|
Need advice on electrical issue
#1687331
10/18/14 02:56 PM
10/18/14 02:56 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,074
So Cal, USA
Fab64
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,074
So Cal, USA
|
Hi all, I recently bought a '71 Satellite that seems to have a few electrical issues. In the first pic, you can see an inline fuse on the green wire. I don't know if this is stock or not(?). The PO told me he always disconnected it when parking, to avoid any problems. I soon found out why. When it's connected, it will drain the battery in about 4 days.  So, I began disconnecting it while the car was parked, and figured I could live with that, at least for awhile. However, I recently realized that this wire and fuse are getting very hot to the touch when I drive the car, even after only a few minutes running. This concerns me as I certainly don't want to burn up my wiring loom (which happened to me in a '69 Dodge van many years ago). The other end of this wire goes into the junction block at the firewall. In the pic below, it is the top-most black wire which curves around to the left, is heavily wrapped with black electrical tape, and goes into the block as a red wire:  I am very weak where automotive electrics are concerned. Does anyone have any ideas what might be going on here? Because of the current drain, I'm assuming I have a short somewhere. But, as I said, that is a slow drain. As hot as the fuse is getting while running, it seems this could be a different issue? Any advice or opinions would be appreciated, thanks. Roger
|
|
|
Re: Need advice on electrical issue
[Re: Fab64]
#1687332
10/18/14 03:06 PM
10/18/14 03:06 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,791
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,791
Rio Linda, CA
|
It appears that somebody has used the battery terminal on the relay as a constant power source for some accessory...follow the green wire to that accessory. Mymopar.com has wiring schematics to aid your search. http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
|
|
|
Re: Need advice on electrical issue
[Re: Fab64]
#1687333
10/18/14 03:09 PM
10/18/14 03:09 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
|
It ain't stock. It is an added fused power take off from the starter relay battery terminal which is hot all the time. go under the dash & see what is powered on the downstream end of it & post back. we'll see what is being powered but for sure it should be powered instead by a switched 12V source under the dash. In the meantime keep the fuse in your glove box
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
Re: Need advice on electrical issue
[Re: dan9]
#1687338
10/18/14 07:37 PM
10/18/14 07:37 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,074
So Cal, USA
Fab64
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,074
So Cal, USA
|
Ok, a bit of progress, but mainly more questions. My findings thus far: 1. The fuse which caused the test light to go out is the "Dome & Stop" fuse, left side, second from bottom in the pic below. 2. The Dome & Stop fuse should be 20A, but there is currently a 30A fuse there. 3. I accidentally broke the "Instr & LPS" fuse (top right) getting it out. It is supposed to be 5A, but it was also a 30A fuse. 4. I'm sure Ma Mopar could have made the fuse block more difficult to reach if they'd really tried, but I think they did a pretty darn good job of it as it is.   Oddly, when I connect the main circuit (the one under the hood, which should be a fusible link), neither my dome light nor my brake lights are on unless they are specifically activated by the door switch or by hitting the brakes. Therefore, I'm guessing there must be something else tied into this circuit(?). Back in the old days, my '69 Roadrunner would blow this fuse when someone was sitting in the back seat and I hit the brakes. That was found to be caused by the brake wire sitting between the seat frame and the body, and shorting out when someone sat back there. I will check that first. I also need to check the amperage of all the other fuses in the block. Since I now know there are at least two which are way stronger than they should be, I'm probably lucky there hasn't been a meltdown of my wiring harness yet. Needless to say, the car will be parked until I can sort this out. I remain open to suggestions. Thanks! Roger
|
|
|
Re: Need advice on electrical issue
[Re: Fab64]
#1687339
10/18/14 08:01 PM
10/18/14 08:01 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
|
About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
|
Had a Dart that had a drain I could not track down, turns out the trunk light switch needed adjusting after I put new weatherstripping in.
Check the glove box light too.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
|
|
|
Re: Need advice on electrical issue
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1687342
10/19/14 04:29 AM
10/19/14 04:29 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,074
So Cal, USA
Fab64
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,074
So Cal, USA
|
Quote:
Quote:
The fuse which caused the test light to go out is the "Dome & Stop" fuse, left side, second from bottom in the pic below.
2. Oddly, when I connect the main circuit (the one under the hood, which should be a fusible link), neither my dome light nor my brake lights are on unless they are specifically activated by the door switch or by hitting the brakes.
Alright we know the full time errant draw is in the dome/stop circuit or something (improperly) tied into that circuit. Clarify please what you are saying that the dome/brake lights ain't on unless activated by the door/brakes (I know you dont mean that when they (the light(s) themselves) come on when you open the door/hit the brakes) as that is normal operation (I know I am missing something  )
What I meant was that if neither the dome or brake lights are on all the time, but are working normally, they can't be the source of the short. But it sounds like there still could be a problem somewhere else on this same circuit, correct? Sorry, as stated earlier, I really don't understand the finer points of electricity.
|
|
|
Re: Need advice on electrical issue
[Re: 72roadrunnergtx]
#1687343
10/19/14 04:36 AM
10/19/14 04:36 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,074
So Cal, USA
Fab64
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,074
So Cal, USA
|
Quote:
As mentioned the trunk light, if so equipped, is on that circuit, as well the hazard light flasher. This draw is not the source of heat at the aftermarket fuse holder on the starter relay while running, normal battery charging current is. That fuse holder will not handle that much current without generating some heat. I would start by replacing the fuse holder with the correct sized fusible link. Using a VOM with ammeter function to measure just what your at rest current draw is, would help in identifying the likely cause. The test light method is pretty limited in that regard.
Ok, thanks. If I have time tomorrow, I will try to measure the at-rest current draw.
Do you happen to know the amp rating of the correct fusible link? Btw, it's not just the fuse that's getting hot; the green wire is also getting very warm. The fuse that's currently in that holder is a 30A, and the wire is 10 gauge.
|
|
|
Re: Need advice on electrical issue
[Re: Fab64]
#1687348
10/19/14 03:59 PM
10/19/14 03:59 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
|
Quote:
....
...
What's that red wire coming out of the ACC terminal on the very bottom of your picture go to?
Looking at your other pics, looks like a new engine wiring harness was put on the car at some point.
Not a bad idea to pull the plugs out on the engine side other the fuse box and clean, inspect, tighten female connections. Many times that itself is the draw/resistance on a circuit. But at least for now pull the plug that contains the circuit with that added fuse on it.
You need a very fine blade screwdriver or terminal removal tool. Pop the female connections out from the inside, inspect, clean with wire brush, test how well they grip the male spade connections, and carefully tighten the grip of the female connection with a mini pliers.
Other pics show the has aftermarket tach, 3 aftermarket gauges, MSD, and a separate rev limiter?.
This car was owned by a Moparts member. Forgot his handle.
Last edited by autoxcuda; 10/19/14 04:01 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Need advice on electrical issue
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1687349
10/19/14 04:16 PM
10/19/14 04:16 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
|
Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
|
HF sells a mini dremel kit for cheap that works perfect for cleaning the fuse holder blades
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
|
|
|
|
|
. There is a dead short somewhere inside that blew the FL & they subbed that in to get it up & running & then disconnected it when parked but they did not take care of the dead short. find/fix it. I'm surprised the fuse ain't blowing. EDIT on second thought not a dead short but something is drawing current/on all the time that should not be on
