I saw a deal on some unused Procomp bb heads (the Victor clones) with 2.20" and 1.81" valves for less than I see the bare heads alone. I haven't bought them, and most likely WON'T, but was curious if the Procomp valves they include are even reasonable parts to use.

Never seen their stuff up close and can only guess at what they might supply. If they're junk, the heads aren't really priced any better since the hardware would just go into the dumpster.

China valves I wouldn't use them in my lawn mower.

I wasn't expecting a , but was wondering if anyone had personal experience with them. A couple of people in the 2013 Engine Masters ran Procomp heads on big block Mopars, but I'd expect those started as bare heads and had good stuff put in them.

Any way, I'm going to pass on them. Looks like they really need a lot of "make ready" work before anyone should bother to try out a set.

Call Pro-Comp and talk to them about it. Tell them you're concern, and ask them who they buy valves from. They don't manufacture them. They likely buy from Ferrea or someone like that. If they do, then they should be fine, if they can't tell you.... might be a red flag. I've got Pro-Comp rockers, and I called them one time when an adjuster broke. They were totally up front about issues with their adjusters, and reccomended I change them all out. They sent me a complete new set of different ones from a for free. My point is that I got good customer service from them, so I would just call and voice your concern and see what they say. My bet is that if they're marginal quality valves, they'll tell you.

I grabbed this from another mopar site. Doesn't clarify the valve manufacturer but may interest you.



Re: Aluminium heads from Procomp
« Reply #6 on: July 20, 2010, 07:58:23 PM »

I bought a set this spring and have not been happy at all. First off the valve size is listed at 2.25 and 1.88 but the head is meant to have 2.20 and 1.81 like the edlebrock victors. With the bigger size the valves are so close together that you can't hardly tell with the naked eye that they are not, there is barley enough room between them to slide a piece of paper. Not enought to componsate for the size difference when they heat up in my opion. The reason for the the 2.25 instead of the 2.20 from what I was told is that the 2.25 and 1.88 are a common Chevy valve in that lenght so it is much cheaper to send em out with these instead of the proper size. But then of coarse have a look at where the vavles seat then. The engine shop I had look at them laughed at me and said that was as poor of valve job as you could do. So I had the valves taken out and turned down to the proper size and then did a valve job. So right there tack another $400 on to that great deal your getting. And it doesn't stop there. With the off set valves and the bigger intake runners the push rods for the intake valves have to run at a slight angle. Not a big deal it's only 3-4 degrees but the problem is the holes through the head are straight. The holes are so far out you have to bend your push rods like a bannana to tighten down the rockers, and yes my rockers are shimmed properly. So back off the engine and over to the machine shop again. Then you will find there is no easy way to measure thickness inside the intake runner so taking material out with an end mill is a nerve racking process and you won't know if you have taken enough untill you put em back on the engine. I have made three trips the machine shop and spent two whole days with a die grinder and the bastards still don't fit.

Why didn't I buy the Eddies I would have been racing a month ago instead I am chewing my nails to the bone and praying that I don't blow through in to the intake runners.