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Autozone alternator #1624009
05/23/14 11:50 AM
05/23/14 11:50 AM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 302
MG, Brazil
v8punch Offline OP
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v8punch  Offline OP
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MG, Brazil
Friends, I am thinking of buying an alternator in autozone, someone purchased? What is the quality? Look oem?
link: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Alternator/_/N-iq2tp?itemIdentifier=333153
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Alternator/_/N-iq2tp?itemIdentifier=333443
Thank's in advance.

Re: Autozone alternator [Re: v8punch] #1624010
05/23/14 11:53 AM
05/23/14 11:53 AM
Joined: Apr 2006
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Akron, Ohio U.S.A.
roadhazard Offline
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I bought a 60 AMP for my Charger and it seems to work well. Just be sure the nut on the positive post is tight and does not rotate the stud when you tighten the wire

Last edited by roadhazard; 05/23/14 12:14 PM.
Re: Autozone alternator [Re: v8punch] #1624011
05/23/14 11:56 AM
05/23/14 11:56 AM
Joined: Jan 2005
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Central TX
roe Offline
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I've used these before, never had a quality issue on either of the 3 cars I've put them on. 2 were mine, 1 car was a buddy's. They looked like what came off, and they worked. Then I upgraded to the 78 amp version and it's been on for a few years now. And I like the lifetime warranty. Mine were for small blocks but they were Duralast



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Re: Autozone alternator [Re: roe] #1624012
05/23/14 12:45 PM
05/23/14 12:45 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

Then I upgraded to the 78 amp version


Since you are going OE that is the one I would order: (85 M body iirc)


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Re: Autozone alternator [Re: RapidRobert] #1624013
05/23/14 12:47 PM
05/23/14 12:47 PM
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Blair County,PA
62maxwgn Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Then I upgraded to the 78 amp version


Since you are going OE that is the one I would order: (85 M body iirc)




Robert,85 M body would be dual field,not correct.If you take one of the field wires to ground the dual field alternator will work, however the old mechanical type voltage regulators were not designed to take much more than 45-50 amps. Eventually the contacts on the mechanical type voltage regulator will fail when excessive current runs through them.

Re: Autozone alternator [Re: 62maxwgn] #1624014
05/23/14 12:58 PM
05/23/14 12:58 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Max I did not know the old mech regs could not handle the increased field current of a later alt. One of my projects has that setup but I have not driven it very much. Eventually I was going to get an electronic (early) reg as I do not have faith in the old mech types


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Re: Autozone alternator [Re: RapidRobert] #1624015
05/23/14 02:10 PM
05/23/14 02:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,072
Niles , Ohio
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therocks Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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Niles , Ohio
Why would anyone run the point type reg?Just get the new style and put the points box over it.One of the best things they ever did for old Mopars.Only reason to run the points reg is for a total show car.As for AZs allt we used a few at the shop.But we usually used Advanced because the quality was better,We didnt like having to do work twice.Rocky

Last edited by therocks; 05/23/14 02:11 PM.

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Re: Autozone alternator [Re: therocks] #1624016
05/23/14 03:43 PM
05/23/14 03:43 PM
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dogdays Offline
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Bull. The field current, which is controlled by the voltage regulator, is not 50 amps. To think that it would take the whole alternator output to charge the field is ridiculous.

The voltage regulator senses the battery or system voltage and passes enough field current to make the alternator produce enough power to keep system voltage where it was designed to be. That should be a couple of amps at max.

Now, the ammeter, as has been discussed here repeatedly, does pass through all the current, but usually it's way less than 50 amps.

As for mechanical or solid state regulators, I am sure that there were 100+ amp alternators on trucks that were controlled by mechanical regulators.

I have found that solid state regulators keep the voltage steadier, especially at idle.

R.

Re: Autozone alternator [Re: dogdays] #1624017
05/23/14 05:14 PM
05/23/14 05:14 PM
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Lakeland FL
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floridian Offline
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Lakeland FL
Bought a really nice Alternator from Rock Auto for the car in my pic. Had the same problem as with the date coded one on my bench. NO CHARGE at idle..... or I should say very little...

I hear alot about the newer 78 amp unit, but does it charge at idle?? Anyone have any real experience with one at IDLE????

Re: Autozone alternator [Re: floridian] #1624018
05/23/14 05:22 PM
05/23/14 05:22 PM
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Niles , Ohio
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therocks Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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My 65 has a chrome one from Summit.I converted to the late reg before the solid states came out for the points ones.Mine charges great at idle.The kids 62 300 has the OE single field with the solid state reg.His also charges as good as mine at idle.The points regs didnt really like to charge at low idles.That why they flicker so much.Rocky


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Re: Autozone alternator [Re: therocks] #1624019
05/23/14 05:24 PM
05/23/14 05:24 PM
Joined: Aug 2012
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Lakeland FL
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floridian Offline
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Quote:

My 65 has a chrome one from Summit.I converted to the late reg before the solid states came out for the points ones.Mine charges great at idle.The kids 62 300 has the OE single field with the solid state reg.His also charges as good as mine at idle.The points regs didnt really like to charge at low idles.That why they flicker so much.Rocky




Rock, I have tried 3 different single field solid state regs, still poor charge at idle..

Re: Autozone alternator [Re: floridian] #1624020
05/24/14 10:18 AM
05/24/14 10:18 AM
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Niles , Ohio
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therocks Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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Did you put new brushes in the alt?The 62 runs underdrive pulleys as does my 65 and both charge fine at idle.The 65 does idle high because of the cam and is a 4 speed so I dont drop like an auto.The 62 auto idles about 750 to 800 in gear.Rocky

Last edited by therocks; 05/24/14 10:19 AM.

Chrysler Firepower
Re: Autozone alternator [Re: dogdays] #1624021
05/24/14 12:44 PM
05/24/14 12:44 PM
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Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda Offline
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Quote:



Now, the ammeter, as has been discussed here repeatedly, does pass through all the current, but usually it's way less than 50 amps.




Nope. just the current to/from the battery. Not all the current. The only time it even comes close is if you have a charging system failure and the battery has to carry all the load.


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Re: Autozone alternator [Re: Supercuda] #1624022
05/24/14 01:16 PM
05/24/14 01:16 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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I keep the ammeter needle close to 12 o'clock most of the time/did Nacho's bulkhead parallel bypass/clean ALL connections and terminals/relayed add ons directly to the alt. Works great/no issues and I get to keep my ammeter (I did add a voltmeter to switched 12v).


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Autozone alternator [Re: RapidRobert] #1624023
05/24/14 02:51 PM
05/24/14 02:51 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
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Niles , Ohio
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therocks Offline
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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Every old Mopar i had I bypassed the amp gauge.My 65 I just took the leads and screwed them together.The 5 or 6 RamChargers I had all had burnt amp gauges.The 65s has been together for at least 20 years or more and it was burnt also.I just install volt gauges.No need for all that current to pass thru the amp meter that is a weak spot.Rocky


Chrysler Firepower
Re: Autozone alternator [Re: RapidRobert] #1624024
05/24/14 05:03 PM
05/24/14 05:03 PM
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Sac, CA
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mopowers Offline
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Quote:

I keep the ammeter needle close to 12 o'clock most of the time/did Nacho's bulkhead parallel bypass/clean ALL connections and terminals/relayed add ons directly to the alt. Works great/no issues and I get to keep my ammeter (I did add a voltmeter to switched 12v).




What's Nacho's bulkhead parallel bypass???

Re: Autozone alternator [Re: mopowers] #1624025
05/24/14 06:53 PM
05/24/14 06:53 PM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:

What's Nacho's bulkhead parallel bypass???


Adding 2 wires in a grommet in an extra drilled hole in the firewall close to the bulkhead to parallel bypass the (1) main power in wire from battery going past the fusible link and to parallel bypass (2) the black wire coming in from the alt OR drill out the (2) cavities in each of the bulkhead halves (4 cavities total) & run wire straight thru instead of the OE brass male/female terminals. Leave a bit of extra length on the 2 wires on the inside so you can still seperate the bulkhead halves later on down the line when needed


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth






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