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Re: rear frame rail replacement
[Re: belv2vert66]
#160524
12/03/08 03:06 PM
12/03/08 03:06 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,106 Ridgeland Wi
mopars_1
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,106
Ridgeland Wi
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I guess you could check with trunk lid in relation to the top of the 1/4s for gap and height difference. for being that far back on the car, being close is good enough for getting the fame rails strait, I wouldn't think it has to be perfect. just make sure everything looks 'correct' but measurments from any other 66-70 b-body wouldnt hurt
1971 Plymouth Duster 340 auto 1937 Plymouth PT50 1969 Dodge Dart Swinger 340 4 speed 2013 Ram laramie 2500 hemi 2008 Harley FLSTSB springer
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Re: rear frame rail replacement
[Re: Paul]
#160526
12/03/08 04:14 PM
12/03/08 04:14 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 708 Mechanic Falls, Maine
4BBodies
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 708
Mechanic Falls, Maine
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I was a frame technician at a Dealership, chances are if the gap is that big at the back, and the rails look ok, then the frame is bent over the axle. Check for crinkles. It would have to be pulled on a frame machine, if it was hit that hard, nothing else will have the strength. Do cross measurements underneath, to compare sides, using exhisting holes in the frame in front of the axle. Go from in front of the left rear tire to the right rear frame rail, and then do the opposite. ( In front of right tire to left rear rail.) Also measure the length of the rails to the axle, to see if they are the same or not. This way you can determine if it is bent above the axle, or just behind it, which could be repaired with a new frame rail. Hope this helps.
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Re: rear frame rail replacement
[Re: Paul]
#160527
12/03/08 11:23 PM
12/03/08 11:23 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,377 Back In Iowa
belv2vert66
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,377
Back In Iowa
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Quote:
sounds like the rails are still buckled in somewhere? Is there a visible point of compression in the rails? The tail light panel attaches to the rear lip of the trunk floor, it's possible you could replace the trunk pan and have the quarters and trunk all line up but have the rear crossmember in far enough where you would have to shim the bumper to get the correct gap if the rails are still pushed in somewhere.
One last question, is the car driveable? I'd be curious to know if it tracks straight.
Left rail is visably compressed. You can see the attempted pull and the wrinkled trunk floor. The right rail maybe alright but I see a slight abnormality to it about a foot past the arch of it. Actually all the damage appears to stop about where the rails arch up to go over the rear end. Front and rear floors all look good and have no damage to them. I have never driven the car. It is obvious it was driven many miles after the shoddy repair work. I have seen a lot of hacked up stuff in my life but this thing takes the cake for me. Not so much in the sense that it is a difficult repair. But I can't believe what the collision shops got away with back in the day.... Have I mentioned yet I am embarassed to admit I bought it.......This car although rough and ready appeared solid and straight. I thought a trunk floor and gas tank and my 14 year old will be happy......Pics to come.....
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