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What's killing my battery? #1673509
09/18/14 03:46 AM
09/18/14 03:46 AM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,730
Red Deer, Alberta
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bill_greenwood Offline OP
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bill_greenwood  Offline OP
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Joined: Feb 2003
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Red Deer, Alberta
So... I have a GM style one-wire alternator. Prior to this year, I had observed that my alternator wasn't charging below 2000 rpm. I have a fairly small crank pulley, so I had a friend machine me a smaller alternator pulley, and tested the voltage. Before my first outing this season, the battery was showing 13+ volts at idle with the engine, fuel pump, and water pump running. The cooling fan has enough draw to pull it to a discharge at idle, but at 1000 and up, it was now charging. I could never figure out why I couldn't get more than a few rounds out of it before needing to charge up, given that I assumed it was charging the battery, when I was actually discharging even chugging down the return road at 1500-2000 rpm. So, I changed the pulley size.
That seemed to fix it until the last weekend at the track. One pass on a fully charged battery brought it down to 10-11 volts by the time I got back to our pit stall. We spent both days chasing an electrical demon while going rounds. Thinking my battery had cratered, I installed a new one. (Thankful for the New Holland implement dealership within sight of the track.) No dice. Another racer lent me his alternator. Still didn't fix the issue. Back home, I bypassed the existing wire from the positive side of the alternator to the battery. No change. I traced the power feed from the kill switch that goes back to the MSD box, and repaired what I thought might have been a chafed wire that could have been grounding to the chassis. A quick fire-up led me to think that might have been the issue.
Tonight, I threw the timing light on it, and starting with a fully charged battery and running it with the fan and water pump running to keep it cool, I was out of battery within a few minutes. Before I could set the timing and lock it in, the car was having difficulty just idling due to lack of juice. When I shut it off, the battery had enough juice to spin the fan, but not crank the engine over.
When the battery is good, this thing fires at the touch of the button, but it devolves with loss of voltage.
I'm sure something simple is staring me in the face, but what? I'm beginning to think the voltage issue might be the key to my absence of power. I'm not getting how it's killing a battery in one pass, either. I've been under the impression that a good RV/Marine battery could sustain a set-up like mine without an alternator and simply externally charging between rounds, and I know this will barely get me from the pits to the lanes, let alone a full pass and drive down the return road.

Re: What's killing my battery? [Re: bill_greenwood] #1673510
09/18/14 04:58 AM
09/18/14 04:58 AM
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
Swedcharger67 Offline
enthusiast
Swedcharger67  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 208
Norrland, Sweden
Not sure how you measure the charging? If you are just measuring the voltage, this will tell you very little about the actual battery charging.

The only thing that can tell you about the battery charging is an ammeter. Current is charging a battery, not the voltage, this is why battery capacity is given in Amp-hours. You can have high voltage and little to no current at the same time.

If you expect big charging current you can use an ammeter with a shunt. There is also hand-held clamp on ammeters available.


Martin, 67 Charger, 512 cui, E85, MegaSquirt MS3X sequential ignition & injection
Re: What's killing my battery? [Re: Swedcharger67] #1673511
09/18/14 05:12 AM
09/18/14 05:12 AM
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,128
sweden
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sshemi Offline
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sshemi  Offline
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sweden
The clamp ons is what i preffer. I too had a battery going out in a short while. I had 14 volts at idle but negative current to the batt.
I simply needed a bigger capacity alternator.
Was very easy to trace the problem with a clamp on amp gauge.
+ with one like that you can test every electrical component for amp draw.

Re: What's killing my battery? [Re: bill_greenwood] #1673512
09/18/14 10:56 AM
09/18/14 10:56 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
Master
MR_P_BODY  Offline
Master

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
With the engine off what do you have for a battery
reading.. then fire up the engine and take a idle
reading.. then bring up the revs and take another..
tell us what you have... what is the output of the alt..
you can have a bad diode in the diode bridge and will
still show output but it'll be low... to see if you
have a draw when the switch is off.. pull the hot lead
off the battery and put your test light between the
hot post and the battery cable.. that will tell you
if you have a draw (the light will light up)

Re: What's killing my battery? [Re: MR_P_BODY] #1673513
09/18/14 11:04 AM
09/18/14 11:04 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,711
Portage,michigan
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B3422W5 Offline
I Live Here
B3422W5  Offline
I Live Here
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 11,711
Portage,michigan
Sounds like a shorted diode in your alternator. That condition will kill a battery quickly.


69 Dart GTS A4 Silver All steel, flat factory hood, 3360race weight
418 BPE factory replacement headed stroker, 565 lift solid cam
Best so far, 10.40 @127 1/4
1.41 best 60 foot
6.60 at 103.90 1/8

Re: What's killing my battery? [Re: bill_greenwood] #1673514
09/18/14 11:06 AM
09/18/14 11:06 AM
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 167
maryland
7
74yellowduster Offline
member
74yellowduster  Offline
member
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 167
maryland
a loose connector will draw extra power. it acts like a resistor the connector will heat up and eventually melt. prior to melting down, it will draw more and more power as time goes on. you have to check the ground wires too.

could be electric fuel pump connections, alt connections, coil, dist, ecu, etc.

you need to check all of them remove the tarnish (grab your girlfriends emery fingernail board or some sandpaper) clean all the connectors up. fix any loosies. with it running you can maybe find what connectors are heating up. they wont zap you except for the coil & plug wires (ouch)

the main culprits are usually wires that run close to headers. neutral safety switch, etc.

Last edited by 74yellowduster; 09/18/14 11:08 AM.






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