U-joint help needed
#1702350
11/23/14 07:42 PM
11/23/14 07:42 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,978 USA
Suregrip391
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,978
USA
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I think I have this right, just need reassurance after searching the tech archives. I have a 741 case yoke and It measures 2 1/8" inside to inside where the joint sits. ( picture is dark, looks like it's at 2 1/4" but it's not, it's at 2 1/8") is there where I should be measuring? I also have a driveshaft from a 67 GTX, inside to inside measures 2 5/8" ( as shown in fuzzy crappy cell phone pic) did I measure this correctly? I am thinking that the proper u-joint needed for my driveshaft will be a combination u-joint? The driveshaft has "grooves" for snap rings. So a 7260 for the 741 yoke, and a 7290 (or 1310??) for the driveshaft? This is where I'm stuck. I'd like to have the info handy before going to the parts store. Thank you.
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Re: U-joint help needed
[Re: Suregrip391]
#1702356
11/23/14 08:32 PM
11/23/14 08:32 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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As said you need a "combo" ujoint of which several brands are available, for the rear. The "cross" will be 2&5/8 wide one way to fit the shaft and 2&1/8" wide the other way to fit the pinion yoke. After installing it move it back and forth & if it ain't smooth/with no binding then whack the ears with a drift/bfh till it's corrected. The "ears" are the 2 metal pieces on the shaft that connect the 2 holes in the driveshaft to the rest of the shaft. Set the shaft on the ground horizontle supported underneath it along its' length so the ujoint/yoke on the end is an inch or so off the ground then with one ear at 12 0'clock whack it then turn it 180 & whack the other ear then see if it is free & repeat as needed. Before you get to this point, when first installing it, driving the ujoint in with a hammer works better than compressing it with a vise surprisingly as a hammer is always my last choice on most situations. On the front trans yoke same deal, want it free in both planes of movement but sounds like you are good there & this is a pig change only in the rear
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: U-joint help needed
[Re: Suregrip391]
#1702359
11/23/14 11:03 PM
11/23/14 11:03 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487 Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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Quote:
Yes, thanks only in the rear is the change. Actually reading the info and links above I'm supposed to measure the width of the. "Grooves" on the driveshaft ears, not the inside to inside as I did above on my picture. Because this has grooves, it's groove to groove which I measure 3 5/8" and that's a 1330 U-joint. And the 741 diff gets the 7260 conversion. I think I have this correct now.
2 1/8" = 7260
2 5/8" = 7290
3 5/8" = 1330
IIRC = napa part #
2 1/8 x 3 5/8 = 240-0457 = #457
2 1/8 x 2 5/8 = #347
2 5/8 x 3 5/8 = #458
my 67 742-3.23 open diff has the 10 spline 1330 yoke
my 1330 pinion yoke has tabs in the saddle of yoke ears to hold the caps/no clips. the 7260 side has inside c-clips grooves in caps to hold caps in drive shaft.
IIRC, it came with outside retainer clips for the 1330 side but were not used on my swap.
you are set up opposite of mine with your drive shaft being 1330 yoke and using outside retainer clips in grooves
the 7260 side is going to use inside clips on the pinion yoke.
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