UPDATE:

I put the new TTI drivers side header in. It fits MUCH better


The new jig header has improved #1 routing. It kicks further forward (towards the front of the car) before turning back. This helps it clear the Borgeson box in my car.


First Driver's side header: motor was sitting on the header on the Borgeson box. Situation was improved with grinding on the box and denting the header significantly. Motor was still sitting on header/power steering box (wasn't seated fully in motor mount). Ran it like that for ~4,000 miles.


NEW JIG HEADER: Motor seated all the way in the motor mount on the first try. I still dinged the new header in a couple places, but it probably wasn't necessary.


For those of you looking to use the TTI headers specific for the Borgeson box in an A Body, I say do it. Depending on your K frame, you might need to dent it in a few places, or it might drop right in. It is a very tight fit.


TTI also recommends elongating the mounting holes on the borgeson box to move it further towards the fender - I did not do this modification.


Notes on installing these headers in a 73+ k frame (spool mount A body): Drop the motor in place without the headers in the car (and without the steering shaft coming into the engine compartment). Next, put the borgeson box in place, but don't bolt it down. Lift the motor up a few inches (leave tranny attached to car), and work the headers in from underneath. Having the borgeson box loose will make the job a lot easier.


Big thanks to Peter Bergman of Bergman Auto Craft for taking care of me and big thanks to TTI for sending the newly jigged header.

Pics from test fit without gasket:







#1 cylinder top bolt hole still doesn't line up:





Hard to see, but the header tube makes it around the box:





I trimmed this spot on the block, as well as a portion of the engine mount. Clearance was gained without a gasket. Not sure it was needed once the gasket went in, but I did it anyway. Note the header tube is sitting on the engine mount in this pic. Clearance was gained when a gasket went in.





If you haven't picked up on the underlying principle here:

There isn't much room for a header tube through here! After having made a set of headers, used the first jig headers, and now these, I think TTI put it in the #1 tube in the best possible place (mirrors the #1 tube on the set of shorties I made the first go-round).

Thanks for the pics.
Still looks like a very close call, but not impossible it seems.
I wonder how long the left motormount will survive with that heatsource so close on top of it.

Personally I'm not 'ready' yet to rip out hundreds of dollars for a set of tubes so I'll be still inclined to fab my own.
Same goes for the motormounts. Will still want to make them myself aswell and maybe I can use a partly thinner base plate on the engine side to gain a bit more clearance.

Now if they would only make the 1 7/8 header with the 6.4 flange.

Last time I talked to them they said they had no intention of making the smaller header for the 6.4. The 2" in the A Body is absolutely ridiculous.

IMO, Emil did it right. Bought shelf headers and made his own mounts. The possible fitment 'issues' with these TTI's will mostly be related to K member tolerances. What better way to fix that than to buy a shelf header that fits the motor, box, and TB's, and then fab mounts to nail the alignment down to an 1/8th inch.

The first set of headers I made took way too much effort and materials were over $400 (for Shorties!). They DID fit with a factory power steering box though.