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What is considered to be enough HP to bend the Dana 60 ? Is this equally true for narrowed rears with the ladder bar brackets welded to the center section?
Hard for me to imagine bending this rear with the short and heavy wall truck tubes.

Mark

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Your heavy walls tubes are a help... but the distance
from the ladder bar or 4 link mounts to the end is the
important part.. thats the reason I back brace right
out to the outer bearings

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A DANA CAN BE BACK BRACED TOO, all the way to the bearing. Why is this so hard to get into someones mind. Build the ramps to the center, or to the ladder-4-link braces,which is better because you can get more of an angle, or distance from back of housing,then a link(like a 4-link bar with adjusters) then you can put preload into your BACK BRACE. Lets see you bend that. It's called triangulation, same as with your cage. Just use the same engineering with the dana and all the weakness junk goes out the window. On another note when that pinion tries to climb the ring gear in a 9, how much does that center section, which is just bolted to the flat side of the housing, bend and flex that said housing? Won't see this on a dana. This not a mopar thing but the ford rear is not the answer to all rears just the fad at the moment till something else comes along.

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Is if the pinion climbs the ring gear and flexs the housing face like you state, the ring gear will move with the pinion as it is in the third member. Just the housing would flex not the pinion. Now in a Dana 60 when this happens you move the pinion further away from ring gear. Not a good thing.

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Read what i said again, the housing will flex, didn't say anything about the pinion flexing. In our Race car applications do you think a pinion will flex in that 9 inch carrier or dana housing?

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Well since a nine inch pinion is supported in two locations and the Dana only one which leaves a longer unsupported pinion you tell me.

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Good one. Very good point.

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I run a 1.19 60' on a 8 3/4... LOTS of 1.19s so what
does that say... and dont say lucky.. it has its place
as do all the others

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What is considered to be enough HP to bend the Dana 60 ? Is this equally true for narrowed rears with the ladder bar brackets welded to the center section?
Hard for me to imagine bending this rear with the short and heavy wall truck tubes.

Mark

---

Your heavy walls tubes are a help... but the distance
from the ladder bar or 4 link mounts to the end is the
important part.. thats the reason I back brace right
out to the outer bearings

---

A DANA CAN BE BACK BRACED TOO, all the way to the bearing. Why is this so hard to get into someones mind. Build the ramps to the center, or to the ladder-4-link braces,which is better because you can get more of an angle, or distance from back of housing,then a link(like a 4-link bar with adjusters) then you can put preload into your BACK BRACE. Lets see you bend that. It's called triangulation, same as with your cage. Just use the same engineering with the dana and all the weakness junk goes out the window. On another note when that pinion tries to climb the ring gear in a 9, how much does that center section, which is just bolted to the flat side of the housing, bend and flex that said housing? Won't see this on a dana. This not a mopar thing but the ford rear is not the answer to all rears just the fad at the moment till something else comes along.

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Is if the pinion climbs the ring gear and flexs the housing face like you state, the ring gear will move with the pinion as it is in the third member. Just the housing would flex not the pinion. Now in a Dana 60 when this happens you move the pinion further away from ring gear. Not a good thing.

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Read what i said again, the housing will flex, didn't say anything about the pinion flexing. In our Race car applications do you think a pinion will flex in that 9 inch carrier or dana housing?

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Well since a nine inch pinion is supported in two locations and the Dana only one which leaves a longer unsupported pinion you tell me.

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Lets push a little farther, is it the pinion or the bearing letting it deflect. The reason precision milling machines and lathes use a tapered bronze bushing, can't have that movement. Back in the late 60s early 70S Chrysler did some testing on the dana(slow motion photography) and found the pinion actually moved into the pinion not away on the stick cars so they recommended more back lash.

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Good one. Very good point.

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I run a 1.19 60' on a 8 3/4... LOTS of 1.19s so what
does that say... and dont say lucky.. it has its place
as do all the others

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This is my thoughts... it is all about who sets them up, some guys set up and run 8.75s Dana60s, 9" and they all can last very long times, then you have other guys who at equal or lower power levels bust teeth off, caps off, break pinions... on all of them rear diffs are a black art that a few think they understand and in reality very few out of those even have a good grasp on doing it right and that is the ones that outlast the energizer bunny. Very few people know how backlash affects the life of the rear much less throw in preloads, parts selection, gear mesh patterns... I am not one of those guys, I let someone else do it for me. If I want one to put one behind a serious motor/chassis and last I will call Cass. If you have someone build a bunch of diffs for you and they break all the time it is time to swap builders not nessacarily diffs

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I run a 1.19 60' on a 8 3/4... LOTS of 1.19s so what
does that say... and dont say lucky.. it has its place
as do all the others

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.....and to think I can remember when a "performance upgrade" was grabbing a 4.10 8.75 pig out of the junkyard!

Too Funny .......But true.
This is a good thread but my vote for the Dana

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I run a 1.19 60' on a 8 3/4... LOTS of 1.19s so what
does that say... and dont say lucky.. it has its place
as do all the others

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It says your cars are fly weights. Put your rear in a heavy car going 1.20s and see how long it lasts. A 8 3/4 would probably be fine in your Rampage too.

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I know my car is lite,, that why it works... but
look at Dom.. he hasnt broke yet either... like I
said... they all have their place

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What is considered to be enough HP to bend the Dana 60 ? Is this equally true for narrowed rears with the ladder bar brackets welded to the center section?
Hard for me to imagine bending this rear with the short and heavy wall truck tubes.

Mark

---

Your heavy walls tubes are a help... but the distance
from the ladder bar or 4 link mounts to the end is the
important part.. thats the reason I back brace right
out to the outer bearings

---

A DANA CAN BE BACK BRACED TOO, all the way to the bearing. Why is this so hard to get into someones mind. Build the ramps to the center, or to the ladder-4-link braces,which is better because you can get more of an angle, or distance from back of housing,then a link(like a 4-link bar with adjusters) then you can put preload into your BACK BRACE. Lets see you bend that. It's called triangulation, same as with your cage. Just use the same engineering with the dana and all the weakness junk goes out the window. On another note when that pinion tries to climb the ring gear in a 9, how much does that center section, which is just bolted to the flat side of the housing, bend and flex that said housing? Won't see this on a dana. This not a mopar thing but the ford rear is not the answer to all rears just the fad at the moment till something else comes along.

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Is if the pinion climbs the ring gear and flexs the housing face like you state, the ring gear will move with the pinion as it is in the third member. Just the housing would flex not the pinion. Now in a Dana 60 when this happens you move the pinion further away from ring gear. Not a good thing.

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Read what i said again, the housing will flex, didn't say anything about the pinion flexing. In our Race car applications do you think a pinion will flex in that 9 inch carrier or dana housing?

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Well since a nine inch pinion is supported in two locations and the Dana only one which leaves a longer unsupported pinion you tell me.

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Lets push a little farther, is it the pinion or the bearing letting it deflect. The reason precision milling machines and lathes use a tapered bronze bushing, can't have that movement. Back in the late 60s early 70S Chrysler did some testing on the dana(slow motion photography) and found the pinion actually moved into the pinion not away on the stick cars so they recommended more back lash.

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Ok so it's the bearing on the 60. It still does matter as the nine inch has two bearings to spread the loads and handle this deflection. Now you can run the proper back lash and not worry.

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A 9" housing must be back-braced for strength, as the tubes are welded to a sheet-metal housing. I bend/straighten NON back braced (circle track) fab 9" housings in my hydraulic fixture very easily.

Because the tubes are press fit several inches deep, then welded around the circumference to a rigid center casting, a Dana 60 housing takes much more pressure to bend/straighten.

The Dana 60 pictured in this thread with Cal-Tracs and blue shocks is a perfect example of an application where a back-braced 9" will not fit and a Dana 60 is probably the best choice.

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Great thread albeit a little heated...

To the OP - a Dana would be more than enough for your application and save you a little coin.

Both rear ends have their pros n cons - guess it all depends on the application, budget etc.

I did a heap of research on both the Dana and the 9" - I went with a Dana, for a number of reasons that worked for ME.

Interestingly enough, on many forums, there are members (if you believe what they say) who have run Danas reliably with factory gears, housings, axles and carriers and have been reliably going 9s and some in the high 8s in street/strip type cars - FOR YEARS.

Somehow I don't see a factory 28-31 spine 9" doing the same - for long. Ive twisted both 28 and 31 spline 9" factory axles in a 3300b A body with a 400HP SBM

Just my experience

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I run a 1.19 60' on a 8 3/4... LOTS of 1.19s so what
does that say... and dont say lucky.. it has its place
as do all the others

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It says your cars are fly weights. Put your rear in a heavy car going 1.20s and see how long it lasts. A 8 3/4 would probably be fine in your Rampage too.

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I went with the S60 for my new build for the folowing reasons, I had one in my roadrunner 9 second car 3300# T-break bigblock launches for years on end and never a problem. Second was price.

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Nice

Also heard that the Dana WITH an Aluminum cover will NOT fit due to STOCK gas tank interference. A Body.

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I went with the S60 for my new build for the folowing reasons, I had one in my roadrunner 9 second car 3300# T-break bigblock launches for years on end and never a problem. Second was price.

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Nice

Also heard that the Dana WITH an Aluminum cover will NOT fit due to STOCK gas tank interference. A Body.

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Wow... wasn't trying to cause a major over upgrading a silly-a$$ 10-sec. .

Good info, but some of you have taken the original intent of the post and escalated it to the point where I'm wating for a Web SWAT Team to come in here and start picking off posters one at a time.

Thanks, everyone, for a truly enlightening thread!

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Na, it takes WAY more than that to invite S.W.A.T. over for dinner................LOTS! Then to survive that............. I do thank them for the blurred vision, stuttering and memory loss BUT then I think they knocked some sense into me at the same time although now I think that I`m some carb builder but that will pass.....................