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Re: 68 Charger Axle Play [Re: NITROUSN] #1701697 11/28/14 01:07 AM 11/28/14 01:07 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,270 Morrow, OH markz528 master
markz528 master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,270 Morrow, OH	Quote: Quote: but I find it hard to believe that Summit would sell a disc brake conversion kit that doesn't work. Is it possible it was set up before with the green/ford ball bearing wheel bearings? Looks like your backing plate is about 1/4 inch thick so Doc Diff is right - its adding about 1/4 inch (1/8 inch per side) from stock width so it will never adjust. Since you had the tube welded to the housing for the old setup, is my assumption correct that the axles bolted directly to the housing so that is why the tapered bearings worked? It absolutely looks to me like the Summit kit is designed to only work with green bearings. And BTW, if you go with green bearings then you should remove the pins you just put back in. 67 Coronet 500 9.610 @ 139.20 mph 67 Coronet 500 (street car) 14.82 @ 94 mph 69 GTX (clone) - build in progress......

Re: 68 Charger Axle Play [Re: markz528] #1701698 11/28/14 02:11 AM 11/28/14 02:11 AM
Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 32 Santa Barbara, California E Edahlke OP member
Edahlke OP member E Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 32 Santa Barbara, California	Here are summit's directions that I'm working with, they're not great but you can see all the parts involved in the one exploded view The total width added to each side is .38". The skinnier plate you see in the directions which they say to use with one piece axles only measures .13", while the outer most plate (which the directions refer to as the split mounting bracket) is .25". Instructions

Re: 68 Charger Axle Play [Re: Edahlke] #1701699 11/28/14 02:57 AM 11/28/14 02:57 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 8,016 Polson, MT DoctorDiff master
DoctorDiff master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 8,016 Polson, MT	According to the directions, you did not install the kit correctly. On a Mopar rear, the 5-hole bearing retainer/adjuster MUST mount 1/8" away from the housing end. This means the wheel bearing retainer/adjuster bolts on top of the thin shim, then the (split) caliper bracket bolts on top of the retainer/adjuster. Contact info

Re: 68 Charger Axle Play [Re: Edahlke] #1701700 11/29/14 05:06 PM 11/29/14 05:06 PM
Joined: May 2003 Posts: 1,751 Graham, WA P Polarapete top fuel
Polarapete top fuel P Joined: May 2003 Posts: 1,751 Graham, WA	IMHO you need to re-engineer your axle/brake system. If it were mine, I would pull the whole axle and start with FORD axle ends that would match the brakes that you are using. Have them welded (using a jig for straightness) onto your existing housing. Then I would use new axles with sealed FORD bearings and you would have no issue with axle end play. All you need is to have the axle shafts long enough to fully engage the side gears in the differential. Dr Diff can furnish the axles. This how I built the Dana 60 for the Ramcharger...I used a Dr. Diff 35 spline spool, Dutchman axles with FORD "Torino" big bearings (Same as F150) and the FORD racing 11" x 2.25" drum brakes (cheap, but effective) Your '68 Charger won't know the difference between the tapered bearings (Chrysler) and FORD bearings and I will never tell anyone 8345598-100_3286.JPG (47 downloads) 1986 Dodge Ramcharger 440 2wd, Bracket Racer Under Construction 1998 Ram 2500 QuadCab, new daily driver. 2008 Honda Element 2014 Carry-On 7x14 Cargo Trailer

Re: 68 Charger Axle Play [Re: Polarapete] #1701701 12/01/14 09:49 PM 12/01/14 09:49 PM
Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 32 Santa Barbara, California E Edahlke OP member
Edahlke OP member E Joined: Nov 2014 Posts: 32 Santa Barbara, California	Thanks for all the help! I believe I am finally on the right track! Dr. Diff's gasket set should come in the mail today, then I'm all ready to go. We're scheduled for some rain tomorrow and maybe Wednesday, so I think I'll put it all back together after that, and with all the help you all have given me, I think it'll go smoothly. Polarapete - the thought definitely crossed my mind to just swap in a Dana 60. The prices on a new one definitely aren't cheap though, and I think I'll be able to get my 8 3/4 working.

Re: 68 Charger Axle Play [Re: DoctorDiff] #1701702 12/02/14 11:48 PM 12/02/14 11:48 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,270 Morrow, OH markz528 master
markz528 master Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 4,270 Morrow, OH	Quote: According to the directions, you did not install the kit correctly. On a Mopar rear, the 5-hole bearing retainer/adjuster MUST mount 1/8" away from the housing end. This means the wheel bearing retainer/adjuster bolts on top of the thin shim, then the (split) caliper bracket bolts on top of the retainer/adjuster. Totally agree.......... 67 Coronet 500 9.610 @ 139.20 mph 67 Coronet 500 (street car) 14.82 @ 94 mph 69 GTX (clone) - build in progress......

Re: 68 Charger Axle Play [Re: Edahlke] #1701703 12/03/14 07:54 PM 12/03/14 07:54 PM
Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,688 Marlboro, NY, USA R Rick_Ehrenberg top fuel
Rick_Ehrenberg top fuel R Joined: Sep 2003 Posts: 1,688 Marlboro, NY, USA	Quote: ... I pulled the axle out and shined a flashlight down the tube and saw what appeared to be a thrust button. I tried fishing it out, but it just dropped down inside the differential housing. Just a bit of useful "100 miles from nowhere" info: Early thrust buttons used a roll pin between the buttons, this was the design that was prone to having the button(s) fall in when an axle was removed. Later versions used what is almost a "nail", you peened over the headless end when installing. The point is that both systems were just an assembly aid. You can stick the buttons in with heavy grease, daub of RTV, whatever, pop the pig and axles in, you'll be fine...until next time you pull the axles, of course. Natch, be sure the pin isn't floating in there somewhere. Rick

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