Hey Guys Hopefully someone can help me here. I have a 1990 Dodge B350 van with only 70,000 miles and an efi 360. Anyway The van was running fine until I went to start it today, it has fuel but no spark. I changed out the coil and ECM to no avail. I even tried to "Hotwire" the coil with 12V to the Pos. side and got no spark?? Could this be the hall effect sensor in the distributor? I have been told ASD relay but my thinking is if it was bad I would not be firing the injector correct? Any insight would help, I really wanna get this thing home. Thanks

90 model, so I assume its TBI....when you say has fuel, pump does run?has pressure?(per spec,on A gauge)..has injector pulse?...if it has those things, take asd off the list.if that's the case,next check is spark tester on coil wire (spark may not be making it out of distributor due to bad cap or rotor).if coil makes no spark,check for positive voltage at positive side.on neg side,a test lamp should flash while cranking.not familiar with TBI as I am magnums.do they have crank sensors,or use the pickup for everything?crank sensors are real common on magnums.

Yes it is TBI, has fuel pressure and injector pulse. No 12V at pos side of coil, and when I hot wire it 12V at Pos. on coil it still has no spark. I couldn't find a crank sensor on this motor, I am thinking it is all controlled by the hall effect sensor in the distributor. Cap and Rotor are both good, Since hot wired new coil isn't putting out spark Im leaning toward something in the distributor.

did you try to run the codes?

The Key on-off-on-off-on-off method should get the check engine light to flash. Then post the codes.

Check for codes first using the key on-off-on- off-on sequence. Look at the check engine light and count the flashes/numbers

Fuel pressure should be 14.5

Hall effect in the only thing in the dizzy to go bad other than a rusty "reluctor" or bearings/bushings. Common to go bad too, but easy to get to in a van

Yes Sorry I forgot to post in my Original Post I checked the Codes before I changed the ECM, and got 12 and 55 Same with new ECM 12 and 55. I disconnected the battery while changing them out hence the 12 code I believe.

I hear you on the hall effect sensor, but what baffles me is if the hall effect also sends signal to pulse the injectors, they are pulsing but the same signal isn't making the coil fire.

Pulled pickup out of the distributor, it had rust stuck between the contacts, headed to Autozone Man I hope that is the problem! I was watching the Injectors in the daylight, they pulse the first few seconds when the motor first turns over then quit.

If its TBI which it should being a 1990 then it does not have a crank sensor as it only needs the dist hall effect since it does not have 8 injectors to fire at the right times. Of course the dist signals the PCM to fire the coil and the PCM just fires the 2 injectors in the throttle body by the dist hall effect count and just squirts the fuel into the intake sorta like a carb. They did go to a seperate fuel pump and ASD relay but I think it was 1992 when they did which was the year they went to ported fuel injection with 8 injectors in the intake. So if yours has just the ASD relay to feed the coil and throttle body injectors and you have power to the injectors you must have a wireing problem if you have no power to the coil when the eng is cranking. You did say the coil has no power when cranking the eng right ? Ron

Correct No power to coil at startup, Had short injector pulse for a second at startup. Now nothing.Replaced the Hall Effect Sensor still nothing..

I read this on ALLPAR...""For troubleshooting purposes only (don’t drive like this!), Ed Hennessy wrote: “You can try feeding power to the fuel pump directly. Connect 12V+ from the battery through a fused link to the positive terminal of the coil. That will back feed 12V to the fuel pump through the ASD circuit. If the pump runs [it should be easy to hear], the ASD relay is bad. If not, the fuel pump or its wiring is probably the problem.""

I tried it.. The Fuel pump did run, Took a Known Good ASD From my 95 Dakota, tried 12V to + on coil, pump still ran.. So I don't think the ASD itself is bad. I guess its time to start probing wires...Uhhhgghh

ECM Throwing codes 12, 41, and 55... So is my thinking correct that if it stores codes the ECM is functioning correctly?

Those were known for coils going.I changed a bunch at work.Also did you check the coil lead itself?You wont have spark if either the coil or the coil wire is bad.Rocky

The coil has two required things going to it. A steady 12v and a pulsed ground. If you have a test light you can clip it to the two terminals on the coil and it should pulse as you crank the motor. If it does your coil or the coil lead is suspect. You can ohm out a coil.

http://autorepair.about.com/od/troubleshooting/ss/coil-test-ohm.htm

i've got an 89 maxipad 360 efi.That vintage van has a bunch of fuse links running up behind the booster.Mine fried one...no start.Still have all the spare new stuff (puter,etc) that i threw at it before I figured it out.

Im going to rip into it Tomorrow with a multimeter,start probing wires. I suspect a bad fusible link also. FWIW I have been throwing parts at this one too, and pulling out what hair I have left.

OK Guys Thanks for all your help! I probed around today and found the the ECM was sending inconsistent signal to the ASD Relay, causing the contacts to be damaged enough to not do their Job. I replaced the ASD relay and the coil had 12V at the +, but the fuel pump was running and the injectors were wide open!! It was just dumping fuel into the throttle body when the key was in the run position!! I quickly pulled the injector connector off.. And got back to probing.

Found that the signal wire from the ECM to the ASD Relay had voltage all the time regardless of where the hall effect sensor was located, and the injectors were grounded 100% of the time..Making them "Shoot" all the time. So after getting the fuel out of the cylinders to prevent hydrolock, I replaced the ECM and ASD Relay and it fired right up like a new one! Earlier I had replaced one or the other but not both at the same time. Ended up they were both bad. They joys of Electronics that are over a decade old! Glad to have my RV/Tow Vehicle operational again!