So whats the # that would make you give up trying to make 40yr old iron hold 600+ hp???? 4k? 3k? 2k? ...I think if someone could manufacture an aluminum block that sold between 2-3k they could do well selling them.

within 20% of the Chevy equivalent and the words "In Stock" at major vendors instead of 6-52 week wait

between 2 and 3 i am in

Give Russ a call @ Indy their I indymax is alive and well

At that price I'll take two and redo my coffee table in my living room.

I think if you could sell an iron block at 1995 and an aluminum block at 2995, you couldn't keep them in stock. It doesn't need to be some killer piece, just something that'll handle 1000hp and/or a consistent 4.40 bore without driving over the crank or coming out of the restaurant to your car in a puddle of coolant.

I personally don't care if it takes 40 weeks to get, I can plan ahead and I'm not manic/depressive. S/F.....Ken M

It was a surprisingly simple question that seemed to ignite the debate in the other thread...As many of us on here do, I race on a budget.

If you look at the Gen3 Hemi builds...all those are with the stock block at +700hp. I have seen the new aluminum blocks for sale, but have yet to see any builds with them. And honestly, I would switch to one if they weren't so costly. A stroker kit at $2700 is pretty steep, and at only 392 to 426 cubes, it just doesn't make sense yet...

It would be great if everyone could afford a new $5k block...But the way I look at it, on a good running race engine, eventually something fails...What's really left of it when it does. On the last 5-6 failures I have seen, the block never survives, nor the cam, rods or pistons... And if you sell the race car, its worth pennies on the dollar and everyone low balls you on it.

I think that 4K for a finished block would fly big time
and if it was available in a TIMELY manor.. even 2 months
would be fine

People are so funny.......

What do you think you would get for $1900? You would get a pile of junk. Just be smart with what your doing. Take that extra $1900 and spend it on good light weight parts and you will be shocked with what you can do.

Why do you think a after market block is so much better that a stock block anyways????? Do you remember the first gen Hemi blocks??? Lifters were popping out of those things like popcorn!!

When an engine goes pop how many times is it truly the block at fault?? Run a good main cap, replace your main studs on a regular bases and that will help a tone. I can say I have had faulty MSD units cause more damage than a stock block ever would.

Just be smart and reasonable with what your doing and half of your problems will go away.

If you can get me an aluminum small block, 9.6" deck, will take a 4.18 bore water block I'd be in at $3k.

aluminum block 2995, 543 stroker 2200,sidewinder heads 1000,under 6000 all the big componets,under 8000 complete carb to pan,wake me up im dreamin

Hey, The Other block talk wasn't finished yet. Complete that before you start another block post.

With all the info you got, what year was that 400 block in your other block post?


To the Current, block post. $2000 and Im in, if not IO will keep playing with the stockers. I have enough to last my lifetime. A Aluminum block would be sweet though.

Jegs:

Bow tie chevy BB: $2200-2400
World Merlin: $2200+
Ford Motorsport, Siamese bore 4 bolt BB $2550
Current production modular stuff: $1000 and up
Mopar prostock stuff: $7500+(!?)

So realistically, probably $2500 is more in line with current pricing.

Question: Would going to a bedplate style bottom end (Donovan 417, Neon 2.0) resolve the issues with the BB Mopar and fretting? Which even the Megablocks have. S/F.....Ken M

I wouldn't trust an aluminum block that was only $3000, even for street/strip use. Aluminum stock has a cost people. But keep dreamin......

well if someone showed up at my shop by this weekend, I would unload this new mega block on them for 2500 . I just finished my Indy maxx block and drove my race car out of the shop today. Im not doing another engine for the rest of the year. And yes I blew up 2 oem blocks in the last 2 years. Thus I now have 3 aftermarket blocks. OEM is just a time bomb when trying to make power with a stock cast, they blow up when you least expect it and take everything out inside of it.

Ok folks...since we are all just pipe dreaming...lowdeck or RB?...and I would think we should stick with aluminum but it's up to you all..

rb aluminum please