I drilled a small hole in what was left of the stud and attempted to use an easy out. Big mistake. Easy out is now broken and it seems to be made of kyptonite as the drill won't even make a dent in it.........

I am thinking of using my die grinder and grinding it away if I can and then drill out the stud and re-tap or heli-coil if necessary. Anybody got any other ideas????? Somebody used thread sealer on the stud threads it seems...
TBF

Get a quality cobalt drill bit.

im betting you'll destroy it trying to get it out. good luck!

If you can get somthing strong in there like a very small allen wrench, just because of strength, well if you can get somting in it, JB weld it overnight, warm the area its in and if your lucky it will come out.....sort like welding a nut on a broken bolt....good, luck.

That sucks. There are few things tougher than getting a broken off stud with an ez-out broken off in it. Sometimes, you can have some luck if you drill a very small hole just off to the side of the ex-out. It can release the stud's hold on it and let you dig the ez-out out of there without too much damage to the surrounding area. Good luck! I had to basically grind away the stud and surrounding area on a part once, have it welded to build it back up and then machined to get it flush again.

There was this guy in town many years ago, who had a business of removing things like this. He used a machine that uses electicity to zap little bits of the metal away until there is nothing left of the ez-out. It was like an electric drill bit without the bit.

Once this is past you, buy a quality set of left-hand cobalt drill bits.

JBC, that is EDM, electrical discharge machining. Works good but used to be expensive. What is the baseplate off of?

You can probably pick up a another baseplate fairly cheap. One would probably cost less than buying bits, taps, and your time involved.

Yeah... stock baseplate from a holley 3310 carb.. I just put my pro-form main body on and needed a larger accel pump squirt so I bought the 50cc pump kit. It uses a slightly different stud to mount the pump rocker arm so of course the original one was lock-tited in and it snapped off.......
maybe I should cut my losses and just get a new baseplate, even the billet ones are not too bad pricewise.....

I am going to go out and see if i can work some magic with my small dremel die grinder..... If I mess it up I'll get just get a new baseplate..... TBF

Well.. all of the above was pretty good advice..... I did spend a few bucks but I got it fixed. I used a tungsten carbide bit in my high speed dremel grinder and it took about an hour but I was able to grind out what was left of the easy out. I had to be careful not to press to hard and overheat the bit and possibly render it useless. I did use some of my head porting lube to keep the temps down. I did use a drill and install a heli-coil repair and now the accel pump works excellent.

In the future I will be much less inclined to use an easy out and go right into the heli-coil repair. It was quick and easy and took about 15 minutes total...... piece of cake.... TBF

when you have steel in aluminum you can mig the broken stud and then weld a nut to it. I do Ford crown vic heads all the time at work. Studs will be broken 1/4" in the head. The mig will not stick to the aluminum at all. Its done in the car as well.

I have to do my 03 Dakota some day, been putting it off as its the passenger side on a 4.7.