need to add shims between the cone and the spider gears to get the backlash back to where it should be , as the cones recess, from grinding itself to pieces everytime the car TURNS .

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: Andrewh] #189747
01/12/09 10:54 AM
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Quote:



It seemed to work fine, but I kept hearing a clicking noise, so was afraid it was hurt.






That tells me you should tear it apart and check it , when they STOP WORKING PROPERLY and the oil is full of metal chips one of the floating spiders eventually seizes to the pinion shaft .

Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: JohnRR] #189748
01/12/09 11:26 AM
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by the half #s there it looks to be 3.23 and a JAN-31-67 yr on the ring gear

check the back lash and then slam it and

that shiny thing is the block that the axles push on when setting axle end play

some have buttons that will come out others are a cross shaft held in by the pin the spider gears ride on

take 2 axle and stuff in it on the bench and have a buddy try and spin it while you try to spin it in the opposite direction

if you can slip it by hand...it pretty much done

the cones bottom out in the case and start chewing metal then feeds it to the bearings

straight line they will still pull together..but get it in a bind and it will one leg

you can take it a part and machine the cones and add some shims to it to get some more life out of it but it not supposed to be rebuilt

you want about .020 clearance on the spider gears IIRC

seems I shaved .060 off the cones and added .040 back with washers to get the spider gears at .20

some one on the board was selling the stainless steel washers for this also IIRC


Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 01/12/09 11:32 AM.
Re: suregrip questions. Just pulled one out I think. [Re: scratchnfotraction] #189749
01/12/09 01:55 PM
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With both tires on the ground with the rear out of the car, you can stop one side and swing the rear.
If you roll one side, both sides roll.

With it in the air, with the tires on, you can force both sides to spin in opposite directions, but it takes a bit of effort. I don't think I could get enough leverage with just the axle ends.

Thanks for the info though.







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