I was messing around on YouTube earlier and saw it on Jay Leno's Garage. He says he has been using it for 16 yrs.

I know its a little steep on pricing, about $40/gallon...I would need 160 bucks worth of it, but the question is, does anyone in the real world use this type of fluid?

I have a cast iron block, with aluminum heads and a factory 26" radiator with a HV Aluminum water pump. I DO need to flush my cooling system as I haven't done it for over 10 years. I think that is my culprit to the overheating, its plugged somewhere. My timing is on the money, the A/F mixture is close to where I need to be 12.6@idle and 13.8 under WOT.

I read somewhere that if you blow a gasket and this gets into your oil, your bearings are going to get thrashed.

What do you do with the radiator cap? does anyone even make a 0-psi Rad Cap?

I am sure there are a bunch of other questions I can't even think of.

First lets find out why it is overheating & go from there. Around town/out on the hiway/always done it/condition of rad/stat/cruise mixture OK/how long to overheat/what temp (verified?).

Yeah...I am talking about down the line after I figure out a few issues with my weekend motoring. She used to hit 160 all day...freeway, street, stop light...now she inches up to 220 on a hot day.

Radiator...26" 4-core Chrysler Radiator
Thermostat...Moroso 160º
Mixture.....50/50

At a video shoot two years ago...temps hit 260º and I was icebagging the radiator to bring the temps down...Like I said, my goal before this summer season is to remove the radiator...flush it clean...inspect it with an endoscope I have. Get in to the block and flush that stuff out, I installed a petcock on the pass. side to get more out when the time comes....replace the water pump with a Mancini Aluminum housing/Pump I already have with the anti-cavitation plate.

Just saw the Evans cooling and wondered if it would work on our rides and does what they say it will do

Unrelated to the overheating I would switch the stat to a 180 as a 160 is a drag race only item & 180 or above is needed for proper atomization & a 160 greatly exacerbates engine wear. The stat might be partly stuck. Rad might be partly plugged but you do have alot of of radiator but I would check it. I have never actually used those water wetters but I've never had a need to & I consider them snake oil tho I'll concede that any type of "water wetter" would slightly help heat transfer from the metal to the coolant. I think a few drops of dish soap (what I use) works just as well. other possibilities: lean mixture (vac leak). block plugged (not likely). way retarded timing (stuck weights) not likely. bad clutch fan. collapsing lower hose. slightly blown head gasket/warped head/deck. Holler what it turns out to be

I have been running Evans NPG ( the original formulation) since late 1998 in a 1995 Ram Magnum 5.9V8

My original interest was whether it would reduce pinging on 87 octane gasoline in 95 degree F weather.

It did not.

I have continued to run it though, and am just short of 205,000 miles.

When the outside temperature falls below 25 degrees F the Evans NPG "overcools" in the radiator and you have to downshift to keep rpms up so that the pump will force the sluggish and viscous coolant through the system.

The NPG does seem to keep internal corrosion at a low level.

About five years ago the driver's side plastic tank on the radiator began leaking and i replaced the whole radiator. Whether the NPG coolant chemistry had anything to do with this is unknown.

I have run 205, 195, and 180 thermostats.

The 205 thermostat gave slightly higher fuel economy.
If a 230 degree thermostat was available i would try it.

I have run without the cooling fan bolted on for as much as a year in both winter and summer weather.

A few years ago i got stuck in an Atlanta traffic jam in 95 degree weather and got uncomfortable as with the air conditioning running near full blast the coolant temperature went up to the 280 degree range... but nothing bad happened.

A couple years ago i bought a zero psi radiator cap and have been running it.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/depar.../cap-logo/stant

I went to the Stant 0 psi cap because i have a weeping coolant leak at the top drivers side timing chain cover gasket, which is the 1995 factory original.

One way to see where the heat is building up is to use one of those infra-red point and shoot thermometer. If everything is working right, you should see everything working well, and normal drops, etc...

But if lets say the thermostat isn't working, or the radiator is plugged or something in the engine, you should be able to see where the issue is because it will be really hot on one side, and much cooler on the other.

Feets did this on Power Tour for a friend and discovered that his brand new thermostat had gone bad.

Ryan

That is too lean at wot, as said should be shooting for 12.8 - 13.2 for best performance. I believe you have dual carbs and was told you have to run dual carb setups a little fat. As always a few runs down the track at wot and tuning for max mph is the best way to tune.

My friend tried it in his big block Chevy powered turbo mustang. Didn't seem to do we enough to warrant the cost, but is did INCREASE his oil temp by almost 20*

A chevy powered...turbo...Mustang...thjats an interesting mix.

I got a call from the local distributor today. To do the average replacement on an RB its going to run me $345 here. While in the US...the purchase price in the U.S. is $160.

This country (Greece) should be ashamed of itself. More than twice the price if I bought it in the US.