I'm need a flat solid cam for my 340, the hydraulic in it now is bad. This is the motor I built for my Dart in 03 and replaced it with a 408 in 09. I bagged the short block and put it on a shelf.

Over the winter I pulled the 408 to freshen it and found some odd cam and main bearing wear and the flat solid cam was on it's way out. I bought a 395" R1, Indy head motor, sold the rotating assembly and am gathering parts for a 434" build.

So..........I thought I'd bring the 340 out of moth balls, put the heads and intake back on, check the bearings and run the pi$$ out of it until I have the new motor built. Wrong! While looking it over today before mounting it on the engine stand I noticed some pitting on the nose of one of the lobes. After closer inspection there is another lobe showing the same, so this cam was on it's way out too. Both cams were from the same company and had been ran for about five years.

I need another cam. Who do you guys recommend?

I have always called Dwayne Porter, and had him spec and order a cam for me. He is the man

Racer Brown. Call Jim at 1-410-866-7660. Hope his business didn't get burned down as he is in Baltimore MD. ST-21 for street/strip or STX-21 for a car w/some compression, converter, and gear. Jim will get you set up with a perfect cam for your combo.

Did you mic that cam to be sure it is bad? How did the lifter look? I have had good luck with Hughes cams over the years.

I haven't miced the cam. The 340 cam has two lobes that have pitting on the nose of the cam. one of the lobes shows wear all the way across the lobe with pits that will catch you fingernail. The bottom of that lifter looks to have been hit with a tiny needle scaler. The other lobe is just starting to pit. The rest of the lifters and lobes look perfect.

The 408 had EDM lifters in it and has several lobes and lifters as I described above.

Bullet Cams

I have always called Dwayne Porter, and had him spec and order a cam for me. He is the man

Racer Brown. Call Jim at 1-410-866-7660. Hope his business didn't get burned down as he is in Baltimore MD. ST-21 for street/strip or STX-21 for a car w/some compression, converter, and gear. Jim will get you set up with a perfect cam for your combo.

What ever cam you go with I would dump the rottela in favor of dedicated race
Oil like VR1 or Brad Penn just to name a couple.

Racer Brown. Call Jim at 1-410-866-7660. Hope his business didn't get burned down as he is in Baltimore MD. ST-21 for street/strip or STX-21 for a car w/some compression, converter, and gear. Jim will get you set up with a perfect cam for your combo.

I like Jim at RB and ran pretty well w/ an ST-21 in my 440. But those are some OLD grinds, and cam lobes have evolved dramatically in the decades since those masters were hand-designed.

The biggest difference, IMO, is valve train stability at high(er) RPM. When I dynoed three different cams (two UltraDyne .904" SFT and the ST-21), the UltraDynes would rev cleanly to about 6800, even though that was well past the HP peak. The Racer Brown, on the other hand, went into total valve train crash about 6400-6500. On the the track, if I was running my 28" tall tires insted of my 29", the shorter tires would put the engine right up into the valve float at peak RPM and the car would just freakin' stop accelerating. If I ran the 29" tires, the taller tires kept the RPM down enough to keep from having to rev that high and it would pull about 2 MPH more.

This was using ported OEM heads w/ 3/8"-stem 2.14" x 1.81" valves and valve springs having about 140#s closed and 380# open pressure, so it wasn't a lack of spring load. The dynamics are simply crude in comparison by virtue of how long ago they were designed.

I think the question was about small block cams. Funny how we have SEVERAL small blocks on this site running 9's with bargain basement heads with Jim's (Racer Brown) cams.