Heres the #4 main/cap pictures Jerry K. asked for.

another

I totally understand your point,but thats kind-of a D--k comment.
Am I to undertstand I drive a car to work with rust on it not realizing they sell rust-free ones?
WHO races wore-out junk if they can afford new stuff?

"Just buy a new one"
Sorry,,,that just kinda chaps my a--z

What the hell is a P car block.... I've hear of P blocks
(performance) but never heard of P car blocks

You must have been running some HIGH octane fuel for 31*

Why is that a d&^k comment and why does it chap your azz. He wasn't trying to be cute, only stating absolute facts. You are making a good bit more power than a P (passenger) car block was ever intended to make, not to mention they are all nearly 40 years old and have been through no telling what, BEFORE you ever get hands on it to make a race car motor out of it. It may have had the hell beat out of it long before you ever saw it. His point is and we all keep talking about it.........chances are VERY good, that if you build what you had, you will likely get similar results. SO, options are, buy a better block, or lower the potential of that happening again, by reducing stress on the factory block, which generally means reducing the power level.

I am sure you already know what you SHOULD do, so no need to get upset when somebody gives you that advice, because it's not what you want to hear. You obviously have the option to use a stock block again, all he is saying is don't be surprised when you break another one. And how many stock block motors does one build, before the good block would have been cheaper in the long run

I have made over 1000hp on stock blocks before and have broken several as well, but that was a long time ago, when choices were VERY limited. Knowing what I know NOW and the results I have personally had, my stock block builds will be limited to not much more than warmed over street/strip stuff. I just don't care to invest the money, time and effort into something I can't depend on. Don't matter if a 100 guys come on here and say how their so and so Hp stock block motor has been living for a 100 years. That is not MY experience and now, obviously not yours either

Ive got a P Block, Im thinking production block. Yep, got a few of those.


Edit, yep or Passenger car block, whichever he means.

The BIG thing about blocks from the way back years is the NICKLE
content... the stuff we ran back years ago was like jello... look
at the ring ridge you use to have.. you could never pull a piston
without a ridge reamer... now with the high nickle blocks I dont
even own a ridge reamer any more... they havent changed the design
just what they make them out of
EDIT
Thats for the explanation on the P... never thought about
that... just the P for the performance aspect

That's all good, and I agree! But, aftermarket blocks for us mopar guys are not just sitting on part supply shelves. Plus their are not many choices.

Sometimes it comes down to availability and reasonable cost.....

this for me sums up the main issues .
I am about to start a 440/505 stroker build aiming for 600/625FWHP for my street/strip daily driver . It's even tougher for block choices here in Oz .

Tex

We all understand that and that is part of the dilemma of being a Mopar guy........but you drop several thousand prepping a stock block with the machine work, caps, girdles, whatever your bandaids are to fix it and it still cracks within a couple hundred passes or less. It's all up to each individual whether they are willing to gamble or not. Some last, many don't

I sent madscientist a PM.
My responce was out of line,I`m a bit sore about the situation.
My bad

Just curious, how was the engine-trans supported? Especially with a manual trans. I would say a lot of external forces being applied to this engine to go along with the internal ones. Bob Glidden wouldn't use a engine stand to build his engines because it would stress it differently then the machining was done. He built them vertically setting on the flywheel, but heck, what did he know about engines. One thing I would do on the next block is have it stress relived in an oven since you don't know how many cycles it's been through.

I am surprised more guys don't look into center weighted cranks. They will reduce stress on a stock block, (a lot)and that combined with a low deck 400 block and a light rotating assembly ought to really live well, within reason. Add a good tune and keep the revs down would be the way I go if I couldn't afford to go with an aftermarket block.

Just what I was going to say.

People get all excited about external balancing an engine, yet any V8 without center counterweights is balancing the inner four cylinders externally, as the balance is mostly in the outer four.

I bet we'd be amazed at the bending stresses on the crankshafts.

R.

I can tell you this for a fact......Donovan aluminum block 738 with a Bryant billet crank, ATI damper and the crank sensor set at a .045 gap will flex the crank snout enough to touch the trigger wheel and kill the motor on the chassis dyno.......LOL!!! Did it last week twice before I found it.....LOL!!!.......And NO, there is no runout on the trigger wheel causing it. It just moves that much and that is WITHOUT the nitrous activated

No apology required.

Just wish there was a way to make it better, other than me dipping into my vast fortune, casting my own blocks, and selling them at a loss so we could get the MoPar car count up



















That would assume several things...the first being my vast fortune.................

So...are you guys saying that my aluminum main capped 511" CNC Victor motor isn't going to live with the 200 shot?

Should we be starting a pool? '78 Cordoba block, Jerry's caps, no fill.

Nope. We are saying you are asking to break a block in relatively few runs.

What kind of power and rpm are you planning... dont get
crazy on the timing