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You must of had a lot of slop in the old bushings for the new bushings to bring the rear closer to the front. You could use some shims in front of the front spring perch mounts, but I feel a shorter drive shaft would be better. Keep that rear axle as far forward as possible.

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Do you have a trans yoke laying around, if so slide
it in and measure it.. in my trans book it calls for
3/4" to 1" and thats what I use... its just enough to give
you the room you need and so you can get it out...
you wont be moving as much with the caltracs

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The yoke slips on the trans about 2" and is bottomed out so I have room and I will measure 2x to be sure.The u joint cap on the back will not slide over by 1/2 the cap width so if I take 1" off the shaft the cap will have 1/2" extra room to slide over the tab on the rear yoke.I appreciate the help.
ps:You are saying that the front yoke can have 3/4 to 1" fit on the trans shaft which would make the front of the yoke just inside of the rear seal and I would think we don't want it going in/out of it with pinion rise/dip so another 3/8 would be nice.I will get some measurement to help confirm the process.

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Do you have a trans yoke laying around, if so slide
it in and measure it.. in my trans book it calls for
3/4" to 1" and thats what I use... its just enough to give
you the room you need and so you can get it out...
you wont be moving as much with the caltracs

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The yoke slips on the trans about 2" and is bottomed out so I have room and I will measure 2x to be sure.The u joint cap on the back will not slide over by 1/2 the cap width so if I take 1" off the shaft the cap will have 1/2" extra room to slide over the tab on the rear yoke.I appreciate the help.
ps:You are saying that the front yoke can have 3/4 to 1" fit on the trans shaft which would make the front of the yoke just inside of the rear seal and I would think we don't want it going in/out of it with pinion rise/dip so another 3/8 would be nice.I will get some measurement to help confirm the process.

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When you say caps on the rear U-joint.. you dont
mean those alum caps do you... IF SO.. get rid of
them.. they WILL bind on the shaft... yeah they look
all nice and fancy but they are junk.. either use
the U bolts or the straps and bolts for which ever
style you run... on my race car I use the straps and
bolts but on the Rampage(9") I use the U bolts

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Get yourself a Different yoke. My yoke slides on to about 5.75",s There is no way I would shorten that drive shaft using that yoke that only engages about 2.5",s from what I see in the pics.

If you have a cell phone that accepts pics I could show you some pics of mine.

I didnt know they had your style type yoke.

EDIT, or if you want to picture it in your head, the picture of your yoke at 4.5" it would be bottoming out against the rear seal of the tranny when installed.
Ive got a Spare if you want one.

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I just slipped on an old yoke from another shaft and it went on all the way like yours so it is my yoke that is bad.

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I just slipped on an old yoke from another shaft and it went on all the way like yours so it is my yoke that is bad.

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Yes it's the yoke , there must be a burr of some sort in there stopping it from going on further ?

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I agree!!!I cleaned the splines of the yoke but did not see it YET.I will keep looking.

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Measure the depth of the inner Yoke splines. I noticed on your Mancini yoke the splines start immediatly and they dont look to deep.

The stock one I have , the splines dont start for about a inch, but then go much deeper.

You could have a burr, or you could actually be bottoming out at your yokes inner depth. Measure it and see what you get.

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I will inspect the splines but it should slide in more like I said.IMO.

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i have a 727 and a 1350 after market yoke in my car I will go out in the garage see how fare mine goes in ill get back to you

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my yoke is 4 7/8 long it went all the way in
your cars drive shaft might have never went all the in and with all that horse power and torque and heavy car it twisted it how it wont go in

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Your current shaft appears to actually be to short IMO based on the wear pattern on your yoke and also knowing how much more useable Depth your car wasnt using in the first place. That probably also helped lead to twisted splines, along with your past axel bind up from rotation.

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I know!LOL Now I gotta make it longer. I think using a good yoke I can use the shaft I have with the 3" of spline it slides on.

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Your current shaft appears to actually be to short IMO based on the wear pattern on your yoke and also knowing how much more useable Depth your car wasnt using in the first place. That probably also helped lead to twisted splines, along with your past axel bind up from rotation.

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I know!LOL Now I gotta make it longer. I think using a good yoke I can use the shaft I have with the 3" of spline it slides on.

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With the slop in the splines I wouldnt call it good
with that much out... sorry but your gonna need a
new shaft..... the more its out the more the yoke
and drive shaft can be off center... but its your
ride.. its up to you

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Your current shaft appears to actually be to short IMO based on the wear pattern on your yoke and also knowing how much more useable Depth your car wasnt using in the first place. That probably also helped lead to twisted splines, along with your past axel bind up from rotation.

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I know!LOL Now I gotta make it longer. I think using a good yoke I can use the shaft I have with the 3" of spline it slides on.

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With the slop in the splines I wouldnt call it good
with that much out... sorry but your gonna need a
new shaft..... the more its out the more the yoke
and drive shaft can be off center... but its your
ride.. its up to you

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I am just saying,I have used the DS with the spline length like it is for 6yrs I think now.I will think hard on what you said tho.

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I tried to read it but it didn't say if you had the clavert mono springs as well? As mine could come apart and there were holes to move the rear a inch.

If so you might look into that aspect.

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I measured and as in this picture I can only get another 1/2" more spline so I don't think making the DS longer will help with anything.

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Right now all your spline engagement is at the snout of the yoke, furthest out. Id like to see it closer to the u-joint. 3" of engagement at the end of the snout is much different then 3" of engagement deeper into the yoke.

Your 6.5" yoke depth cant be correct, from your measurement pics, that depth would be a inch into your Ujoint.

You have gotten by 6 years or so with the current setup. But it has twisted your yoke splines from not being ideal.

In those 6 years how many passes? 6 like Thumper Just kidding Mike/Thump

IMO, you know its not the best setup. Nows a good time to fix it for good. Or it could last another 6 years.

As already stated, 1" max, IMO from the yoke bottoming out from the trans. It looks like your 3",s out from that.

I say do it now Mike By the way, I like Custom Clutch and joint. They did my driveshaft down here in canton, for like $125 complete. I supplied the ends.

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Measure the depth of the inner Yoke splines. I noticed on your Mancini yoke the splines start immediatly and they dont look to deep.

The stock one I have , the splines dont start for about a inch, but then go much deeper.

You could have a burr, or you could actually be bottoming out at your yokes inner depth. Measure it and see what you get.

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I measure about 6.5" depth and the splines go almost all the way in.[see pic]^

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Yep, Im looking at your pic.