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Whatever paint you use, don't use a spray can, use a brush to push it into the pores. And let it dry a week at least before putting it into service.

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I use to not dry the block with a heat gun, that would make the rustoleum dry slower in the winter than in the summer in the Mojave desert in the summer with the air conditioner off in my engine room. Once I started drying the block out with heat the paint would be dry within two to three hours, if the block was still warm when I started painting it

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1) Eastwoods version IS Glyptol, there is no difference other than Eastwood wacks you a small fortune for it. It can be bought elsewhere much cheaper.

2) As mentioned by everyone, clean...clean..clean is the key. I use a lot of it and as long as you spend the time cleaning it, it works fine. I too like to heat the block. I use a radiant propane heater for final preparation and it works well. After the Glyptol has dried for a while, I bake it on. Works much better. I have never used the Rustoleum, some seem to like it. I simply know the GE Glyptol has stood the test of time for me. Again, I spend a fair amount of time prepping.

3) The Glyptol absolutley aids in drain back. I dont think its a life or death situation, but there is no doubt that oil can drain back faster off its surface. Again, thats why I bake it, its glossier that way. The biggest advantage is sealing up the metal. Cast iron bleeds crap out of it constantly, so when its sealed, the engines stay much cleaner. I do it so that when engines come in for freshening, they are so much easier to clean in between rebuilds. A quick jet wash and the usual hand wash afterwards and they are set. No flash rusting, no mess, just blow them dry.

4) I disagree with the " do not use spray can" theory. I have used the Glyptol spray cans in many applications, ( not just for sealing up blocks, it has many other functional uses in the engine). Glptol actually makes 3 different formualtions of their products. Typically you'll only find one available from "retail". There are other mixes for specific applications as well.


Everyone has their own take on this, another Moparts topic that will get many "opinions"

I do what works for me. The main thing is the block/heads have to be clean and dry, and DONT be in a hurry.

My

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Well put..

Here is my take on it. I don't do it. Not because I think the benefit isn't there, but I had an experience some time back with a Chevrolet motor and since then haven't had the desire to do it.

This particular motor(race BBC) was built by a reputable shop and had come to me for oil pressure problems. When I took it apart, it was clear what the issue was. The paint used peeled off in chunks, blocking the oil pump pickup screen. The stuff was stringy and tacky and made a huge mess. Frankly I was surprised oil drained out of the pan as it was all over the bottom of the pan. That was many years ago and I have been gun shy about it since then. My feeling is that even if you do everything right, I suppose there is still a chance that the product itself can be defective. So I just didn't wnat to take the chance. I do however spend a lot of time with, block prep via mechanical means(polishing/ deburring) and drainback and oil control as I believe that it is an essential part of any performance engine build.



MB