|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1661353
08/29/14 06:42 PM
08/29/14 06:42 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi
Penguin-hating Ginger
|
Penguin-hating Ginger
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
|
Quote:
If I had a press,
<cough>
<cough>
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: PHJ426]
#1661355
08/29/14 07:15 PM
08/29/14 07:15 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
|
Quote:
Actually I have done the LCA bushing removal without a press. Been awhile but get the largest size threaded rod that fits through the LCA bushing, some pipe nipples the inner LCA bushing can be pushed into, then a pipe reducer bushing of some kind to step that into or a pipe cap with a hole for the threaded rod to pass through, an assortment of washers and nuts.
You can push the old center of the bushing out like that with an impact. If I stumble upon this in my toolbox I will post a picture of it.
This will leave the original LCA bushing shell in the LCA if you do it right. If your replacing with OEM rubber LCA bushing then you can bend the shell of the bushing in with some chisels and a persuader.
Don't let not having a press intimidate you.
Too bad I don't have threaded rod, pipe nipples (  ), a pipe reducer bushing, or an impact. 
They're not rubber bushing. They're Hotchkis' polyurethane bushings.
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1661356
08/29/14 08:53 PM
08/29/14 08:53 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302
Nebraska
72Swinger
master
|
master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 4,302
Nebraska
|
I did mine with a Benzomatic in the alley......
Mopar to the bone!!!
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1661357
08/29/14 09:24 PM
08/29/14 09:24 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,456
Fly Over States
PHJ426
master
|
master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,456
Fly Over States
|
Quote:
Quote:
Actually I have done the LCA bushing removal without a press. Been awhile but get the largest size threaded rod that fits through the LCA bushing, some pipe nipples the inner LCA bushing can be pushed into, then a pipe reducer bushing of some kind to step that into or a pipe cap with a hole for the threaded rod to pass through, an assortment of washers and nuts.
You can push the old center of the bushing out like that with an impact. If I stumble upon this in my toolbox I will post a picture of it.
This will leave the original LCA bushing shell in the LCA if you do it right. If your replacing with OEM rubber LCA bushing then you can bend the shell of the bushing in with some chisels and a persuader.
Don't let not having a press intimidate you.
Too bad I don't have threaded rod, pipe nipples ( ), a pipe reducer bushing, or an impact.
They're not rubber bushing. They're Hotchkis' polyurethane bushings.
You first have to remove the factory rubber bushings before installing the poly....
They do have hardware stores by your house? You can put all that together at a local Home Depot or Ace for well under $15.00
An Impact can be rented or just muscle it out with a 1/2" breaker bar.....
Since your going with the Poly bushing you need to leave the outer sleeve in the LCA for the poly to be pressed into.
I just pulled a set of rubber bushing out of a rack and pinion rack using the above described method once again last week. These were smaller and I used a larger 1/2" drive socket to push the bushing into....used a 3/8" ratchet and a combination wrench to muscle them out ....it's not that difficult .
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: PHJ426]
#1661358
08/31/14 01:05 AM
08/31/14 01:05 AM
|
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
|
So I got a lot of work done today. I called my friend over, he's got a '71 Demon, and in 4 hours we tore apart the entire front and rear suspension. The car is a hovercraft now.  Anyways, when I was taking apart the front, I noticed the LCA bump stop was just chilling on the driver's side and the spot welds that held that bracket on the LCA had broke. Luckily I've got extras or could have my friend reweld them on. I figure since the LCA's are out, I might as well get stiffening plates. We also are going to have to make new lines in the front. The fittings that connect to the front brake hoses were rounded off so we had to cut the line. The way we're probably going to do it is run the line around the core support to clean up the firewall a bit. We might even add a line lock just for fun. Besides that, there were really no bad issues. Everything was pretty straight forward. I've got a lot of degreasing to do under there because it's disgusting. We were black afterwards.  A friend of mine also has some Bullit Mustang wheels lying in his garage. They're 17 x 8" and have 245/45/17's on the front and possibly 275/40/17's on the rear so they'd be good wheels for a mach up. Next weekend, we'll probably install the rear end and leaf springs. I just have to remember that anything I order, I have to make sure it gets in by Friday. So things on the To Do List... 1) Degrease/clean 2) Plate and install new bushings in the LCA's 3) Redo the front lines and possibly add a line lock 4) Install 8 3/4 rear end with leaf springs. 5) Cut and balance driveshaft 6) Install front suspension and brakes 7) Borrow friends Bullit Mustang wheels and measure wheel size. I just have a couple questions... Since I'm going to be ordering some parts, should I install new/smaller bump stops? Does anyone know which bumpstops to purchase from Summit? I found these Energy Suspension ones for the LCA's, I believe... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-9121g None are in stock apparently so can/should I hold off on that? Also, for sure, do I need a distribution block? I can just insert a T-fitting for the fronts and have my rear lines continue to the rear? Does anyone know where I can purchase some CAM bolts? Mine are pretty greasy and gunked up. Is there anything else you think I'm forgetting or you would like to add? Thanks for all your help and support. 
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: PHJ426]
#1661360
08/31/14 06:13 PM
08/31/14 06:13 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
|
Quote:
Line lock is not required if you have the HP to turn the tires you should have enough HP do a standard brake torque to slip past the drum brake. Unless your engine is making extremely low HP and your installing some 11 inch slicks in the rear I think your fine without it.
I would use the factory bump stops since your going will all stock components.
Well, I do plan/hope on fitting a 255 to 275 series tire under there. Still not sure about future engine and trans possibilities.
I just thought I should probably get shorter LCA bumpstops since I'll be lowering the front of my car at least an inch or so.
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: 72Swinger]
#1661361
09/02/14 01:28 AM
09/02/14 01:28 AM
|
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,118
85086
moparpollack
Lil Herman
|
Lil Herman
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,118
85086
|
Quote:
I did mine with a Benzomatic in the alley......
My friend was a front end and frame mechanic for forty years it's the only way to do it.
As far as taking it apart it unscrews and a BFH des the rest.
It is to far now but why not only do one end at a time? 
56 Plaza 63 D100 step side 67 Coronet, 68 Roadrunner, 69 Super Bees, 69 Coronet 500 convertible, 70 Roadrunner Post, 79 D150 360, and a severe case of Mopar a,d,d
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: moparpollack]
#1661362
09/02/14 01:39 AM
09/02/14 01:39 AM
|
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
|
Quote:
It is to far now but why not only do one end at a time?
It was a spur of the moment decision. We wanted to get as much work done as possible so each of us worked on either side of the car. Anyways, it wouldn't have mattered because then one side would have been bbp while the other sbp.
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1661363
09/02/14 12:39 PM
09/02/14 12:39 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,067
Irving, TX
feets
Senior Management
|
Senior Management
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,067
Irving, TX
|
Don't let it stall. Get that car back on the ground ASAP.
We are brothers and sisters doing time on the planet for better or worse. I'll take the better, if you don't mind.
- Stu Harmon
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: feets]
#1661364
09/02/14 08:47 PM
09/02/14 08:47 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,323
NY NY
340duster340
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,323
NY NY
|
Quote:
Don't let it stall. Get that car back on the ground ASAP.
agreed 4 jack stands = kiss of death for many projects
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: 340duster340]
#1661365
09/02/14 11:14 PM
09/02/14 11:14 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
|
Quote:
Quote:
Don't let it stall. Get that car back on the ground ASAP.
agreed 4 jack stands = kiss of death for many projects
I know... I know... The added pressure doesn't help. I'm still a little scarred from the last time I did the brakes. The plans for Friday are installing the 8 3/4 (w/ leaf springs of course) and getting a majority of the lines figured out and redone.
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: feets]
#1661367
09/03/14 03:04 AM
09/03/14 03:04 AM
|
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
|
Quote:
Leave the rear end alone. That's the easy bit.
Get the hard stuff out of the way now while you have a bit of momentum.
Define "hard stuff" so I have an idea of what I should be worried about.
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1661368
09/03/14 05:09 PM
09/03/14 05:09 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,067
Irving, TX
feets
Senior Management
|
Senior Management
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,067
Irving, TX
|
The rear diff, springs, and brakes are easy. You can knock that out in an hour if you know what you're doing and have all the parts.
The front end is more complicated due to having more fiddly bits and dealing with alignment. A seasoned pro can knock one out quickly but someone just starting out will likely take a full day once everything is on hand.
One thing I will suggest is a quick and dirty alignment. Once the tires look like they are more or less straight up and down you need to look at toe.
Lift each front tire off the ground. Grab a screwdriver and hold it steady. Spin the tire and let the pointy tip of the screwdriver drag along the tire somewhere in the middle of the tread. Done right it will scribe a line around the tire.
Do this on both sides.
Put the car on the ground and bounce the suspension a bit to settle things.
Slide a tape measure under the car to your friend on the other side.
Measure the distance between the marks on the tires in the front and rear. Adjust your tie rods until the measurements are the same.
*POOF*
You just did a quickie alignment good enough to get you to an alignment shop without trashing your new tires.
Note that the marks do not have to be on the same portion of the tread for left and right. As long as you scribe a perfect ring and don't wobble about you're fine.
We are brothers and sisters doing time on the planet for better or worse. I'll take the better, if you don't mind.
- Stu Harmon
|
|
|
Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: feets]
#1661369
09/03/14 06:43 PM
09/03/14 06:43 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
BigBlockMopar
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
|
Quote:
...
Put the car on the ground and bounce the suspension a bit to settle things.
...
I would add to roll the car forward and backward a few feet before the front suspension and wheels take a settling.
|
|
|
|
|
