Basic combo info - 340/W2; .557 cam, Proform 750 DP, Victor W2, MSD 6AL, MP distributor with Firecore cap/wires, RC9YC plugs. Cam 2 100 octane.

Car will hardly run, very hard to start. It ran briefly the other day when it was real warm out but then not again today when it was colder. Most of the time it turns over but will not fire/run.

Verified spark with inline spark tester, seems to be OK. Actually shocked me pretty good at one point. Verified proper MSD operation by breaking pickup circuit, nice blue spark. Fuel is pumping for sure, it's fouling plugs.

Distributor was out at one point so I have not been able to verify correct timing after I put it back in but it's close. I made a reference mark before I took it out, it's probably around 15-20 advanced but I can't say for sure. # on distributor plate is 13.

Carb has been apart a couple times after backfiring. Checked all gaskets to see if they're covering any holes, all appear OK; blew out all the orifices, cleaned all the carbon, checked the power valve (front only) works, holds vacuum. Did the floats on the bench but not while the car was running. 6.5 PV in it but last time I checked vacuum at idle it was under 7.

Verified engine/distributor timing like 8 times. Checked firing order/wires good.

So mostly it turns over but won't fire. I suspect some of the problem has to do with insufficient spark. I had a battery go down and replaced it but all the start attempts have drained the new one too.

Did a compression check, all except #t5 were 175-180 psi. #5 was low at 120, squirted some oil in it and it went up to 150. I understand the #5 might not sound so great but it should run on 7 even if #5 was totally dead.

I have gotten it running a few times but it won't stay lit without keeping the throttle pretty far open and it won't idle. The plugs keep fouling then it won't start again. It also pops through the carb when cranking and when the throttle blades close. Gas in the body caught fire a few times when attempting to get it running.

I feel like I'm killing the thing trying to get it running. The starter is gonna be toast soon too.

I know I may be chasing multiple things here but I can't really isolate anything until it runs.

Hope someone has a suggestion on how to keep this thing running. It sounds OK when it's going.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Here's a pic of the #1 plug.

Is this a electric fuel pump... set the float with
the pump on for a start.. the PV shouldnt be open IF
the throttle blades are low enough(which by now you
most likely have them opened up to try to keep it running)
so try plugging the PV port till you get it running..
put in another set of plugs... turn your crank to about
20*BTDC(on the compression stroke) and check to see
if the rotor is just at the leading edge of the cap
lug for the plug) then give it a try

A 9 is a pretty cold plug... you might want to step
up to 11... I guess you will have to crank it over
with the float level plugs out to see if its too high
on the float level

I think they came with 12's

Champions do not swim well, flood them out once and they're shot.

Whats the back story? Car sitting? Coil still good?

I'd put some new plugs in. I've cleaned Champions for everything I've had but once you flood them they will no longer co-operate.

OK, I guess I can say I made some progress since I got it running and 'idling'. Can't say where it was idling at, my tach is not hooked up but it was over 1,000 rpm for sure.

I did what Mr. P said with the timing and it seemed to help get it started. While it was running, it was @ 14 on the damper.

Got a new set of Champion RC9YCs because I didn't think they were fouling because of heat range.

So once it was running, I realized that it was REALLY lean, like piston melting lean. My A/F gauge was reading 13 and when I snapped the throttle it went to 15-16. Temp never got too high and I shut it off after a little while. I could feel it running hot.

In addition, I am still having a hard time getting it to start consistently though and when it doesn't fire, it fouls the plugs.

I went and got 3.5 PV. That was in it while it was running. I thought it might have been contributing to the lean condition so I put a 4.5 afterwards but I didn't get it running again due to plug fouling.

Seems like adjusting the throttle plates had the most affect on starting the car and getting it running. I was still popping a little but not as bad as the other day. Probably cause it's lean when running?

Man, I am lost with this, shouldn't be this hard.
Hope you guys can provide a little more guidance.

Here's a pic of the plug after it ran.

Well, still having problems. Been through about 5 sets of plugs at this point. I can get it to run a little now and I actually had it running OK today for a bit. However...

I was watching the A/F fuel gauge and it was in the ballpark - whack the throttle and after the initial lean spike it went down to the rich side but it was idling around 13. I goosed the throttle at one point and it suddenly went way lean so I shut it off. Could not restart it after that.

Checked the plugs, still fouled. I can't keep buying plugs! Plus, this has to be killing my rings. Oil pressure is still OK I guess, was 60 psi or so at a high idle. 20W-50 VR1. I need to change it though, it's getting black and and looks thin.

Here's some things I've done in no particular order - changed coil, cap, rotor and wires. Changed plugs to a hotter Autolite 3824. Rebuilt carb for the 10th time. Replaced accel. pump diaphragms. Replaced primary needle and seat. Adjusted throttle blades again to verify transfer slot opening. Idle screws out 3/4 turn. Set idle stop screw. Checked clearance at accel pump lever, can fit a .015" in at WOT, slides in and out, can pull the bottom of the spring a little.

Seems like the only way it will start is to crank it for long time while pumping the throttle. It will spit back out the carb but if the plugs are dry enough it will fire. Mostly it won't idle unless the throttle is open kind of wide. I'm not sure why it runs and idles sometimes and not others.

Looking for more suggestions. Why is thing so rich and hard to start? Do I need a different carb? I have a TQ on the shelf...

How far out are the mixture screws... put in a set
of 12s.. dont worry about lean at idle yet.. your
in the park at 13 afr.. whats the base timing now

With the timing light how many degrees... back the
mixture screws out to about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns and
close the throttle blades some

Check the MSD distributer wires,may be backwards.

Is this a fresh rebuild? Has the carb run before?
The first thing I would do is put another carb on it that you know works on another motor. If that carb does the same thing it is not the carb. If it is flooded it can spit through the carb. But if you have flames shooting out of the carb it is a timing issue. If this motor is fresh and never ran before. I would check the marks on the timing gears. When you put a timing light on the motor you are verifying when the ignition is firing in relation to the crank. But if the timing chain is off the vavles will be in a different position than they should be. Open will cause fire to shoot up through the carb.
I don't believe you have to worry about melting a piston at idle when AF hits 14. At high rpms for extended periods of time yes.
One other thing. I had a problem with my car when I first set it up. It ran rich all the time. The vent in the gas tank was clogged and it built up pressure and was pushing fuel to the carb. Cleared the vent and things went back to normal.