How do you remove the color from small parts?

Is there any do it yourself kits for anodizing at home?

To remove anodizing, I have always used oven cleaner with lye in it...just the cheap aerosol stuff..spray it on, let work and hose off..

I just started checking into this myself and here's what I've found so far...I'm going to try the oven cleaner on some old anodized parts and see how it goes....Another option is Eastwoods anodizing remover kit...Now for the bad news..I started checking on the bright dip process and it turn out the parts must be darn near flawless with no road rash,scratches, etc... Or the bright dip anodizing magnifies all the imperfections... Even though I thought the bright dip was a touch expensive for what it is,it did'nt even compare to the price of getting the parts I had into shape for the actual process...So it looks like I'll be sitting in front of the buffing wheel for a while !!! I've seen parts with small imperfections that have been re-anodized and it does in fact bring them out and some of the bright dipped parts with pits looked like white spots under the coating... ... So what I'm trying to say is to have the parts looking real good before the process for the best results...

For the parts I want to do, they will all fit in a brass cleaner with walnut shells....Poor man's way of shining them up.

Tried the oven remover, and that didn't seem to work.

I had the front hood pieces on my Dart redone by Mark Shank (260 839 0170) from Indiana. It generally takes him longer than most because he compiles a number of pieces before he sends them out to get bulk pricing. I didn't feel it was all that costly.
The metal does have to be flawless or the imperfections will show. One piece of mine has some some pitting marks. It still shines, but you can see the pit marks. It was the best metal I could find at the time.
Be careful with the oven cleaner. I know a guy who used it and it messed up his metal. Maybe he left it on to long.
Mark's a good guy! Tell him Todd told you to call.