My coupler is off only a smidge. My alignment guy paralleled the pitman and idler then aligned the car. I later popped off the coupler and centered the wheel to my liking. The box is on center but the flat is still at 11. This to me is a matter of how the adapter is welded.

Just wrapped up installation of replacement box today. Had exactly same outcome as original box,,,steering box 30 degrees off top center,,,rough estimate, steering shaft require extreme angle to insert into coupler, left tie rod 1/2 inch longer than right side and differing number of steering wheel turns for full full right turns verses full left turns which means differing radius's.

Shimmed box with quarter inch thick by 1 inch wide by some 3 inch long steel stock with 2 notches cut in to fit around 1/2 inch mounting bolts. Loosen 3 bolts slide shim in and tighten to 95 pounds.

Steering box now at top center and full left and full right turn radius's are same and steering shaft now goes straight into coupler as per Mopar spec. Tie rods still differing lengths, perhaps another 1/8 inch of shim will correct,,,may have enough thread to correct while maintaining toe,,,will check this out.

In my estimate, these boxes are jigged incorrectly. This has cost me considerable money, time, labor and frustration which would have been minimized with candor from certain folks when I first sought assistance and advice some 8 or 9 months ago when this anxiety ridden journey first began.

This swap of boxes is a very labor intensive task, particularly if you are running TTI headers and likely other models too.

Incidentally as per Peter Bergman, the box is not at top center unless the flat spot on your input shaft is pointed outward from engine at exactly 9 o'clock, same as for Bergman coupler set screw. 11 o'clock is incorrect.

With him on this I am total agreement. To this I might add, if your steering shaft is not going straight with no angle, you might want to determine why not.

Wow sorry to hear of all your issues with this. Thanks for posting so others can make informed decisions .

Have had box installed and back on the road for a couple of days now. Box running on top center, tie rod off slightly with one side 1/2 inch longer than other,,,quarter inch subtracted from longer one will take care of this, but likely no impact on handling so why worry. Will have alignment checked again, just because.

Steering now feels like a new car compared to before and goes down the road and turns much better than before correction of box mounting. So far could not be more pleased with on center feel of steering.

I would suggest that those who market this box include some shimming mechanism with them when shipping,,,,or at the very least inform the end user of the possibility that they could be required for a successful and correct installation. Would have certainly saved me much aggravation if this had been done.

Not once in many calls and emails seeking tech support did anyone suggest that a simple shim might be required to resolve the experienced issues. It was only on this forum and some of its(been there done that members) that I was informed of this option, both in this thread and another one where these issues were discussed. Does make one wonder however why this suggestion was never forthcoming from the vendor,,,however i suspect that certain members have opinions.

As far as I can determine, I am the first to explicitly to complain of the steering box being off center and the problems with tie rod ends and the setting of proper toe. However am certain that those who did shimming were aware of this,,that's why they shimmed. I suggest that others who may be unaware check out their own installation.

There are 2 simple clues as to potential problem:

1. Does your steering shaft goe straight into the box coupler or U joint, or does it make an angle,,which is incorrect.

2. Does the flat spot on input shaft to box point directly at 9 O'clock, not at 11 or so. The flat spot should be at 9, if not you are likely not on top center. Bergman coupler set screw should also be at 9 if you are using their coupler and not Borgeson U-joint solution.

Given all this, once the box is successfully installed, it appears to be a worthy product to improve the driving experience of these 40 year plus incredible automobiles.

Thanks again to all who chimed in with suggestions and ideas.

i have the box and have not mounted it yet. do you have pics of the shims you made and how the were attached so that i may mock it up out of the car? i also have tti headersand do not wish to fight it all with fresh paint and the headaches that you have endured. thanks for posting this thread, very informative.

I used a Williams Washer instead of a piece of flat stock. A bit quicker, looks super clean.

thanks for the reply. plan on mocking up while out of the car and measuring old box to a reference point then install borg box and see where i am.. what is a williams washer?? thanks again