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Do we know if the low comp pistons are even still in there? Sounds like a rebuild was done. ???

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Have you EVER come across a rebuild that didn't have junk pistons in it? Ever? Once? I swear there is a conspiracy amongst part-counter salesmen to only sell stuff designed in the 60's. To most hot rod guys, TRW and Speed-Pro are cutting edge.

I'm betting the car its got either stock junk, jobber junk, or expensive 'cutting edge' TRW/SP junk in it. 9 times out ov 10, if the builder wanted high compression you'll find domed junk in there...

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Uh yeah, all the time. Not all rebuilds are "reman" jobs. Who knows what he has?

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3) My experience is that all mopar engines that are rebuilt are rebuilt with junk/marginally adequate parts unless the seller can speak intelligently about the parts and articulate part numbers and compression heights.

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Measurable differences would likely be low, its more of a strength issue. I wouldn't hesitate to put an engine together with them. They're old but nothing wrong with them, similar to the Purpleshaft cams and 906 heads. Lots of cars have gone really fast with 2355s, six pack rods, 906 heads, and a 509 cam.

The main thing with the TRWs are they're just expensive as anything else, not worth ponying up the same dough when there are WAAAY better options for the same price.

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If your goal is more "snap", I'd replace the cam and valve springs, put a good ignition system on it, and either get it properly tuned, or learn to tune it. You can get beyond 400hp very easilly without gtting into anything beyond the cam, and that includes the factory intake and carb. If you want to rebuild it properly for performance, it will cost somewhere between $4-5K depending on parts choices. But from what you say you have, and say you want, you have 95% of what you need. Work with a good knowledgable builder, do what is needed to get your result, and don't break the $1200 mark.

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If your goal is more "snap", I'd replace the cam and valve springs, put a good ignition system on it, and either get it properly tuned, or learn to tune it. You can get beyond 400hp very easilly without gtting into anything beyond the cam, and that includes the factory intake and carb. If you want to rebuild it properly for performance, it will cost somewhere between $4-5K depending on parts choices. But from what you say you have, and say you want, you have 95% of what you need. Work with a good knowledgable builder, do what is needed to get your result, and don't break the $1200 mark.

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.....You can get beyond 400hp very easilly without gtting into anything beyond the cam, and that includes the factory intake and carb.

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.....You can get beyond 400hp very easilly without gtting into anything beyond the cam, and that includes the factory intake and carb.

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I'd like to see that.

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After some great advice here, this is what I'm comming up with.

Hughes whiplash cam.
Headman headers 78076. ( I picked these mid length headers since I have power steering and fast ratio arms. Still waithing for a response from them if these fit without modifiction).
Holley SD intake.
Already have 770 carb.

Hopefully wake her up a little.
Anything I am missing

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I know that the SD is very popular on this forum, and is often referred to as being "....as good as a dual plane..." For what it is worth, My experience and data suggests that it is not as good as a dual plane. I would classify the SD as: "...for a single plane manifold it does not suck down low...", and not to be confused with "...it is as good as a dual plane."

Even on my 500 in motor, the SD gave up measurable power and torque below 4500 rpm compared to the Indy dual plane and 6 pack intakes.

I personally would go Performer RPM, maybe even a CH4B.

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I personally would go Performer RPM, maybe even a CH4B.

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I'm pretty much a dual plane for the street period, kinda guy. The operating range of most if not all single planes are out of the operating range most used/effective on the street and very few are running enough convertor or gear to stand in the sweet spot of a single plane. Not to mention no many have the bottom end to live long take full advantage of a single plane intake. I also think you are still resticting yourself with the carb.

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I personally would go Performer RPM, maybe even a CH4B.

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I'm pretty much a dual plane for the street period, kinda guy. The operating range of most if not all single planes are out of the operating range most used/effective on the street and very few are running enough convertor or gear to stand in the sweet spot of a single plane. Not to mention no many have the bottom end to live long take full advantage of a single plane intake. I also think you are still resticting yourself with the carb.

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On the street, what I call "Tip-in throttle response" is king in situations where you want to snap quickly from a light but not draw too much attention to yourself. My experience with single-planes left me without the torque that some vehicle with less high rpm HP had but already got the jump on me. And then we had to shutdown due to the speed limit and visibility of that area we were in.

Now, add a high stall converter, gearing, D.O.T. tires, cam, carb and the rest of the package......game on.