I'm going to do a quick swap this weekend on my 79 2wd step side with a 400 big block motor in my 78 macho powerwagon. My macho is a factory 4 speed truck so I'll use what I need off of it. Just checking with you guys to see if I have every thing that I'll need. My step side is a slant six three speed standard on the column, the 78 macho is a 400 4wd 4 speed on the floor. I'm thinking this motor should slide right in using the motor mounts that are on it, bell housing, z bar. I'll need to pick up a screw on hump to mount to my floor and a tranny. Not sure what to go with for a tranny? We have a few 4 speed trannies kicking around for the old cars, a body and b body ones and I think we have 833 od unit as well. I've got shifters kicking around as well. My truck is a standard already so I have the correct pedals in it already. Is there any thing else you guys can think of that will be an issue for this swap? Thanks for any help as always.

the B-body 4 speed would be my pick.

the B-body shifter works on a B-body 4 speed in the trucks.. not sure if the B-body shifter adaptor works with it. you may need the truck 833OD shifter adaptor piece.

also you need to check the BB bell to see if it is a granny tranny bolt pattern only or a duel pattern bell.

check the retainer bearing hole in the bell for correct size there as well.

if you have a BB/car 4-speed bell I would use it and mod the linkage as needed in the truck chassis to fit it in there.

or use a 2x granny 4 speed with a 3.55 gear in the 1/2 ton to make heavy duty street sleeper.

I know my NV4500 5 speed is awsome in my 85 stepside turning a 3.21 gear pully street duty.

you may need a set of the 2x BB truck mounts. IIRC the 4x4 mounts are offset to match the 4x4 chassis and have a hole in the bracket to clear oil pump.

2x mounts are straight sides no offset to them and no clearance issues with oil pump.

X 2 on what scratch said about the mounts.

I have read over the years on here that there is a different crossmember for 4-speed 2WD, not sure if that is true, I just used my Auto 904 crossmember without issue.

Also you might need a driveshaft, as I think the 3 speed is the length of a 904 vs the B-body 833's that are 727 length. The shortbed, B/E body/truck trans take a driveshaft that is 50.5" long center to center on the u-joints. That is what is factory for a 8 1/4 or 9 1/4 rear axle---HOWEVER, check YOUR setup because my truck had better fitment with a 51" center to center shaft---and I have no idea what I got it out of, it was in my small stash of driveshafts and it has small joints.

Double check your bell to see if it has the 833 pattern as scratch said, and it would be far easier if you had the correct shifter bracket because it will pull the shifter down a good 3" if I remember right--that might make things tricky in the pass compartment with sticks. I personally got away with a 833OD Van shifter stick, but I also swapped to a newer Ram seat from a 99 Ram. The van stick fit WAY better with my combo and is still far enough away from the dash. The truck shifter stick was awkward with the center console folded down on the 99 Ram seat I swapped in. So you might have to experiment if you have different sticks around. Same with trans linkage too, depending on what shifter bracket and linkage and trans you use, you might have to mix and match.

Also, without checking, you may need to shorten/modify that Z-bar as the big block probably has a larger bellhousing. I believe the rest of the linkage will be alright, will probably have to use the fork from the big block bell. And double check the center register size too.

I run a Truck 833 OD trans setup in my truck ('85 short bed stepside), with the mentioned Van shifter stick---Was lucky enough to get the entire trans/shifter/linkage for $60. I converted the shifter to have a bolt on stick. The slip in sticks have the hols in them, the shifter just need holes drilled and some slight mods---although I don't remeber exactly, but you'll see it if you have that style shifter around. Any Hurst comp plus style shifter will work.

You will have most of what you need on hand, but you certianly will be missing a few things too. Hopefully you have a good stash of parts on hand.

does your stepside have the round or squarish floorpan?

I cut a hole and used another hump from a 4x4 cab in mine. I will drill and bolt it in, then weld the nuts on the bottom side of pan for a removable pan.

lots of shifter room with a 4x4 hump.. just need the hole in the side for a 833 4 speed.. very ez pz

Wow, a lot of good info here guys thanks for it all. Mine has the small hump like a little red would have. I'd like to just get one of those black factory plastic screw on humps if it that will work. If I have to I can install the larger screw on hump as my macho has one with a 4 speed hole already cut into it. I guess I'll just jump into it this weekend and see how I make out.

I could use this hump if I had to.

Here's a pic of the motor I'm using. I plan to go through it and replace all the gaskets on it and give it a good cleaning and fresh coat of paint.

here's a picture showing the motor mounts.

I'll use the steering column out of the macho as well so I'll now have power steering which will be really nice.

This is the hump I'd like to go with instead of using the larger one. Will this one work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-TRUCK-FLOO...d21&vxp=mtr

This is what I'll probably need for motor mounts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trans-Dapt-4565-...c81&vxp=mtr

I think I have the fiberglass hump in storage... had no idea why I even got it in the first place...

I agree on cutting the hump up past the seat then trim it close to the pinch weld to remove the spot weld seem..then it will lay flat right on the parting line. I cut 2x floor a couple inches below the seam to overlap it 1.5"

then as said cut back under the seat and slowly trim it up.. on my 2x floor there is a area about 2" wide that matches up when you trim the patch close enuff it lays right over the same area.

only place I wish I had cut wider was down the sides.. I would have liked more of the flat part of the floor under the throttle pedal and over more on pass side to over lap.

my next step is to finish cutting the 2x floor hump out so it has the 2" overlap all the way around the edge.

mine fits over the trans well even with the 2x floor not open up all they way yet. foot is comfy at throttle pedal. once bolted down I plan to weld nuts on the under side to make it bolt in and add some weather stripping to seal the edge to floor good once bolt down.