That is why I said to measure .060" a the disc. .060" departure of the pressure plate puts the fingers at the proper height. If you don't like the engagement point with the .060" setting put a travel stop on the pedal so it doesn't go as far to the floor and readjust for the proper setting. I did this when I was bracket racing mine. I was able to get the .060" setting with way less pedal travel. This helped reaction times for me by a bunch.
Doug

Do you mean .060 between the disc, and the pressure plate when the pedal is push in?

No. How far does the throwout bearing need to go to fully disengage the clutch after contacting the clutch fingers.

I would never buy a centerforce clutch again. Had one fail on my GTX and the one on my challenger has a sticking pedal. The one on my GTX was out of balance and had to be balanced again.

I talked to some of the centerforce folks at a drag racing show in Chicago, and they said both clutches must have been installed wrong, and the mopar guys that did them are virtually idiots. They actually made that point clear, and at my expense, got some other folks standing by, to chuckle at my mishaps.

Now one guy that helped me has 2 original A990 hemi cars and max wedge cars he raced for years, and has some mopar racing titles, and never had issues with clutches, the other guy that helped me has a hemi cuda he never had issues with (other brands). If either of these guys were with me when Centerforce made their comments, I am sure he would have set them straight some.

Maybe they are a great clutch, I have only had bad luck though with them. Customer response was about as rude as it gets (atleast their rep in Chicago).

The 2 things you need to look for in setting up a Mopar clutch.

1. Clearance from the throwout bearing to the fingers. 1" of freeplay, 1/2" of freeplay or 1/4 inch at the finger. The factory spec asks for this HUGE clearance to account for disc wear. The fact is you need some clearance and the less clearance, the better. I've even chased this as close as looking at the throwout bearing with the engine running. Adjust until it spins and back off like 1/2 a turn. This will ensure clutch release earlier and less wasted pedal stroke to shift gears. I mean, unless you like the 1st inch of travel to do nothing and have to go to the carpet to shift gears like an old lady.

2. This will be okay if all the clutch linkage geometry is good but it is good to check for flywheel to disc clearance. 60thou is decent. Engagement with the pedal down half way up or higher is better. If you need to push the pedal all the way down to shift, you will prematurely load the synchronizers and it will reduce your chances of throwing quick gear shifts.

Yes

I know you're trying to answer my question, thanx, but I'm running a tremec with a full bell housing and there's no way I can measure the distance between the disc and the pressure plate. So how far does the fingers on the clutch need to be depressed to fully disengage the clutch:?

Please re-read my posts. Your answer is there.

If you cant get a CF clutch to work and/or last, there is another issue.

With a full bellhousing, just set the bearing for clearance by feeling the linkage. Similar to setting up engine lifter clearance. Adjust for no play then add a bit.

Then when you drive it. If the pedal starts to engage the clutch about half way up or higher, you're good.

I'm surprised it's not been mentioned yet but a small return spring pulling the clutch fork forward will help keep the linkage from preloading the bearing.