Re: Engine runs on
[Re: 71birdJ68]
#1614015
05/01/14 12:39 AM
05/01/14 12:39 AM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271 Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
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I Live Here
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Posts: 12,271
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Quote:
I was thinking other than factory that I could adapt. Just the brackets are over a $100, no telling what a solenoids cost.
I'd fix the issue, not the symptom.
Fixing the likely issue is a lot less than that solenoid and bracket!
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Re: Engine runs on
[Re: Barry70GTX]
#1614019
05/03/14 03:09 PM
05/03/14 03:09 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271 Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
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Quote:
The throttle blades are open too far. Increase the initial timing and close the throttle blades. No reason to have 1100 rpm idle speed.
And the sellout crowd roars it's approval!
What's it cost to see if more initial timing cures the issue. ZERO.
More initial will also clean up those sooty gas fouled plugs. BONUS! An idle solenoid WILL NOT help here.
I'll bet this car cranks excessively when trying to start and needs to floor the pedal or give it some pedal to fire. That's another symptom of not enough initial timing. The total timing crowd falls victim to this all the time.
People complain all the time about how expensive these cars are... hmmm
If you don't have emissions testing to be concerned about, an idle speed solenoid is a waste of money. Emissions is the reason they were used on these cars in the 60-70's.
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Re: Engine runs on
[Re: RSNOMO]
#1614021
05/03/14 04:24 PM
05/03/14 04:24 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271 Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
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I Live Here
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Posts: 12,271
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Quote:
Here it is...
Right out of the Service Manual:
'The high performance engines (340, 440, 440 3-2V and 426 Hemi) employ idle speeds between 800 and 1000 rpm to obtain acceptable lower emissions during idle and deceleration. In order to prevent "after running", with such high idle speeds, these engines have an electrical solenoid throttle stop which holds the throttle at the correct idle position when energized but de-energizes when the ignition is turned off, allowing the throttle blades to close more completely.'
My little, old '70 340 Duster had it in place...
900 in neutral;it was needed...
Even back when 10.5 compression burned 97 octane...
Nice reference from the service manual.
Because the correct initial timing was compromised to obtain those acceptable emission readings, they had to crutch the system using a solenoid. More initial timing usually drives HC levels up.
People used to hunt only with clubs and sticks, but, we've evolved.
I made a real good living tuning cars in the 80's and on because people wanted to use the factory ignition settings or fall victim to total timing thinking. My 340 with a tight lashed 284/528 mechanical idles nicely at 750-800 rpm, not stinking out the neighborhood with raw fuel, clean plugs and 22* initial timing. It runs like junk with 10* initial and smells like a leaking fuel truck at idle when timed there.
The OP's issue is based in the inadequate initial timing setting.
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Re: Engine runs on
[Re: RSNOMO]
#1614023
05/03/14 05:05 PM
05/03/14 05:05 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271 Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
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Quote:
You take issue with EVERYTHING, regardless of its source...
Unless it has your stamp of approval...
Go argue with the engineers who designed it...
Or better yet, go to a Pure Stock event...
And see how poorly OEM performs...
While you are
Did you miss this.
Quote:
Nice reference from the service manual.
you need some of this? Little cranky?
Those engineers had to work inside a defined box. I bet if you asked them, they'd tell you they'd have rather increase initial timing, however, the emissions regulations/standards wouldn't allow it. Pretty simple.
How should the OP fix this issue?
Pure stock? Nobody in those pits has taken the time to optimize the timing events on the engines.
Pick your parts, pay your money and tune it up however you like.
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Re: Engine runs on
[Re: RobX4406]
#1614024
05/04/14 02:28 AM
05/04/14 02:28 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421 Balt. Md
383man
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,421
Balt. Md
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Quote:
Quote:
The throttle blades are open too far. Increase the initial timing and close the throttle blades. No reason to have 1100 rpm idle speed.
And the sellout crowd roars it's approval!
What's it cost to see if more initial timing cures the issue. ZERO.
More initial will also clean up those sooty gas fouled plugs. BONUS! An idle solenoid WILL NOT help here.
I'll bet this car cranks excessively when trying to start and needs to floor the pedal or give it some pedal to fire. That's another symptom of not enough initial timing. The total timing crowd falls victim to this all the time.
People complain all the time about how expensive these cars are... hmmm
If you don't have emissions testing to be concerned about, an idle speed solenoid is a waste of money. Emissions is the reason they were used on these cars in the 60-70's.
The idle solenoid can never hurt and if an eng would still run on sometimes when its set to the specs you want then the idle solenoid would be a good idea. I agree with what your saying about setting it so it should not run on but the idle solenoid will never hurt and can only help if the ownwer does not mind spending the money which should not be much as being a tech all my life I had some laying around from jobs so he may be able to fine one from a tech real cheap. Ron
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