First step is to separate out the body bolts, because these don't need much restoration since the heads will be painted and the part below the heads is unseen. These are the bolts (or machine screws with captive washers) that bolted the body together at the time of factory painting, such as the fender bolts, door hinge bolts, hood hinge bolts, trunk hinge bolts, battery tray bolts, upper and lower grille sheet metal, and the painted sheet metal behind the grille to which the hood latch attaches. Depending on how the rust was removed, these are easy to ID because they usually still have paint on the heads. Simply coat these with a phosphoric acid such as Rust Cure (http://www.rust-cure.com/#!page4/cfvg) and wipe off. Do this 2 times one week apart, and these are finished and ready to paint - easy and cheap.
About 1/3 of all fasteners are phosphated or Parkerized, including the body bolts above. (But there is no need to re-phosphate the body bolts since they are going to be painted anyway, unless you are a purist.) This is the gun metal gray-black finish seen on military firearms. You can DIY with gunsmithing kits from any gun store or online. I use an electric stainless skillet to attain 190-200 degrees steady. The process is mostly just clean and dip in a heated chemical. The hardest part is temperature control, so electrical heat is best. A stainless dip pot inside another pot of water like a double boiler helps with temperature control. You may run across the term "phosphated and oiled". Supposedly the oil is absorbed into the phosphate coating, and the excess oil can be wiped off after a soak time. Because the oil is messy I prefer to just wax.
Another 1/3 of fasteners are silver colored or "clear" zinc or cadmium plated. Most people restore all of these with new zinc plating and don't bother with cadmium. Original cadmium plating is often hard to ID from original zinc plating, another reason to go zinc. I don't know about the '65 model year, but my '69 car had little identifiable cad plating. Clear zinc plated parts are cleaned, plated with zinc about 0.0001" thick, and dipped in a blue chromate solution. The blue color is almost unseen afterwards and most people don't notice any blue. But you can spot the blue on hardware store fasteners if you look hard enough while thinking blue. The purpose of the chromate is to retard corrosion of the zinc. Most zinc plated fasteners are the Phillips head tapping screws.
Less than 10% of fasteners have yellow rainbow colored zinc or cadmium plating. These items are cleaned, plated, then dipped in yellow chromate. Again, most people are re-plating with zinc and not using cad. But I will say that yellow chromated cad can be eye popping compared to yellow chromated zinc. I have an NOS heater valve that is yellow cad. It was spectacular out of the box, but when I waxed it, some of the shine went away. Now it only looks slightly better than yellow zinc.
The remainder of your fasteners are plain or bare, chrome plated, stainless, chrome plated stainless, or zinc/cad plated with another color of chromate, mostly black, sometimes brown, green, and rarely red.
Tapping screws, the sheet metal screws usually clear zinc plated with a Phillips head, were originally generic. You can replate them or buy new generic ones form the hardware store. The most common is #8-18 x 3/8 with 0.31" dia Phillips head.
