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T-bar cheep #1679492
09/28/14 08:01 PM
09/28/14 08:01 PM
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,805
ky hills
thehemikid Offline OP
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thehemikid  Offline OP
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Posts: 1,805
ky hills
I assume T-bar can creep over time?

70 RR original T-bars

At full slack on the adjusters the left side T-bar "finger" is 1/4" higher than the right. I measured from the frame to verify. I had to run the bolt up 7&1/4 turns to get no lash, whereas the right side is already on the swivel.

Is this fairly common?


What makes it more interesting is that the left side upper A-arm lacks about an 1/8" touching the bump stop whereas the right is touching already,...& the upper shock stud nuts are at the same height (9 threads at the moment)

Is this a "no biggy",...will probably have one bolt head a little lower than the other after setting bumper height,...& no one will see it from the road?

Re: T-bar cheep [Re: thehemikid] #1679493
09/28/14 09:15 PM
09/28/14 09:15 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,467
So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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So Cal
Quote:

I assume T-bar can creep over time?

70 RR original T-bars

At full slack on the adjusters the left side T-bar "finger" is 1/4" higher than the right. I measured from the frame to verify. I had to run the bolt up 7&1/4 turns to get no lash, whereas the right side is already on the swivel.

Is this fairly common?


What makes it more interesting is that the left side upper A-arm lacks about an 1/8" touching the bump stop whereas the right is touching already,...& the upper shock stud nuts are at the same height (9 threads at the moment)

Is this a "no biggy",...will probably have one bolt head a little lower than the other after setting bumper height,...& no one will see it from the road?




Do you run rubber LCA bushing or Poly?

Re: T-bar cheep [Re: autoxcuda] #1679494
09/28/14 11:20 PM
09/28/14 11:20 PM
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,805
ky hills
thehemikid Offline OP
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thehemikid  Offline OP
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ky hills
Rubber.

Re: T-bar cheep [Re: thehemikid] #1679495
09/29/14 12:27 AM
09/29/14 12:27 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,467
So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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Quote:

Rubber.




When you tightened down the LCA pin to the K-member with the car level side to side at ride height, the pin slightly moved or the adjuster arm socket was not 100% in contact with the screw adjuster pin. Tough to see when the car is on the ground.

The rubber bushing is directly pressed in the adjuster arm housing. And then the pin is pressed directly to the bushing. So wherever you bolt the pin into the K-member the adjuster arm will be clocked in that same position at rest with no load.

The rubber flexes with the LCA moves up and down. Just try you best to get it neutral flex at ride height zero position to minimize the amount of flexing at extremes of travel.

Re: T-bar cheep [Re: autoxcuda] #1679496
09/30/14 01:33 AM
09/30/14 01:33 AM
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,805
ky hills
thehemikid Offline OP
top fuel
thehemikid  Offline OP
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,805
ky hills
Quote:

Quote:

Rubber.




When you tightened down the LCA pin to the K-member with the car level side to side at ride height, the pin slightly moved or the adjuster arm socket was not 100% in contact with the screw adjuster pin. Tough to see when the car is on the ground.

The rubber bushing is directly pressed in the adjuster arm housing. And then the pin is pressed directly to the bushing. So wherever you bolt the pin into the K-member the adjuster arm will be clocked in that same position at rest with no load.

The rubber flexes with the LCA moves up and down. Just try you best to get it neutral flex at ride height zero position to minimize the amount of flexing at extremes of travel.




Thanks for the complement, of assuming I tightened it at the ride height, of which I didn't. I was going to let the car down from jack stands to make it easier to do some work under the hood (full restoration) then come back around to the suspension last after I get the motor running in the car.

I spotted the gap at the swivel just before I lowered the car down

Now, after your explaining the bushing twist after tightening at ride height,...I'm concerned about my tightened at full rebound, then being at full twist when I let the car down.

Anything to be concerned about?

Or do I need to lift it back up, loosen the pins, lower to roughly ride height, (of which I don't know where I want it yet) & re-tighten, for the bushing's sake?

In the past if I needed some work in the front suspension I went to a friends front end shop.

This being a restoration I figured its time I learn & try to set up all that I can, & maintain, of these new parts.







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