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Easy enough , and not super expensive to figure out , get another pair of heads , or at least replace one... BUT I'm pee in the punch, thin cylinders on that bank COULd be putting more heat in the coolant on that side and causing it to run hotter , or the coolant is somehow being restricted.

One way to figure out if it is the head that is causing it , swapp the heads side to side and see if the heat moves. I'll supply the head gaskets if your're up for the challenge. If you lived closer to NH I'd do the work.

This is getting interesting.

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Easy enough , and not super expensive to figure out , get another pair of heads , or at least replace one... BUT I'm pee in the punch, thin cylinders on that bank COULd be putting more heat in the coolant on that side and causing it to run hotter , or the coolant is somehow being restricted.

One way to figure out if it is the head that is causing it , swapp the heads side to side and see if the heat moves. I'll supply the head gaskets if your're up for the challenge. If you lived closer to NH I'd do the work.

This is getting interesting.

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JohnRR, that is an excellent idea...that is exactly what I will do. Obviously if the heat moves to the Passenger side, we've found it, if the Driver's side remains hot, more than likely a "block problem". Since the engine compartment is "all detailed" up, I am going to wait until after the Mopar Nationals (August) to do this. I should be able to remove the heads in one weekend and re-assemble it the next (okay I'm slow). The shop that rebuilt the engine wants me to try a new Carb before I do anything else, he doesn't think it is the head. I told him I would try a new carb but that I thought it was unlikely that an improper fuel mixture would only affect one side of the engine. Do you agree?

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Easy enough , and not super expensive to figure out , get another pair of heads , or at least replace one... BUT I'm pee in the punch, thin cylinders on that bank COULd be putting more heat in the coolant on that side and causing it to run hotter , or the coolant is somehow being restricted.

One way to figure out if it is the head that is causing it , swapp the heads side to side and see if the heat moves. I'll supply the head gaskets if your're up for the challenge. If you lived closer to NH I'd do the work.

This is getting interesting.

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JohnRR, that is an excellent idea...that is exactly what I will do. Obviously if the heat moves to the Passenger side, we've found it, if the Driver's side remains hot, more than likely a "block problem". Since the engine compartment is "all detailed" up, I am going to wait until after the Mopar Nationals (August) to do this. I should be able to remove the heads in one weekend and re-assemble it the next (okay I'm slow). The shop that rebuilt the engine wants me to try a new Carb before I do anything else, he doesn't think it is the head. I told him I would try a new carb but that I thought it was unlikely that an improper fuel mixture would only affect one side of the engine. Do you agree?

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You've got to be kidding me...I think JohnRR is being facetious...

As far as improper fuel mixture..I don't know, unless you have one side of the idle mixture screws really leaned out over the other...and even then I don't know if that's possible. Your car would be running off the idle circuit when this is happening so I guess it's of interest. You can set it pretty easy with a vacuum gauge.

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I would have thought that engines produced in the late 60's that were subject to a "core shift" would have been disposed of long ago by attrition or warrantee claims. I'm finding that some of these may have survived.

Has anyone experienced Core Shift in an engine block (383, 440, etc.) that did not become a problem until years later when the block received its first 30 overbore? By problem I mean overheating or cracked cylinder wall.

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Has anyone really found "core shift" to be responsible for over heating?

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So no clear answers so far, while we are chasing ou tails.

IMO, a thin cylinder wall would not "add" any heat to the overall system that was not already there. It would more likely make one cyl cooler and cause that tuning problem. Cyl walls do not create heat other by friction, by being thin they may only rob heat from the combustion cycle/exhaust.

Now if the concern is core shift is so great that water flow is blocked or disrupted to an extent that water flow is seriously compromised, seems like a different path to determine is needed then the current direction.

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Easy enough , and not super expensive to figure out , get another pair of heads , or at least replace one... BUT I'm pee in the punch, thin cylinders on that bank COULd be putting more heat in the coolant on that side and causing it to run hotter , or the coolant is somehow being restricted.

One way to figure out if it is the head that is causing it , swapp the heads side to side and see if the heat moves. I'll supply the head gaskets if your're up for the challenge. If you lived closer to NH I'd do the work.

This is getting interesting.

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JohnRR, that is an excellent idea...that is exactly what I will do. Obviously if the heat moves to the Passenger side, we've found it, if the Driver's side remains hot, more than likely a "block problem". Since the engine compartment is "all detailed" up, I am going to wait until after the Mopar Nationals (August) to do this. I should be able to remove the heads in one weekend and re-assemble it the next (okay I'm slow). The shop that rebuilt the engine wants me to try a new Carb before I do anything else, he doesn't think it is the head. I told him I would try a new carb but that I thought it was unlikely that an improper fuel mixture would only affect one side of the engine. Do you agree?

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You've got to be kidding me...I think JohnRR is being facetious...

As far as improper fuel mixture..I don't know, unless you have one side of the idle mixture screws really leaned out over the other...and even then I don't know if that's possible. Your car would be running off the idle circuit when this is happening so I guess it's of interest. You can set it pretty easy with a vacuum gauge.

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No I'm completely serious.

But trying a carb is not a bad idea , though 2 cylinders on each bank are fed by half the carb... BUT the distribution of that stock intake leaves a lot to be desired.

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For the record, I betting it's not the heads and not the block, no matter how thin the sleeves are.

The engine builder knows the engine and the person using it and what it's used for. I can't believe how no one wants to hear what he has said or suggested.

You would think jetting up is easier than swapping heads just to see if the engine builder has a clue??

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You would think jetting up is easier than swapping heads just to see if the engine builder has a clue??

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Somewhere along the line in these many threads the carb change has been suggested , a few times , but the OP is STUCK ON FACTORY STOCK and poo poo'd a carb change , or the carb , being the problem.

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You would think jetting up is easier than swapping heads just to see if the engine builder has a clue??

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Somewhere along the line in these many threads the carb change has been suggested , a few times , but the OP is STUCK ON FACTORY STOCK and poo poo'd a carb change , or the carb , being the problem.

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