When converting to front coil overs, do you drill and tap the LCA pivot shaft and use a bolt and large washer to keep the LCA from sliding off the pivot?

If so, how is the LCA able to rotate (as suspension cycles) if it is firmly bolted to the K member?

THANKS

Huh, it rotates on the bushings in the k-member. The backside is where the torsion would normally install. Whack it off close to flush, drill and tap the shaft & install the washer and bolt. Duster Dave's website illustrates the process. I have done this in the past and it works just fine.

Mike Gray

Do you have access to a stock LCA to look at out of the car? If so look at it, the LCA is made up of several parts, the tapered pin that slides thru the K member is pressed into the LCA bushing, which is press into the big steel socket that the torsion bar fits into. If you remove the torsion bar the LCA still won't come out until you remove the nut and washer that holds that pin in and loosen up and remove the lower strut retaining nut and washer The torsion bars do have a really chinzy thin retaining ring in the trosion bar and trans crossmember, but it isn't intended to keep the trosion bar and LCA from moving from front to rear

I understand that. I just figured it wouldn't be good to trust a rubber bushing to keep the LCA in place with the torsion bar gone.

If I was going to convert a torsion bar car to a non torison bar front end I would probally buy a complete aftermarket K member and A arm kit or strut front end I would not rely on parts that where not designed to work with each other

I did this $hit 15 years ago.It will work fine,I've bounced my car off everything from the tree to the guardrail and has held up fine.Yes I drive on the street alot to.I run a Pro shock assembley.

lenny dont let B.R. secrets out, pork chop

Andy,I think you where the only one paying attention to me cheating and I steal could not out run you.HE.HE.