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Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: 72Swinger]
#1661330
08/21/14 03:38 AM
08/21/14 03:38 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
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OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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Quote:
On the wheels I would get 4 fronts and just use thin billet spacers on the rear. The ability to rotate front to back helps a ton on the pocket book.
That would be great. My only worry is how "thin" the spacer will need to be.
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Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1661336
08/22/14 10:08 PM
08/22/14 10:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,482
Lake Orion, MI
goldduster318
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,482
Lake Orion, MI
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Assuming you have the 73+ A-body knuckles, you just want to order the parts for a '73 Dart 318
Inner Tie Rod:ES401L
Outer Tie Rod:ES401R
Left Lower Ball Joint: K783
Right Lower Ball Joint: K781
'70 Duster 470hp 340/T56 Magnum/8 3/4 3.23 Sure-Grip
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Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: OzHemi]
#1661338
08/22/14 10:42 PM
08/22/14 10:42 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
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Quote:
Don't forget to compare the price of them at Amazon too..with free prime shipping, it can work out cheaper than Rock at times depending on what the stuff is and where rock is shipping it from. 
That's what I was just doing; however, my sister would have to order them because I don't have a prime account. They seem to be the same price but with no shipping.
So, this is what I got,
LCA Ball Joint:
Left Lower, #K7023
Right Lower, #K7021
or
Left Lower, #K787
Right Lower, #K785
I can't seem to notice a difference on these besides part number...
Idler Arm:
#K7042
Pitman Arm:
#K7074
Does anyone know if I put 1 in the quantity that 2 idler/pitman arms will show up or do I have to put 2 in the quantity?
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Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: goldduster318]
#1661339
08/22/14 10:43 PM
08/22/14 10:43 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
|
Quote:
Assuming you have the 73+ A-body knuckles, you just want to order the parts for a '73 Dart 318
Inner Tie Rod:ES401L
Outer Tie Rod:ES401R
Left Lower Ball Joint: K783
Right Lower Ball Joint: K781
Doh... Totally forgot to mention I was using 73+ A-body knuckles. Thanks for catching me.
Now, the TVS comes with adjustable tie rods, does that mean I'm not going to need one of the two tie rods?
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Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1661340
08/22/14 10:45 PM
08/22/14 10:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,482
Lake Orion, MI
goldduster318
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,482
Lake Orion, MI
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Quote:
Quote:
Don't forget to compare the price of them at Amazon too..with free prime shipping, it can work out cheaper than Rock at times depending on what the stuff is and where rock is shipping it from.
That's what I was just doing; however, my sister would have to order them because I don't have a prime account. They seem to be the same price but with no shipping.
So, this is what I got,
LCA Ball Joint:
Left Lower, #K7023
Right Lower, #K7021
or
Left Lower, #K787
Right Lower, #K785
I can't seem to notice a difference on these besides part number...
Idler Arm:
#K7042
Pitman Arm:
#K7074
Does anyone know if I put 1 in the quantity that 2 idler/pitman arms will show up or do I have to put 2 in the quantity?
You only need 1 idler arm and 1 pitman arm per car. Pitman is on the steering box, idler is on the k-frame. You were probably thinking tie rod ends.
All parts sold individually
'70 Duster 470hp 340/T56 Magnum/8 3/4 3.23 Sure-Grip
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Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: goldduster318]
#1661341
08/22/14 10:47 PM
08/22/14 10:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,482
Lake Orion, MI
goldduster318
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,482
Lake Orion, MI
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So...In your case just so we're clear.
Pitman and Idler arm for your original application, '68 Dart
Tie rods could be for either '68 or '73, they are the same
Lower Ball joints are 73 with disk brakes.
Hope your TVS has the large ball joints for the later application.
'70 Duster 470hp 340/T56 Magnum/8 3/4 3.23 Sure-Grip
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Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: goldduster318]
#1661342
08/22/14 11:05 PM
08/22/14 11:05 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Don't forget to compare the price of them at Amazon too..with free prime shipping, it can work out cheaper than Rock at times depending on what the stuff is and where rock is shipping it from.
That's what I was just doing; however, my sister would have to order them because I don't have a prime account. They seem to be the same price but with no shipping.
So, this is what I got,
LCA Ball Joint:
Left Lower, #K7023
Right Lower, #K7021
or
Left Lower, #K787
Right Lower, #K785
I can't seem to notice a difference on these besides part number...
Idler Arm:
#K7042
Pitman Arm:
#K7074
Does anyone know if I put 1 in the quantity that 2 idler/pitman arms will show up or do I have to put 2 in the quantity?
You only need 1 idler arm and 1 pitman arm per car. Pitman is on the steering box, idler is on the k-frame. You were probably thinking tie rod ends.
All parts sold individually
Just to make sure I get this right. This is a a front end assembly out of '71 Demon I have at home... The TVS comes with adjustable tie rods, tubular UCA (for larger ball joints), and strut rods. So would I need to replace the inner and outers? What's considered the inner and outers?
Here's a link to the TVS instructions manual. If I think, what you think, the inner and outer tie rods are, I don't think I need them...
http://www.hotchkis.net/_uploaded_files/80113.pdf
Last edited by MuuMuu101; 08/22/14 11:10 PM.
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Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1661343
08/22/14 11:08 PM
08/22/14 11:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,482
Lake Orion, MI
goldduster318
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,482
Lake Orion, MI
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Yeah, you got it.
So you'd only need idler and pitman arms and some lower ball joints. I forgot about the full TVS having the rod end tie rod setup. I wasn't planning on using that on my own car (buying components only)
'70 Duster 470hp 340/T56 Magnum/8 3/4 3.23 Sure-Grip
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Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: MuuMuu101]
#1661345
08/23/14 11:55 AM
08/23/14 11:55 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,067
Irving, TX
feets
Senior Management
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Senior Management
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,067
Irving, TX
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The tie rod assembly you have circled is made up of an inner tie rod, an adjusting sleeve, and an outer tie rod. If you're rebuilding your front end it makes sense to replace these parts. The joints will get sloppy with wear, just like a ball joint. 
We are brothers and sisters doing time on the planet for better or worse. I'll take the better, if you don't mind.
- Stu Harmon
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Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: feets]
#1661346
08/23/14 01:47 PM
08/23/14 01:47 PM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
|
Quote:
The tie rod assembly you have circled is made up of an inner tie rod, an adjusting sleeve, and an outer tie rod.
If you're rebuilding your front end it makes sense to replace these parts. The joints will get sloppy with wear, just like a ball joint.
I figured that out when I took a look at them in the garage but the TVS comes with tie rods...
http://www.hotchkis.net/mopar_abody_adjustable_steering_rod_kit.html
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Re: Hotchkis TVS, Brakes, and Rear End Install
[Re: RylisPro]
#1661349
08/28/14 02:14 AM
08/28/14 02:14 AM
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
MuuMuu101
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
|
OP
I got lucky at Woodward!
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 12,375
SoCal
|
Quote:
The front end is easy if you have the correct suspension tools. I have the American Muscle Suspension Tool kit and its a piece of cake!
Yeah, I know I don't have the right tools. Looking at that kit, I don't know how many of those I'd need right now besides maybe the T-bar remover, LCA sleeve remover, and LCA pivot remover. I probably should order it and try to get it in soon. I think I'm going to get stuck on this portion because of lack of tools unless I can try borrowing some from a friend.
How do you remove the lock ring on the T-bars? Should I be installing new boots?
Would it be a bad idea to just remove the UCA, brake, and spindle assembly as one piece just for ease? I'm not going to be reusing any of those parts for the Dart.
I found these videos to be pretty decent refrences...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YNoYLVX7TE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lxi_bOTfrM0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZ-K6BiKido
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I saved the picture on my laptop.
