Re: brake question....warning very long
[Re: sixty9bee]
#1712093
12/17/14 10:39 PM
12/17/14 10:39 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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The specific line from the block to RF, If you cracked it at the upstream end (right there where it screws into the block) & the RF wheel cyl releases that would tell me that everything downstream from that fitting is unobstructed & that the problem is in the block right there where that fitting screws into it. If I'm reading that right that you can crack a line elsewhere in the system (other than the RF line) & it releases makes me think it's a 1 way blockage (at the block passage for the RF line) otherwise a total blockage at that point would not let the RF cyl be released by cracking a line somewhere else in the system. I'd open the block fittings blow it (the splitter block) out
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: brake question....warning very long
[Re: sixty9bee]
#1712096
12/17/14 10:57 PM
12/17/14 10:57 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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I'm glad to help (if I can). Yeah we got a simple blockage somewhere. I ain't thinking MC but more the splitter block
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: brake question....warning very long
[Re: sixty9bee]
#1712098
12/18/14 12:35 AM
12/18/14 12:35 AM
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,386
Philadelphia PA
Pynzo
Drugs are bad
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Drugs are bad
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,386
Philadelphia PA
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Quote:
Not to say,it is not or cannot happen to two in a row (new not necessarily good) but to keep you thinking on things I have to tell you it's the second block. I started with the original from the car and then decided it must be the prob so I got a new one. No change.
These parts are from a Raybestos rebuild kit for a '70 B Body 11" Manual M/C. The rubber anti reversion seal in your M/C may be in backwards. You can have these replacements free if you want them.
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Re: brake question....warning very long
[Re: poorboy]
#1712101
12/19/14 01:06 AM
12/19/14 01:06 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,196
Harrisburg, Pa.
screamindriver
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,196
Harrisburg, Pa.
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Quote:
The rod between the booster and the master cylinder is too long. If its a factory rod, the end is adjustable. There is a lock nut and the end threads in 9or out, you need to go in) with a 5/16" wrench. The adjustment is there because there is a difference in the depth of the hole in the cup of the master cylinder.
When you make that adjustment, a little goes a long ways. I would suggest you make the change 1/4 turn at a time. If you go too far, the pedal will travel a long way before any brake action will happen. Gene
This would be my first guess also...Pressure not releasing because the master cylinder won't return to the correct "at rest" position...I've had it happen...
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Re: brake question....warning very long
[Re: screamindriver]
#1712102
12/19/14 01:27 AM
12/19/14 01:27 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,555
Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,555
Freeport IL USA
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OK, I know this sounds stupid, but is the brake pedal coming all the way back up? I've seen where over the years the brake light switch has been adjusted just enough the pedal isn't returning to the stop. The fluid return hole inside the master is very small, if the rubber cup does not return enough to completely uncover that hole, the brakes are slow or fail to release.
For a test, put flat washers between the master and the mounting surface before you tighten the mounting bolts. (I wouldn't drive the car to perform this test). If the brakes release, you know what the problem is, now you just have to find the cause. If the brakes don't release, you have eliminated another possibility. Gene
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Re: brake question....warning very long
[Re: sixty9bee]
#1712104
12/21/14 10:35 PM
12/21/14 10:35 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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this might be too much work but would it be possible for you to switch the front lines (at the splitter) & see if that makes the problem switch sides. If you did & no switch it'd sure confirm the problem is at or upstream from the splitter block & if it did switch then we'll go back & work on the original offending corner. EDIT maybe there is a mech problem on that corner that is partially hanging up the linkage etc to where the return springs themselves ain't strong enough to return the pistons/fluid
Last edited by RapidRobert; 12/21/14 10:40 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: brake question....warning very long
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1712105
12/21/14 11:22 PM
12/21/14 11:22 PM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,807
ohio
ruderunner
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,807
ohio
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The give away is cracking the line at the master relieves the pressure. Something is keeping the master from relieving the pressure. Loosen the master bolts as much as possible, confirm that the pedal IS NOT against the stop or switch. Pump the brake and see if the wheel cyl is still not releasing.
If the cylinder still won't retract without reliving pressure the master is junk.
If the cylinder does retract the problem is pushrod length.
There is no mystery here, these are the only possibilities.
As for why the rf shows symptoms vs lf try swapping return springs side to side. I bet its just imbalanced springs. Maybe wear grooves in the backing plate but these are easy to see
Angry white pureblood male
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Re: brake question....warning very long
[Re: sixty9bee]
#1712107
12/22/14 11:41 AM
12/22/14 11:41 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,664
Newfoundland
mopar_man
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,664
Newfoundland
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Do you have the lines switched at the master cylinder? Aren't the front drums wider than the rear and carry a different dia wheel cyl ? If what you say is correct and the pressure is relieved when you crack the line at the master cyl, then its a no brainer . Its the MC or the rod is too long . Can't recall if you have PBs , if so would the booster be screwed up ? Just confirming what the other guys are saying .  Does the MC have a metal inserts where your lines screw in ?Check the end of the line and see if they align properly. I know if it was completely closed off both brakes would stay on but maybe brake springs could be a little weaker on the RF .
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