Another view...

Different setup than my calipers then..

Yep, but for 225 per caliper, I think they are still a steal of a deal!

Well Brembo does not sell service parts for OEM calipers and Mopar only sells the bridge bolt with the calipers. So I called Ford, they list the anti Rattle kit for the 2013 GT500 as a 2b164 part number, I ordered a kit for $31.00, so I hope it comes with the bolt. Tim

The kit from Ford had the bridge bolt, I will have pics when I get home. Now to make adapters once I finish drilling the rotors. Tim

That is cool you were able to find the bits for them seperately.

Its kinda disappointing that Mopar doesnt support their products better!

Is the GT500 the same caliper?

Also, what's the full part number? This is what I found with that extension... No Bolt

I'd make my own bridge and call it good.


Once you get the calipers installed you need to do something about those girlie sized feet.

The GT500 is supposed to be the same caliper, they are made for the OEM's and are not the same as the GT6 series calipers. I got one for a 2013 SRT8 Grand Cherokee. They are listed on Ebay for about 300 each. The Ford Part number is DR3Z-2B164-A for the anti rattle clips and bridge bolt. For 32.00, I could not build the bridge bolt, considering my time. Since my lathe is down, it is more of a pain than its worth. I still have to drill the rotors, I should see how the mustang rotors fit compared to the GC rotors. Projects like this get expensive if I start buying parts just to see if they fit. Tim

Well the rotors are thinner on the GT500, the bridgebolt is too short...by about 3/8", but at least now I have a pattern to work from...crap, another 30.00 wasted unless I modify the bolt I have and making it work. Tim

I usually use Rock Auto or one of the other sites only to get some basic dimensions.

GT 500 Rotor

Another rotor to look at might be the CTSV rotor. You'll have to drill the bolt pattern, but I believe they are the same thickness as the GC rotor. 10mm smaller diameter should work.

CTSV Rotor

Yep, too short, maybe I can make a bushing and open up the recessed area and make it work. Tim

Rock is handy for that.

Here are the ones I use (and feets used to as well)

I notice the AMG rotors are thicker than most others out there.

Bummer the pins didn't work out...but should be able to over come it, it looks like with a little work.

Here is the info on the Jag XKZ
Descripition:

UPC: 018575357276

Style: Full Cast

Bolt Circle (in): 4.252

Bolt Circle (mm): 108.00

Overall Height (in): 1.890

Overall Height (mm): 48

Outside Diameter (in): 14.961

Outside Diameter (mm): 380

H&R / R: Disc Only

Solid or Vented: Vented

Nom Thk (in): 1.417

Nom Thk (mm): 36.00

Min Thk (in): 1.34

Min Thk (mm): 34.00

No. of Stud Holes: 5

Stud Supplied (in): No

Well unless someone from here is willing to provide some technical support, I am starting to lose interest for now on this project. I feel that I am not making much progress on finding wheels to fit our older cars with big brake kits that dont cost a fortune. I enjoy projects like this but my resources are running dry...Tim

American Muscle sells affordable wheels in 19" sizes in 5-4.5 patterns.

How much are you realistically looking to spend on wheels ?

Going with the diameter of rotor you have chosen means of course you need 19"? or 20" wheels, so that is going to raise the price over 18" stuff.

You might have to reverse engineer the direction you go, in picking the wheels first and built the brakes to suit, again depending on your wheel budget.

They are still some decent priced 2 piece wheels out there if you look which lets you built the back spacing you need to fit everything properly.

Or of course try and find a one piece wheel that just happens to be about the right back spacing and then you need to build a hub and rotor and caliper package to fit under the car ok for the wheel. (plus then get the diff width right too)