Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 2 1 2
Re: Millage carb? [Re: mod5v] #157868
11/29/08 09:19 AM
11/29/08 09:19 AM
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
J
JimG Offline
mopar
JimG  Offline
mopar
J

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
Quote:

As some of you may have deduced I am on a strict budget and I don't think a wideband 02 is in it. I also recently moved from Michigan to fortworth TX and was not able to bring any of my gerage goodies with me. I don't have the room to put the tools nor do I have anywhere to park a beater car while I work on the duster so any work I do has to be done on weekends and the car has to be ready to get me to work on Monday.I can pick up a used eddy from e-bay or a swapmeet for 100.00 or so and just wondered if it would be worth it. If all it gets me is a mile or 2 per gallon it's probably not worth it as it would take a couple of years to pay back and I hope to have a place to keep the car by then so I don't have to drive it every day. When that happens I hope to build a more performance oriented engine and have some fun with the car.




Here are a few lo buck to no buck things you can try that will not disable the car for longer than a few hours:

Reduce the size of the primary main air bleeds by inserting wire. Start small and go larger until you get a stumble, then back off. This will delay the start of the main circuit, leaning out the bottom end. It would help if you had a caliper or a micrometer to measure the wire. Long term if this works out for you, you should probably drill and tap the carb to accept homemade screw in air bleeds. You don't even have to disassemble the carb to try the wire here. Cost: zero if you have a variety of scrap wire and access to a caliper or 0-1" micrometer.

Insert wire into the idle feed restrictors. Same as above, starting small and slowly going up until lean miss is encountered. If you think the idle circuit is rich, this can calm it down. The idle circuit is still very much in play at light cruise. Cost: in addition to the above, a set or two of block gaskets, bowl gaskets and bowl screw gaskets.

If you're a tinkerer with a low budget, this stuff can help.

Jim

Re: Millage carb? [Re: JimG] #157869
11/29/08 10:54 AM
11/29/08 10:54 AM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 589
Fortworth TX
M
mod5v Offline OP
mopar
mod5v  Offline OP
mopar
M

Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 589
Fortworth TX
Thanks Jim I do have a digital caliper so I'll look up some wire and see what happens. I have no stick gaskets so I should be able to get it done for free. I read about the idle air and fuel restricters in a diffrent post but it didn't ocur to me to just partially block them temporally to get the correct sizes.

Re: Millage carb? [Re: mod5v] #157870
11/29/08 10:59 AM
11/29/08 10:59 AM
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30,424
Florida STAYcation
dOrk ! Offline
The village idiot's idiot
dOrk !  Offline
The village idiot's idiot

Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 30,424
Florida STAYcation
How about your vacuum advance ?

Re: Millage carb? [Re: dOrk !] #157871
11/29/08 11:47 AM
11/29/08 11:47 AM
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
J
JimG Offline
mopar
JimG  Offline
mopar
J

Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 531
Virginia
Quote:

How about your vacuum advance ?




Good question! Mod5v asked about carbs, and that's where my mind went. D'oh!, to quote Homer Simpson.

Hey Mod5v, I thought of one more thing. If you opened your secondary throttle plates to get the primary t-slot/throttle plate relationship corrected, close 'em back up and drill holes in the throttle plates instead. While opening the secondary throttle plates will allow you to fix the priamry t-slot thing without any drilling, the now-exposed secondary t-slot will allow fuel to be sucked in during high vacuum situations (coasting). Most folks prefer not drilling their carb, even if it means some fule might be wasted. You seem to have other priorities. I'll let you decide if the risk is worth the gains. Exposed T-slot wastes fuel.

Your engine is small enough that this is probably not be an isuue, but I'd check it anyway. Again, it keeps to your low budget requirement.

Jim

Re: Millage carb? [Re: JimG] #157872
11/29/08 01:57 PM
11/29/08 01:57 PM
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,238
Nevada
D
dezduster Offline
pro stock
dezduster  Offline
pro stock
D

Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,238
Nevada
What about timing, total advance, advance curve and vacuum advance, play a huge roll in fuel efficiency. Is your total timing 40 degrees+ when vacuum is in?
What is your cruise RPM?

My duster with a 422ci small block 750BG double pumper,3.23s gears,.82OD trans and 28inch BFG drag radials gets 19 to 21mpg @ 70mph. Around town not so much but not bad enough that I check town driving mpg. Timing Vacuum advance in is 48 total.

Re: 14 MPG is what they get ? [Re: dezduster] #157873
11/29/08 02:37 PM
11/29/08 02:37 PM
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,261
ILL
mark7171 Offline
pro stock
mark7171  Offline
pro stock

Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,261
ILL
Im running a 323" 4spd 4dr with 3.23 gears, and the 340 cam. 1.88/1.60 valve 318 heads 8.8:1 compression. The best 318 mileage manifold is the singleplane Edelbrock "streetmaster 318" intake. It is a 0-4,800rpm band intake made for better mileage and stimulating vacuum. I found an old 770 SA holley with a stiff secondary spring really works excellent. I tune with a vacuum gauge, it diagnoses what you need to see.

Use the lightest wheel and tires. my 225/60 on steels weigh in at about 14# a wheel.

i get about 14MPG with everything. The biggest trick is the 1st to 4th skip shift.

20 MPG driving around is near impossible.

A edelbrock AVS is a excellent street carb.

Page 2 of 2 1 2






Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.1