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Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1801341
04/11/15 10:54 PM
04/11/15 10:54 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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I heated it up, pried with a screwdriver, tried to pull it with a magnet, prayed, waved over it a few times with my magic amulet… Zero. Can't get it out. Searched for a tool go pull it with… Zero. All I see is clam shell pullers. Anyone got a picture of the correct tool?


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Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1801589
04/12/15 11:11 AM
04/12/15 11:11 AM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda Offline
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Well, there is always pulling the diff out and using a soft faced mallet to pop the pinion out the back, probably more than you want to do though.


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1801635
04/12/15 12:57 PM
04/12/15 12:57 PM
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 485
Central California
MoParFish Offline
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Central California
I'm NOT saying it's textbook correct but, I have successfully replaced pinion yokes/seals several times on different applications without replacing the crush sleeve. Pinion depth won't be affected as it is set with shim behind the rear pinion bearing. Most crush sleeves take a pretty good amount of torque to "crush". If you use a souped up snap-on gun you'll crush the sleeve further. I use a new nut or at minimum red loctite. I generally use a 1/2 drive ratchet and tighten about as tight as I can get it by hand while holding the yoke with a fabbed up tool or dare I say large chain wrench whistling, rotating the yoke as it gets tight. If once nut is tight, the yoke doesn't rotate fairly easily or is rough when rotating, then it must be redone. Not trying to mislead, just sharing another possible option and as always, this is just my twocents thumbs


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Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: MoParFish] #1801644
04/12/15 01:13 PM
04/12/15 01:13 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
R
RapidRobert Offline
Circle Track
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Lincoln Nebraska
I did not read the whole thread but if that tapered bearing needs to come out what about drilling/tapping the face of it then slide hammering it straight back out? then purchase a new one of course. work under neath it so to keep the shavings from going inward & grease the drill bit for that also


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Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: MoParFish] #1802332
04/13/15 01:02 PM
04/13/15 01:02 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,012
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
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Originally Posted By MoParFish
I'm NOT saying it's textbook correct but, I have successfully replaced pinion yokes/seals several times on different applications without replacing the crush sleeve. Pinion depth won't be affected as it is set with shim behind the rear pinion bearing. Most crush sleeves take a pretty good amount of torque to "crush". If you use a souped up snap-on gun you'll crush the sleeve further. I use a new nut or at minimum red loctite. I generally use a 1/2 drive ratchet and tighten about as tight as I can get it by hand while holding the yoke with a fabbed up tool or dare I say large chain wrench whistling, rotating the yoke as it gets tight. If once nut is tight, the yoke doesn't rotate fairly easily or is rough when rotating, then it must be redone. Not trying to mislead, just sharing another possible option and as always, this is just my twocents thumbs


This is one way to go about it, look at the torque spec for the thread pitch of the nut used and do not excee it , maybe go a little under , RED LOCTITE is your friend hear.

RabidRobert , have to ever tried to drill a bearing ??? Not and option.

SKF makes the tool you would need , but it's $$$$$$


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Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1802333
04/13/15 01:03 PM
04/13/15 01:03 PM
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U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
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Also there is no reason to pull the bearing , you can't get the crush sleeve out that way anyway.


running up my post count some more .
Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: JohnRR] #1802423
04/13/15 02:50 PM
04/13/15 02:50 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 5,102
Western Md.
skicker Offline
"The Champ"
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Joined: Jun 2005
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Western Md.
popcorn


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Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1802756
04/13/15 10:28 PM
04/13/15 10:28 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,791
Hamilton, Ontario Canada
Magnum Offline
master
Magnum  Offline
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Hamilton, Ontario Canada
Originally Posted By Big Bad Bee
but he machined .030 off the mating surfaces... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/flame.gif" alt="" />


This yoke is garbage. The mating surface is not half way through the cap. A yoke should completely contain the cap. The straps will see NO torque or load, they basically are there to keep the driveshaft from falling out.

Maybe another way for me to describe a proper yoke is. The cap is surrounded by 200 degrees of yoke and the strap provide the remaining 160 degrees.

So even with a proper yoke, bottoming out the straps is not that critical.


69 Super Bee, 93 Mustang LX, 04 Allure Super
Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: Magnum] #1803944
04/15/15 02:45 AM
04/15/15 02:45 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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Sorry guys. I got away from this post for a day. I'm really glad you guys picked it back up. I wanted to pull the bearing BECAUSE… I thought maybe, just maybe the guy that built it replaced the crush sleeve with a cone and shim setup. I think that rather I am going to go with the by gosh and by golly method and try to get it tight enough to start feeling a little drag, mark it, pull the nut, clean the bolt and nut, red Loctite it and tighten it all back up. The weird thing is that the FSM recommends at least 170 ft lbs when not replacing the crush sleeve (They also recommend marking the nut position before you remove the damn thing…) That's quite a bit of torque, considering I tighten my lugs to 100 ft lbs and that seems like a lot. I've never tried this so I guess I'll just watch the drag and try to set it up somewhat like a front break bearing. Keep the thoughts coming. I'm ordering from Doctor Diff tonight so I can get this thing done over the weekend.


I’m listening.
Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1804190
04/15/15 02:34 PM
04/15/15 02:34 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,012
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
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Originally Posted By Big Bad Bee
Sorry guys. I got away from this post for a day. I'm really glad you guys picked it back up. I wanted to pull the bearing BECAUSE… I thought maybe, just maybe the guy that built it replaced the crush sleeve with a cone and shim setup. I think that rather I am going to go with the by gosh and by golly method and try to get it tight enough to start feeling a little drag, mark it, pull the nut, clean the bolt and nut, red Loctite it and tighten it all back up. The weird thing is that the FSM recommends at least 170 ft lbs when not replacing the crush sleeve (They also recommend marking the nut position before you remove the damn thing…) That's quite a bit of torque, considering I tighten my lugs to 100 ft lbs and that seems like a lot. I've never tried this so I guess I'll just watch the drag and try to set it up somewhat like a front break bearing. Keep the thoughts coming. I'm ordering from Doctor Diff tonight so I can get this thing done over the weekend.


I wanted to say it was something that high of a torque value , it takes more than that to start crushing the sleeve.

Torque value is based on diameter and number of threads per inch , the pinion stem is double the size of a lug nut.

Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: JohnRR] #1804736
04/16/15 03:26 AM
04/16/15 03:26 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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Big Bad Bee  Offline OP
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Spokane Valley, WA
Originally Posted By JohnRR
Originally Posted By Big Bad Bee
Sorry guys. I got away from this post for a day. I'm really glad you guys picked it back up. I wanted to pull the bearing BECAUSE… I thought maybe, just maybe the guy that built it replaced the crush sleeve with a cone and shim setup. I think that rather I am going to go with the by gosh and by golly method and try to get it tight enough to start feeling a little drag, mark it, pull the nut, clean the bolt and nut, red Loctite it and tighten it all back up. The weird thing is that the FSM recommends at least 170 ft lbs when not replacing the crush sleeve (They also recommend marking the nut position before you remove the damn thing…) That's quite a bit of torque, considering I tighten my lugs to 100 ft lbs and that seems like a lot. I've never tried this so I guess I'll just watch the drag and try to set it up somewhat like a front break bearing. Keep the thoughts coming. I'm ordering from Doctor Diff tonight so I can get this thing done over the weekend.


I wanted to say it was something that high of a torque value , it takes more than that to start crushing the sleeve.

Torque value is based on diameter and number of threads per inch , the pinion stem is double the size of a lug nut.


Makes total sense. Great yet simple explanation. Thank you, john.


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Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1806670
04/19/15 02:11 AM
04/19/15 02:11 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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Spokane Valley, WA
Update! I bought a new Doctor Diff forged U bolt style yoke. Thank you Cass! This is a beautiful piece. Also got a new seal. Question. What do I use between the housing and the seal's steel mating surfaces to insure a drip free seal?


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Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: Big Bad Bee] #1808835
04/21/15 07:33 PM
04/21/15 07:33 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,012
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR Offline
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Any sealer of some sort , pick your poison.


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Re: Driveshaft U-Joint Fitment Issues [Re: JohnRR] #1809945
04/23/15 04:38 AM
04/23/15 04:38 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee Offline OP
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Big Bad Bee  Offline OP
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Spokane Valley, WA
I didn't seal the teeth but did use a little sealer on the seal. Turned out nice.


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