Hey gang.....
As they say, nothing worth a hill-of-beans comes easy. I got the hemi running this weekend.. BUT, I have a brake issues..... I have a brand new Hemi-Booster/master cylinder assemble, all new lines, rebuilt calipers, new proportioning and safety valve. I have been bled the master cylinder and the complete system. I have done a round-trip twice and as far as I see, the air bubbles are gone. There are NO leaks anywhere. But, the pedal goes all the way to the floor and if I pump it a few times, I'll get some forward brakes. I friend of mine suggest that the problem could be a non-centered situation with the piston assembly inside the safety valve. I mentioned I, as my son is putting pressure on the pedal, loosen the input fitting from each of the reservoirs, one at a time and let it bleed. He stated I should hear or feel a pop of the piston assembly centering itself ( there are springs on the top and bottom side of the piston assembly. Anyone done this before? I get plenty of fluid when I bleed the brakes, it is just that I gain no pressure...

At the shop we had problems with Fords mostly recentering the PP valve.We would open a frt bleeder as someone mashed the pedal.It usually centered it.Rocky

At the wheel not the master.

(1) bad M/C (even tho new)(2) air somewhere. On a tough case I plug the MC with 2 inverted flare male cap plugs from the Edelman cabinet at your parts house & cap the MC ports & if the MC is good and bled out the pedal will be rock hard with virtually no travel. then hookup either line & work on that half then the other half when it is taken care of

Dumb question time- you did install the calipers with the bleeder screw on top? Ran into that several times over the years.


Tim

Stumpy is right at the frt wheel bleeder.Sometimes it takes more than one try.If not Id say a bad master or air in the line.The bleeders on the calipers are facing up I hope?When I did the disc conversion on the 65 I went thru a gallon of fluid.Then I saw the frt bleeders were down and not up.Dumb mistake even after doing brakes for 30 years.Rocky

I just read, and responded to your other posting, about bleeder secrews.

You have your caliper hard lines, and or, bleeder screw, installed improperly.

Basics.....after you get the caliper bleeder location corrected, what's the booster's piston rod to bore clearance "air gap" spec?, did you adjust the Booster's pushrod?.....030 to .060 max, too much gap no brakes/pedal to the floor...no gap or too tight, calipers dragging/overheating

Mike

last night I swapped the transition tubes and bleeder screws on the calipers to the appropriate side. After bleeding the front again, I regained a stiff pedal, doesn't go all the way to the floor any more. But, the rears still don't stop when I'm going through the gears on jack stands. So, I'm going to crack open the input tubes into the safety valve coming from the master cylinder one at a time ( in hopes of centering the piston assembly inside - if they aren't centered and causing poor movement of the rear wheel cylinders. After I bleed the saefty valve, I'll crack open the input tube to the proportioning valve down the framerail while Jacob pushes the pedal to the floor ( tighten the fitting once pedal is all the way down ). Then, I'll bleed the rears again. Hopefully I'll regain the stopping capability of the rears. The shoes are adjusted..

Mike, I haven't separated the MC from the booster. But, since Wayne(theramman) made it for me, I'm confident it is correct.

put a block of wood under the brake pedal so the cups ain't gonna be pushed beyond their normal travel range. I would highly suggest you split the MC/booster & check/confirm nub clearance. The brake warning light being on is an electrical warning that tells a driver that one side has failed (low psi) & the light itself/centered position of the valve itself is unrelated to the rear half not being right (assuming the offending half of the system is now sealed, it just tells a driver that one side was or still does have a leak causing low psi. When you get the system squared away you can recenter the light so it's off

You could try stomping on the brake pedal because that does work some times. I don't think bleeding the lines going into the proportioning valve will help. You need to bleed the lines coming out of it. Also try readjusting the rear brakes they may be a bit loose.

Hello All,
I put the bleeder and transition tubes for the calipers in the proper order. I had the bleeder screws on the bottom location instead of the top. Sooooo, I bleed the front calipers and now I have a nice hard pedal, but too hard now and the rears STILL BARELY move, yet I can bleed the rears (fluid comes out). Maybe there isn't enough pressure. I cracked up the input lines from the master cylinder into the safety valve and had Jacob press the pedal, fluid came out of both. Of course, I did them one at a time and he didn't lift until I tightened the line. Sooooooo, I'm sort of back to square one. I will begin with the master cylinder next. I'll take my bleeder tubes I made out of unused MC tubes for which I have them bend so they terminate within the appropriate reservoir. I will press the pedal and see if I have movement. If I do, then I'll go onto the safety valve one line at a time. This will be a pain in the-you-know-what since everything is in the engine compartment. There's not much else that could be restricting the flow/pressure of the fluid to the rear. Steady as I go, one step at a time.....

I don't think my rod-to-MC clearance is an issue. There doesn't seem to be "unreleased" pressure at the corners. I can rotate the front rotors alright.