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Re: Wiring directly to the battery, how do you do it? [Re: Evil Spirit] #1774009
03/09/15 09:15 AM
03/09/15 09:15 AM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda Offline
About to go away
Supercuda  Offline
About to go away

Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Problem is that noise on the line that you hear in a speaker is not likely all the noise on the line. And that noise you cannot hear may interfere with the EFI computer. One hopes the manufacturer of your kit put in filters to deal with it.


They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
Re: Wiring directly to the battery, how do you do it? [Re: cjskotni] #1774010
03/10/15 12:33 AM
03/10/15 12:33 AM
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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denfireguy Offline
top fuel
denfireguy  Offline
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
Quote:

Quote:

The closer to the battery, the better because the battery helps filter electrical noise.




Horrible misinformation. The electrical noise would be no different anywhere on the charging circuit. The only thing that would differ would be the voltage itself as there will be small drops across various connections (i.e. bulkhead). The "shakiness" of the voltage will be no different as it's all the same circuit.

The only thing you gain from wiring on the battery (or starter relay) is pulling additional current through the dash harness (unless you have done a bypass), making the car that much more unsafe not mention making the ammeter totally unreliable.

The "noise" from radio is not necessarily from the alternator but from the ignition circuit, not the alternator. This is EMF and if present on one side of the charging circuit, will also be present at the other. If you have noise now, wiring from the battery probably won't help.

I pull my two electric fan relay loads from the alternator stud. No noise on my radio and my ammeter is dead accurate.


Sorry, if it is misinformation, it is propagated by the manufacturers of commercial two way radios such as Motorola, Harris, Tait, Yaesu, Kenwood, Bendix King, and a few others. Add to that the manufacturers of electronic sirens like Whelan, Federal Sign and Signal, Denelcor and Unitrol.


2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
Re: Wiring directly to the battery, how do you do it? [Re: denfireguy] #1774011
03/14/15 11:16 PM
03/14/15 11:16 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 517
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beepilot Offline
mopar
beepilot  Offline
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 517
I did what StrkrDart69 did . I bought one of these from http://racetronix.com/ They are in Canada but I have bought a lot from them and shipping to US is no problem, reasonable prices too. These junction blocks are priced from $10. I ran a wire down from the starter relay and sort of hid it under the battery like he said. Have multiple tie ins here.

Re: Wiring directly to the battery, how do you do it? [Re: dvw] #1774012
03/15/15 12:58 AM
03/15/15 12:58 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,379
Dandridge TN
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Dabee Offline
master
Dabee  Offline
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,379
Dandridge TN
To the OP, follow the FAST instructions to the letter. I just installed a FAST EFI on my Bee, it works great. The only deviation I did was install a relay on the pink switched power wire. I installed the relay next to the battery so I could tap into clean battery power. I did this. Because research indicated a lot of guys needed to install a capasitor in the pink switched power wire to clean up the electrical noise/voltage spikes. The switched power controls the relay. FAST claims the MSD is one of the sources for electrical noise. Also install resistor plugs if you don't already have them.

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