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Exciting stuff!

Suspension and chassis:
Have you recently replaced ball joints and pitman/idler arms? And are you using factory LCA's? You could brace the LCA's (AR Engineering kit from firm feel). You could also weld up and brace the k member, if you want to go so far as to take it out (AR engineering kit from firm feel)

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Brakes:
I'm not familiar with the piston sizes in those brembo calipers. The cobra calipers are well sized for the rear. I would recommend no distribution block. Just a straight line back. And a t fitting for the front.
Find out front piston sizes and run the math sheet.
Your master may be fine. I run a 15/16 2 bolt I got from dr diff. The 15/16 might be a better size for you. Though If I were you, I would start with the master you have and change if you feel you need it after running.
Rear brakes: I run braided lines to my rear calipers for ease of working on them. Did dr diff send you a set? If not, see if the front braided brake line part number will work (I used same PN braided on all 4).

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Wheels:
You're going to have to nail your back spacing if you're going to get 275/35/18's to fit square. I'm unfamiliar with 2 piece wheels- but don't you need new cylinders to change offset? Sounds expensive to swap sets?
What size wheels do you have now? How do they fit?
I run 265/40/18 square on the street (I like the taller tire), and 275/35 fit as well. I'm running +45mm offset in the front(7.2" back spacing), and they rub the frame and the wheel well at about the same time (around 1.25 turn of wheel). I lost turning radius. If you don't go so low, you can run less offset.
The rears are tight as well both inner and outer wheel tubs have tire rub marks from tire rubbing. 60.5" width rear with +45mm offset there as well. Also running dr diff offset leaf spring hangers (would be in leaf springs if not)

Cheap way to find perfect fit is to get a high offset wheel of the size and tire you want, and use spacers until you find the 'perfect' location in the wheel well. Subtract the spacer width from the offset and you're done. Where are you located? I have a 18x9.5 +45 spare laying around.

Hope that helps a bit.

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So, story on the wheels... OzHemi's has a wheel "guy" who supplies him outters. I believe, the same guy also took a set of the centers on OzHemi's Torana and decided to replicate and manufacture a cast set of them. I've seen his ad on CL a couple months ago, but he stated I could get any width between 4-13" (or something) for the 18" wheel, any offset, in any bolt pattern for $1650. So, pretty good deal. If he doesn't have the cast centers anymore, OzHemi also has a supplier for forged centers and I'll just have to bite the bullet and get those. Only problem with going with off the shelf wheels is that I think the rears are going to need less of an offset than the fronts since it's an A-body rear and not a B-body. I just measured and it's ~58.5" rotor-to-rotor.

With regarding to tire size, I know it's doable. If it's going to be that difficult to get a 275/35/18 on there, I can go one step down to 265/35/18 (losing some sidewall) or I can probably try to fit a 255/40/18 which may offer a more comfortable ride.

Now, on my Stealth, I do have some aftermarket wheels on them. They're MSW Type 11's. I don't recall completely but I think they were 17x7's or 17x8's with 5.7 bs (45mm or 38 mm offset). I was using 245/45/17 wheels on that. I could probably tell my mechanic to remove one of them and I could try using one as a mach up; however, I'm not sure if they'll fit on the fronts with the big brakes or center register. If they do fit, I could probably just put some new tires on those and hold off on wheels for awhile.
http://www.ozracing.com/car_wheels_var/MSW/25190/AVANTGARDE/MSW%2011/25536.aspx#

I'm located in Covina, CA 91724.

Thanks for your help.

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I just did what you are about to do to your car earlier this year. I had a local shop tackle most of the suspension stuff though but here are some suggestions. Mind you I have an Ebody but pretty much using similar parts

Front end Hotchkis:
Get some grade 8 or higher button head bolts for the tie rods because you might need them in case you need clearance at the wheel due to the tie rod bumpsteer spacers. I ended up not using the hotchkis aluminum spacers and was able to get shorter steel spacers at the hardware store. I am using a 10.5" wheel so you might not need this for a narrower combo. I would also get the rubber booties for the rod ends as well.


brakes:
I used an aluminum MC from a dodge truck but I have hydroboost though. The pedal feel is great but I can't heel toe anymore as it grabs way too quick. I just changed my driving style. I still have to swap to Carbotechs

Cass sent me another distribution block to use, I would email him again.

8 3/4:
only thing I did different was get 1350 u joints on both ends.

wheels:
I would get 2 rain wheels and tires with deepest offset and using a variety of aluminum spacers to find the exact offset you need front and rear. You might be surprised that a wider tire might fit! I rolled my fenders too.


Hope that helps!

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I wish I had a lathe handy because I could probably make my own steel spacers if needed be. As for the rod end boots, I already purchased a set and they came in on Monday.

Was the front disc kit supposed to come with a distribution block? If so, I didn't get one. I was holding off on ordering it till I figured out how it works, but I like uhcoog1's idea for just having a T for the front and a line that goes to the back.

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To OP, I also use 1350's, but in all honesty, I think they are overkill for non drag use. I suspect though 1330 alternatives are slim, and 1310 not an upgrade from OEM.

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The front and rear suspension installation is a weekend project.
If you were closer I'd swing by and help you knock it out.

The rear brakes lines will require a double flare tool to attach them to the calipers. You will need to find a flexible (rubber or (preferably) braided) line to connect each side to the calipers. That will allow them to move about (they are sliders) without breaking the line.

I've got everything you need to do the install and the shop space to do it.
Bring it on out here and we'll get it done.

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Well, a weekend project for most people is like a 2-4 week project for me.

I've got at least one friend who has the double flare tool that could probably help me out. And the kit came with rubber lines.

I wish I could bring it out but I don't think work would be too happy with me taking a 1 week vacation with the mess that's going on. Plus I don't have a truck and trailer.

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With getting the right back spacing...you can also get an idea what you think will work, then just have him heat the outer up and drop the center in without welding it. You can try it out and he can move it around as needed until you get it spot on then they can be together.

When I had the initial set built for the Torana.. I had a center I bolted onto the car and some slightly oversized (ID diameter) outers that I could slide back and forth and got it just where I wanted it.

I have a spare set of wheels here too that I had made with the last of the forged centers, and went with the wider in back and slightly changed the back spacing on too. Just haven't gotten around to the wider tires yet.

If you didn't have wheel studs you could hold a wheel of mine under there...with the 265/35-18's on them. (no studs since mine is 5 on 4 3/4" of course )

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Is your wheel guy still making the cast wheels?

And as for your wheel, we could just drill/bore a giant hole through the centers to make the mach up work.

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Oh and if you need driveshaft stuff at all... the place around the corner here is awesome.. Powertrain Industries in GG..

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That's who I was planning on using.