ER70 dash 2 or dash 6 is the silicon level in the filler, more silicon is used for MIG welding because it's a dirtier process. Either TIG or MIG should be on clean bright metal, no mill scale , no oil or grease. But TIG really needs it.

Chassis work with a 110v TIG is probably reasonable, assuming you're not going to be welding .120 wall DOM or similar. .083 wall 4130 should be doable with 100A output or so, which is no problem on 110/115v current with a 20A breaker, possibly even on a 15A breaker. 110v MIG is best for sheet metal or skillful and experienced welders, running joints vertical uphill, preheated and/or beveled. S/F....Ken M

Ordered some new gas and ER70 rod from Airgas. Found out they were cheaper than E bag, anyway. $2/lb. for 10 lbs. They're delivering tomorrow!

Didn't realize you where from Charlotte, i was born there and still have relatives there, it should be very easy to find anything you need in that city.

Kenny...I'd think hard about this. Being that your car is an original plum crazy V code 4 speed car, there are people out there who'd restore it...even from it's present condition. There's been way worse restored back to stock. You could possibly sell the car, buy another cuda (like a 318 car), and cut it up for a tube chassis...might be $$$$ ahead.
Unless of course you have a strong sentimental tie to it.

Hey Chip,
You know how much I hate thinking. Makes my head hurt. I guess I'd have to weigh my options. It's already is back halved with a 12 point and glass bolt ons.

I did not bother reading all of the replies but here is my .02. It depends on what your goal with the car is. If you want it to be as light as possible and able to certify quicker than 7.50 then there is only one choice and that is Moly. If you never plan on going faster than 7.50, and do not care about a few extra pounds but want a car that you can build and never worry about fatigue then mild steel is the way to go, and much cheaper to boot. However if resale is something you want to consider moly cars generally fetch more money for whatever reason. Although my last mild car sold for a good deal of $$$$ and I had a hard time giving away my last moly car

It's not to far gone to be returned to stock by someone that wants a real plum crazy '70 V code 4 speed super track pack car. Do you happen to still have the fender tag? If so, that's a big plus. It might not be worth it money wise, but I'd put a feeler ad out and see if it draws any interest.

A '72-'74 model 318 barracuda would be pretty cheap to get into since you're wanting to build a full tube car.

Hey, yours is a 318 car, isn't it? I know you don't have the original engine in it, so I'll take it off your hands for a grand.

I built my car out of moly.
That's the only way to fly.
How ever long you think it will take, double it then add a few years lol it took me 6 years or so

And however much you think it will cost, double that and add a few thousand.

Like this:

Moly, Moly, Moly! And don't look back!

Now it is back together:

#2

I'm still tossing it over. Right now, just going to install a set of Strange struts. Biginch; car came out real nice, and I like the way you cut it to install the cage.