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front end alignment for street/strip #1688815
10/21/14 11:25 PM
10/21/14 11:25 PM
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Posts: 893
illinois
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rbkt65 Offline OP
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illinois
is there a difference? what would be best compromise? have s/wagon with manual rack and torsion bars, 90/10 front shocks, rear coil overs/ladder bars. old dc book gave some procedures and specs, but what is best suited for street/track. ill hang up and listen. thanks in advance.

Re: front end alignment for street/strip [Re: rbkt65] #1688816
10/22/14 12:33 AM
10/22/14 12:33 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL Offline
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BROOK PARK, OH
Personally I would shoot for something like

0 to -.5 deg camber per side. .5 deg cross camber

2 to 2.5 deg caster per side. .5 deg cross caster

1/16" toe per side. Total toe 1/8"

This is assuming you have radial tires on it.

Re: front end alignment for street/strip [Re: WILD BILL] #1688817
10/22/14 12:40 AM
10/22/14 12:40 AM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 893
illinois
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rbkt65 Offline OP
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illinois
no radial tires-have m/t et streets on rear and m/t sportsman front.thanks

Re: front end alignment for street/strip [Re: rbkt65] #1688818
10/22/14 09:18 AM
10/22/14 09:18 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL Offline
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BROOK PARK, OH
In that case i would try to get closer to 0 to -.2 deg camber

Re: front end alignment for street/strip [Re: WILD BILL] #1688819
10/22/14 12:39 PM
10/22/14 12:39 PM
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Sweet Home Alabama
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MRMOPAR622 Offline
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Sweet Home Alabama
If you can find someone near you with the old Direct-Connection Blue Book it tells you how.The book may be a little old but most of the stuff in it stills works today.If you want a front end alignment or want to improve your rear leaf springs on an A,B or E body car you can not go wrong using it.


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Re: front end alignment for street/strip [Re: rbkt65] #1688820
10/22/14 10:06 PM
10/22/14 10:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,997
Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
gregsdart Offline
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Frostbitefalls MN (Rocky&Bullw...
More caster than stock, for keeping the car straight as well as better recovery in the event of getting out of shape. IMHO the more caster you can put in, the better. But be aware that changing caster moves the tie rod end, changing bump steer some. Adding more caster also increases steering resistance. Correct bump steer is very important to reduce toe in/toe out during the run when the car is running with the front higher and should be corrected after the alignment. On my custom built front suspension I limited total travel for two reasons, one for chassis reaction, two for eliminating bump steer at the far end of travel on my particular deal.

Last edited by gregsdart; 10/22/14 10:12 PM.

8..603 156 mph best, 2905 lbs 549, indy 572-13, alky
Re: front end alignment for street/strip [Re: WILD BILL] #1688821
10/22/14 10:10 PM
10/22/14 10:10 PM
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Posts: 7,664
IN
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ahy Offline
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Quote:

Personally I would shoot for something like

0 to -.5 deg camber per side. .5 deg cross camber

2 to 2.5 deg caster per side. .5 deg cross caster

1/16" toe per side. Total toe 1/8"

This is assuming you have radial tires on it.






Re: front end alignment for street/strip [Re: WILD BILL] #1688822
10/23/14 12:32 PM
10/23/14 12:32 PM
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Posts: 1,212
Minn
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SportF Offline
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I haven't done alignment on a ton of B bodies 62-65, but the most castor I could ever get (even with offset bushings) was about 1.5 degrees. Most of them were about 1 degree positive. Has this been anybody else's experience?

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Re: front end alignment for street/strip [Re: SportF] #1688823
10/23/14 01:00 PM
10/23/14 01:00 PM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
B G Racing Offline
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Eighty Four, PA
Quote:

I haven't done alignment on a ton of B bodies 62-65, but the most castor I could ever get (even with offset bushings) was about 1.5 degrees. Most of them were about 1 degree positive. Has this been anybody else's experience?




Most B-bodys were set at 1 degree positive and many were even negative on caster.We usually use modifications to get as much possible positive caster as we can.Chrysler recommended negative 1/2 to 1 degree negative on manual steering and 1/4 to 1 degreee positive on power steering.Negative makes steering easier,positive makes for better tracking.

Re: front end alignment for street/strip [Re: SportF] #1688824
10/23/14 09:05 PM
10/23/14 09:05 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
WILD BILL Offline
Senior Member of the Junior Dragster Club
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Posts: 10,542
BROOK PARK, OH
Quote:

I haven't done alignment on a ton of B bodies 62-65, but the most castor I could ever get (even with offset bushings) was about 1.5 degrees. Most of them were about 1 degree positive. Has this been anybody else's experience?




I have done my fair share of alignments and I can atest that getting that much caster (the numbers I posted) can be difficult without offset bushings or even adjustable tubular upper control arms.

In cases where I was not able to get the caster numbers I wanted with what the car came with, I adjusted them to acheive the most positive caster I could get while mainting the camber I wanted and the keeping the splits in line.

Remember, caster is not a tire wearing angle. Camber is.

Re: front end alignment for street/strip [Re: WILD BILL] #1688825
10/24/14 12:29 AM
10/24/14 12:29 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
3
383man Offline
Too Many Posts
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Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
On my 63 which is a street car and has the stock front end I set as much positive caster as I can which is about 1.5 with the camber about O and the toe around 1/16. Handles fine like that for what it is. Ron

Re: front end alignment for street/strip [Re: gregsdart] #1688826
10/24/14 10:25 AM
10/24/14 10:25 AM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 901
oh
julian2007 Offline
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julian2007  Offline
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Posts: 901
oh
Quote:

More caster than stock, for keeping the car straight as well as better recovery in the event of getting out of shape. IMHO the more caster you can put in, the better. But be aware that changing caster moves the tie rod end, changing bump steer some. Adding more caster also increases steering resistance. Correct bump steer is very important to reduce toe in/toe out during the run when the car is running with the front higher and should be corrected after the alignment. On my custom built front suspension I limited total travel for two reasons, one for chassis reaction, two for eliminating bump steer at the far end of travel on my particular deal.




That is a very good point about the bump steer on caster change. Allot of people do not realize the importance of it.

I have Aligned so many race cars that a customer had already paid a "pro" to do it and found some disturbing setups like 2.0 cross 3/4 pos toe 1.0 neg camber and was told by said "pro" it was perfect. That makes me sick to see that these "pros" are either that stupid or they are complete thieves charging for alignments and not even pulling them on the rack.

You cant go wrong with the setups posted here but make sure you get what you pay for, the wheel should look perfectly strait when the alignment is complete meaning not laid in on the top or the front wheels look like they are turned in.

Alignment pros have your life in there hands make sure the pro you are dealing with respects it.


God made cold beer,good friends,hot ladies and race cars don't spit in his face by pi$$ing and moaning about how life sucks!!!






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