Does any one have a really nice RH manifold with the original heat control in place? I need close up pictures of the pins that hold the springs in place. Also a diameter measurement of both pins.

A good friend of mine is a machinist and removed the broken pin... the outside diameter is different than the pin on the opposite side. Being that I don't have another original to go by we need some measurements from another manifold before he can make a new pin.

Jason, the one pin is part of the butterfly shaft.
The detail/pic is of the spring anchor on the engine side.
If you need more info I can get it.

Thank you.

Post deleted by JRepucci

Marlon made time to make the pin and install the control valve.

Marlon does "Primo" work

Yes, very impressive, beautiful dark blue color. He showed me the exhaust manifold retention nuts that he custom machined one at a time out of some kind of exotic alloy that wouldn't rust......He HAND MADE FREAKING NUTS? Now there is a detail man if I ever met one.

Very interesting read there Scott and Jason.....

Looks

I you have a chance, do a quick test fit of your manifold on the engine. I was looking at the heat riser set up on my 68 motor and noticed that the pin has maybe a 1/16" - 1/32" clearance to the block. Do your test fit without a gasket. I originally used an exhaust gasket with my hemi and within a year it blew out, I followed advice from the forum and used a little hi-temp rtv and bolted the manifold back on without a gasket. No issues since then. I set up all the choke items on my 68 RR and it works great. Be prepared to spend some time "adjusting" those heat tubes. My intake to exhaust manifold wasn't too bad but the other one going to the exhaust pipe was a mess. That one is a bit more difficult to mock up since you need to have the exhaust head pipes sitting at the car-installed angle. I had to do mine after the motor and exhaust were in the car. best approach on that was to build/modify from the exhaust pipe back up to the manifold. I had to remove the carbs and just lay over the motor to work it. Another thing I discovered was that you can't install one pipe at a time. They have to be removed and installed as a pair. Maybe that is just my case only - don't know. What made things even more difficult is that the automatic dipstick tube wants to occupy the same space. I'm happy I went through all the trouble as I can just press twice on the gas pedal and turn the car over with just the key for about 5 seconds and it fires up every time and goes to fast idle. Let it run for a bit and tap the pedal and it settles down to normal idle. One other thing for using the heat riser valve is to stop by the dealership and get a spray can of their rust penetrant (04318039AC), this is the replacement for the heat riser lube that they had years ago - good stuff, I spray the shaft about every two months or so.

Jim

Does anyone have a copy or photo of the original service replacement instruction sheet that came in a NOS kit? This is a picture of a kit on Ebay... Frank Mitchel.

Hey, Jason R.
I do.
Remember Edgett Chrysler Plymouth, that used to be here in Rancho Cordova.
I have what's left of a heat riser repair kit, that is dated 07-05-78 that the instruction paper is still in the little box.
You know my phone number.
Jim V.

Hey, J.R.
Not to hijack your thread, or anything, but this is what i have left of a heat riser kit, from the days when i had my 71 Hemi GTX, 4 speed car.
Jim V.

One more thing to pass on, when you get the counterweight on the shaft and everything is set, put a small tack weld on it for insurance. I had mine nice and tight - or so I thought - the weight fell off during an early testing run and you can't easily find the weight by itself and I ended up buying another complete kit... This one won't fall off ever again...

Jim