Re: 8-3/4 help with thrust buttons/block removal
[Re: rutro]
#1655580
08/06/14 12:15 AM
08/06/14 12:15 AM
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,520
West Palm Beach, Florida
Copper Dart
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,520
West Palm Beach, Florida
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Check with Dr Diff. The button has a small roll pin in the middle you need to tap it out with a small but long punch. Once the roll pin is removed, the buttons fall out. This is very commonly done when using green bearings on the axles. I'm not sure this applys to your type of posi. 
Last edited by Copper Dart; 08/06/14 12:18 AM.
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Re: 8-3/4 help with thrust buttons/block removal
[Re: rutro]
#1655581
08/06/14 08:59 AM
08/06/14 08:59 AM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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Quote:
I've trying to read as much as I can on this. I'm afraid I have a cup&cone type sure-grip. I've already sealed up into the housing under the car. I have green bearings on the axles with old style flange crimped onto the bearing (mid 1990's). I'm not getting it to seat all the way against the backing plate. Probably about 1/8", maybe a little less. I tried to pull out what looks like the buttons, they only move in and out about a 1/4". I tried to spin them but they don't. I can see light from the other side of the axle around a portion of the top of what looks like a button. Is this still what is called a block and is not removable unless I disassemble the SG? Would bad things happen if I add a 1/8" spacer between the backing plate and the axle flange? Any insight would help, thanks!
that is a floating thrust block you have. the cross pin has to be removed to remove the thrustblock.
correct. it MUST be removed to run the greens with the crimped on retainer.
the better green bearing is the m400 IIRC-drdiff has them cheapest around for a set.
I removed a floating thrust block from my 742 case with out removing the cross pin. I used a hammer and cold chisel to break the block then acoounted for the broke piece = broke into 3 pieces.
been running it for yrs with greens since then no issues.
break the block out or tear it down to remove it or swap to the M400 greens with snap ring.
your choise but it has to come out unless you change greens.
I have been running a set of M400 snap ring bearings with a thrust block in my 489 case for over 9 yrs now.
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Re: 8-3/4 help with thrust buttons/block removal
[Re: rutro]
#1655582
08/06/14 11:14 AM
08/06/14 11:14 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,978
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,978
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
I've trying to read as much as I can on this. I'm afraid I have a cup&cone type sure-grip. I've already sealed up into the housing under the car. I have green bearings on the axles with old style flange crimped onto the bearing (mid 1990's). I'm not getting it to seat all the way against the backing plate. Probably about 1/8", maybe a little less. I tried to pull out what looks like the buttons, they only move in and out about a 1/4". I tried to spin them but they don't. I can see light from the other side of the axle around a portion of the top of what looks like a button. Is this still what is called a block and is not removable unless I disassemble the SG? Would bad things happen if I add a 1/8" spacer between the backing plate and the axle flange? Any insight would help, thanks!
You have the worst type of sure grip ... I don't care what anybody says or thinks about them ... and the worst type of Green bearing. Good luck . The easist thing to do would be the trim the end of the axles.
Are you sure it's a cone type because you should not be able to see thru it at all with the axles out and it shouldn't have something that looks like buttons in there?
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Re: 8-3/4 help with thrust buttons/block removal
[Re: rutro]
#1655585
08/06/14 01:11 PM
08/06/14 01:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,443
Indiana
YO7_A66
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,443
Indiana
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""I can see a very narrow moon shape of light coming from the other side.""
From this, it sounds like the roll pin broke and one of the pins came out and the other might still be in there but not all the way into the cavity.
1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
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Re: 8-3/4 help with thrust buttons/block removal
[Re: YO7_A66]
#1655587
08/06/14 01:44 PM
08/06/14 01:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,978
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,978
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
""I can see a very narrow moon shape of light coming from the other side.""
From this, it sounds like the roll pin broke and one of the pins came out and the other might still be in there but not all the way into the cavity.
A moon shaped slice of light would lead me more to believe it's a cone type and the thrust block is sitting low .
Is the light you see in the very middle and maybe like it's coming thru a 1/4 hole ?
But as dogdays said , just pull the chuck and fix it ... unless it's a cone type then it's going to require you to disassemble the chuck and that might be above your pay grade ?
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Re: 8-3/4 help with thrust buttons/block removal
[Re: JohnRR]
#1655588
08/06/14 02:09 PM
08/06/14 02:09 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,750
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,750
Rio Linda, CA
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The best action is to replace the axle bearings.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: 8-3/4 help with thrust buttons/block removal
[Re: rutro]
#1655591
08/07/14 03:08 PM
08/07/14 03:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,750
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,750
Rio Linda, CA
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Common consensus is that the snap ring Greens will clear the thrust block so it can remain in place.
I have no practical experience because I won't use Greens.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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