Okay, thought I'd solicit some opinions and please explain why you'd choose as you do.

Combo is 360 +0.040", KB Hyper pistons very close to 9.5:1 C/R, repro 340 cam, valves have typical 3 angle job on I think 2.02/1.60 valves, tri-y headers. 4 speed trans, 3.23 sure grip and close to 4400 lbs curb weight. Trans is not the o/d unit. This is however, a truck that sees some towing duty. Currently running a performer intake with eddie 650 on it. It actually does not run poorly, it's just this particular intake has an issue with coolant leakage I've never managed to totally stop and I'm now thinking it's just plain porous.

So, if I get a new intake to use with the existing pieces, what should I get?? I'd kinda like to have a bit more grunt if possible but the cam is going to restrict that more than anything.

Let's hear your suggestions!
Mike

keep the performer.

The weight alone dictates a dual plane for low end.I have no experience with small blocks so I will butt out.

If you can find a LD340 I would recommend one of those. As for the big valve heads, they are possibly hurting your low end performance more than helping it.

Where is that coolant leak?
Bolt holes, gaskets surface?
Might be fixable.
Just my I'm not a big believer in changing parts to fix things unless there is no other choice.

Well, the cam is advanced 4 degrees already so I do have decent bottom end but a little more never hurts. The leak is at/around the thermostat housing. I've changed thermostat housings a couple times, it now has an old cast iron one on it; and both surfaces have been ground or finished somewhat - has also had different gaskets with/without sealant, currently glued together with permatex. It seems very sensitive to pressure, when the system pressure builds a bit it leaks. The rad cap has also been changed and tested and it's right on 15 lbs. so the pressure isn't unreasonably high. Cold weather conditions like now it's at its worst - not drastic, but have to refill the overflow bottle every two weeks as it cycles from max to almost dry. I can't always see moisture at the housing/intake joint, but it's down in that dip right there which is what makes me think it may just be a porosity issue with the manifold itself. I now have ~ 90K on the engine and it's been doing this off and on for the whole time. I've improved it but cannot seem to cure it.
Mike

You have the only intake that will work with that A/C set up other than a stock iron one.

Truck application I would have looked for an RV grind.

Sure sounds like you have exhausted any chance to salvage the intake. You're putting sealent on the bolt threads right? Guess your on the right track.
by the way where can I get some of those cast iron water necks? I can't find them around here.
all my older aluminum ones are getting pretty bad.

Yeah, but it's my daily driver truck, don't pull all that often, but I get to play with it almost every day. It still does okay, dragging my 7 x 14 enclosed with the bikes in it over Beartooth pass stressed it a bit, but what the hey... Actually, if starting at speed I never had to downshift up in that rare air until 6% or better grade.

Well.. a torker 2 single plane will be the only other option that will allow you to keep the AC in the stock location. You can get a relocation kit from bouchillon that is really quite nice that uses a short compressor and it gives you plenty of clearance for just about any intake you want. I bet even a six-pak would work! I would have gone that route but I had just bought a reamn C141 compressor for over $200 so I stuck with it. I am using 3.73 gear and 2800stall and it is still a bit much for a good launch with my 390 stroker. I would definately stay with the performer dual plane. An air gap would be just about ideal but you need to lose the AC or relocate it... I have spent many agonizing hours researching this exact problem TBF

Here is the setup installed.... Does anybody make a matched set of belts anymore??? I buy 2 of the same and 1 will always tension before the other so you can only use 1 belt....... seems to work o.k. though... TBF

I would look for a cast iron 340 intake for your application, better than a lot of the aluminum intakes out there, especially for your combo. A touch better but more expensive would be an LD340. The 318 based LD4B would work great too.

Sheldon

you might go to a radiator shop & have them pump it up to ~15 lbs(when hot) & see if you can spot where it's leaking.

Oh yeah, that matched belt thing. When I asked a few of the parts store folks about getting some they told me that no one makes matched belts anymore because the manufacturing tolerances and procedures are now so accurate that it's unnecessary. Uh huh, you've also noticed that there's a bit to be desired there yet.

Seems like you guys are kinda backing me up, I've been kinda looking for an LD340 but haven't seen too much for what I think is a reasonable price. Was kinda hoping for an alternate that would be easier to find, guess I'm stuck waiting for one to show up. I'm not ready to modify everything like the A/C partly 'cause I'm too cheap but also since it is a driver and does get into many out of the way places I don't want to end up with exotic/unusual parts that I can't find if and when it should break.

Thanks for all the input.
Mike

LD4B and maybe a little more carb and a 1/2 4 hole spacer would probably help.

In the real world there is not as much difference in performance between the LD4B and the LD340 as one would think. Yes there is a difference but not nearly what it looks like it would be. My biggest gain was going from the standard Performer to the LD4B, much less going from the LD4B to the LD340.

I think the performer is the correct manifold for your engine and application, but you should gasket match the manifold ports to the larger 360 heads, and figure out why it is leaking.

where is the manifild leaking, the thermostat? or where it seals to the heads? or from one of the coolant sensor holes?