The stalling issue I asked about on my '68 Fury (318) is due to a problem with the carb. Too much fuel is building up in the bowl, resulting in flooding and stalling. Gas is actually being forced through the seam where the top of the carb is attached. General consensus among my Mopar friends is that either the float or the needle valve is stuck.

It's the stock Carter 2bbl. I can get a rebuild kit for it, but I've never done a carb rebuild in my life. I can buy a new carb on eBay for under $160 plus shipping.

So, should I try the rebuild, or just buy the new carb?

(Please note that "order a 4bbl for $350 and an intake for $250 from [name of supplier]and fabricate the linkage" is not on the list of choices. This is a 202,000-mile 318 in a C-body.)

Thanks!

They are extremely easy to rebuild, really. And yes, sounds like your float is sticking or your needle and seat are junk. Give it a shot rebuilding, a kit is a few dollars and you can say you did it/learn. Just be careful and pay attention taking it apar. IIRC there will be a check ball or two in there.

Is the new carb new, or rebuilt?

Chances are, you're going to have to rebuild the remanufactured carb anyway, so you might as well save yourself some money and try it yourself. Get a good, detailed book and if possible, a friend that has an idea what he's doing and try it yourself.

Realistically, if it's just the needle/seat being worn out, that's a 30-second operation on a BBD.

Just because it's a carburetor, don't let it intimidate you. Mind over matter. Realistically, it's a 100-year-old device with about 9 moving parts.

If you can walk upright and not drag your knuckles on the ground, you can rebuild a carburetor!

Good luck!

Get the kit. run it for a minute so the bowl is overfull or at least full. Take off the linkage and the top & hold the chrome u shaped bracket in place & set the gauge in the kit across the top of the carb & see if the distance down to the float(s) is higher or lower than the gauge (1/4" down iirc) & note how far. Unscrew the old needle/seat assy from the outside side of the carb and reinstall the new needle/seat medium snug & lube the seat threads. Add some gas & recheck the float level same as before & you want it the same/within 1/32" of what the sheet says. The only critical part is bending the float if you need to. Bend the tab either way to raise/lower the floats and do not jamb the tab into the needle for leverage if you need to raise the floats. then reinstall the top with the new gasket and I lube the bolt threads as they go into aluminum out of habit for carbs that might see frequent rod/jet changes. This wont be as effective as a full on soak in the soup but it'll likely stop the flooding & get you up & running. You might check the float for waterlogged also. (shake it). Holler back with any Q's EDIT before you install the needle, twirl the black neoprene tapered tip between your thumb and forefinger several rotations to smooth the surface as that is the shutoff valve/entry point for the fuel & you want it smooth for a good seal. MORE EDIT Forgot if you have the gasket in place when you set the gauge across to top but the white sheet will say

I bought my '70s 360 four-barrel manifold for $20.00. I bought a Holley 1850 for $35.00, it's a manual choke 600cfm basic carb. The rebuild kit for the carb was about $30.00. I paid something like $15.00 for the squarebore to spreadbore adapter. Total cost $100.

Advantages to using a four barrel, you can actually get parts and tune the carb. I live at altitude and picked up quite a few mpg by being able to jet down the carb to match the air density.

Do what you want. My '64's two-barrel had a nasty habit of the needle sticking open and two consecutive rebuilds didn't cure it. I hope you have better luck.

R.

years back, the Carter bbds were HORRIBLE out of the rebuild shops. A guy went through 26 of 'em before he got a good one!
The current stuff is much better. Figure that the bad cores have been picked through and demand is much smaller.

As said, if you can find a local guy to give you a hand, these are about the simplest carbs to go through. I'd start with a needle and seat and a float first and see if you can get it to stop flooding first.

Rock Auto has the float (Brass) for 8.97
AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 9F1029
And a single rebuild kit for 3.97
KEMPARTS Part # 15284C

The carbs are 147.

So you can order a carb and the kit and float and learn about the carb for under 15 bucks and install or return the carb if needed.

Check your fuel pump pressure, W ehave seen a lot of the Stock replacement parts store pumps putting out 11 -14 PSI.

+1 on rebuild it.
Get a some lasagna pans or similar, and some good nitrile gloves.

On the better kits, they will cover your exact carb in the instructions. They don't explain how the carb works, just what to do when its not obvious or needs a specification. If you want to know how the carb works, there's a number of decent books out there. Also read through the Chrysler booklets on Carbs (see Master Technicians Service Conference for the full list, under Literature, at www.imperialclub.org)

If you run into a real issue with your carb, there is a carb rebuilding and repairing service in south Jersey that did a very nice restoration job for one person on the IFSJA forum. PM me if a websearch fails. However do try it yourself first.

Here's what I did after talking to a friend who's a retired Chrysler tech:
Disconnected the fuel line, pulled the needle assembly. Nothing seemed overly dirty or damaged, so I sprayed the parts (both brass) with Gumout, wiped them off and reinstalled.
Took the air horn off, which was an interesting chore since I don't have anything small enough to disconnect all the linkages. Some of those clips and pins are tiny.
The float and accelerator pump both looked fine and moved freely. I pulled the float (which meant removing the needle assembly again), wiped it off and shook it to make sure it didn't have fuel inside it.
I mopped up the fuel and the little bit of dirt that was in the bottom of the bowl. No signs of corrosion or nasty deposits. Shot my last few drops of Gumout in the bowl and wiped it down.
Reinstalled everything, made sure the screws and fittings were all tight and started the engine.
It started right up and ran fine after I blipped the throttle a couple of times. After five minutes, there was no sign of fuel leaking anywhere--the outside of the carb was nice and dry. I put it in gear and let it idle under load for a minute or two. No bogging, no stalling.
I'll go out and drive it today or tomorrow and see how it does, but for now it appears that it's fixed, even though I didn't really change anything. Weird.

Actually you cleaned the needle/seat which had debris in there & that was what was leaking. I think with a new filter you'll be all set