Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Brakes - 1974 Satellite #1677149
09/26/14 09:18 AM
09/26/14 09:18 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,430
St Charles MO
70Coronet500Vert Offline OP
master
70Coronet500Vert  Offline OP
master

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 8,430
St Charles MO
I have done brakes quite a while. A lot of hang and turns, occasional master cylinder, lines, etc. This problem has me puzzled.

On my son's Satellite, the brakes travel almost to the floor to work, then they are very touchy, it is like instant on.

We have bled and bled. I am going to take the rears apart this weekend and check the shoes and make sure they are set right, but i think it is a hydraulic issue.

Assuming i know the basics, any "advanced" troubleshooting for the power booster, MC, prop valve? It is a disc/drum car with power.

I mean it is a Satellite Sebring Plus Sundance for goodness sake! (Longest name in Plymouth history?)


No matter how responsible he may seem, never give your gun to a monkey!
1970 Coronet Vert
1972 Charger
1974 Satellite Sebring Plus Sundance
2001 Ram 4x4
2002 Intrepid
2006 300C
Re: Brakes - 1974 Satellite [Re: 70Coronet500Vert] #1677150
09/26/14 12:27 PM
09/26/14 12:27 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
R
RapidRobert Offline
Circle Track
RapidRobert  Offline
Circle Track
R

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
Power brakes I am assuming. If so seperate the MC from the booster & confirm the pushrod round nub is no more than a hair back from the bottom of the piston recess "thimble". Then with PB or manual continue on & I am assuming your rear shoes are spooned up in the ballpark but pull the ebrake on which will elim that as a factor & now on to the problem: "air". Bleed the M/C with the kit with the blue plastic fittings/2 short rubber hoses then hookup the hard line to the closest to the radiator forward port & bleed out the rears then same with the front discs. You might want to buy 2 brass male inverted flare cap fittings in the Edelman cabinet at your parts house & plug the MC ports & if the MC is good (& bled out) the pedal (eng on/pushrod clearance correct if PB) will be rock hard with virtually NO travel. They are cheap & you WILL reuse em in the future. another adv of those fittings is if the pedal is soft & you cap one of the ports & now the pedal is hard/little travel then that tells you the capped port is the system half with air still in in & some calepers are hard to get bled out. I have a helper pump the pedal fast for 3 strokes then I open a bleeder as he comes down on the 4th stroke (perfect timing needed) which agitates the fluid & helps kick the air out of there. EDIT be sure to put a block of wood under the pedal to limit its travel to it's normal range & it gives you better control of pedal movement when stopped

Last edited by RapidRobert; 09/27/14 12:47 AM.

live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth






Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1