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Re: Doggy Engine on take off [Re: YO7_A66] #1521750
10/24/13 02:01 PM
10/24/13 02:01 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 114
Oakdale, MN
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weazel Offline OP
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weazel  Offline OP
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 114
Oakdale, MN
Quote:

""I have tuned the carb while in park, but I have not done so while in drive.""

Since you have an auto, you need to complete this first before swapping parts. Drive the car and get it up to running temp, then either apply the parking brake, or ask a partner to put it in D, then start with one of the metering screws. Turn one of the MS's inward about 1/8 of a turn and wait about 30 seconds or so. Then reset your idle speed if needed and check your vacuum reading. If you gained in vacuum, then make the same adjustment to the next MS. If the vacuum reading got lower, then turn the MS back to where you started and then 1/8 of a turn outward and wait another 30 seconds or so. Once you go back and fourth between the MS's 2-3 times, you may need to reset your idle rpms again. But you should start to see a difference in your vacuum numbers (after turning the MS's in or out) unless it was tuned correctly to begin with.

Note: Make sure that your MS's are set the same distance out before your start. Try to keep them the same turns outward. I like to take a permanent marker and I make a mark at 12:00 on each MS after I lightly snug them inward. This way I have a "visual" of how far out each MS is while I am tuning.




Very good info! Thank you I didnt know to do that while in drive. I only thought you did that while in park. Damn I learned something!! I'll let you know how it goes.

Re: Doggy Engine on take off [Re: weazel] #1521751
10/24/13 02:15 PM
10/24/13 02:15 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406 Offline
I Live Here
RobX4406  Offline
I Live Here

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
I don't think any amount of metering screw tuning is going to solve a 400-500 rpm drop from park to in gear. Something is VERY wrong.

Isolate the carb from everything else. If you have anything vacuum related hooked up to the carb, pcv/PB, remove it and block at the carb.

This is the same basic build and it idles at 850rpm in park and 750-800 in gear. It would kill the tires with a 2500 converter and 2.94 gears.


Re: Doggy Engine on take off [Re: RobX4406] #1521752
10/24/13 03:04 PM
10/24/13 03:04 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,443
Indiana
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YO7_A66 Offline
master
YO7_A66  Offline
master
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,443
Indiana
""I don't think any amount of metering screw tuning is going to solve a 400-500 rpm drop from park to in gear. Something is VERY wrong.""

WOW, I did not catch that note. I thought that he had 24 degrees of initial timing at 500rpm idle in D.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)
Re: Doggy Engine on take off [Re: YO7_A66] #1521753
10/24/13 03:57 PM
10/24/13 03:57 PM
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406 Offline
I Live Here
RobX4406  Offline
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
Quote:

""I don't think any amount of metering screw tuning is going to solve a 400-500 rpm drop from park to in gear. Something is VERY wrong.""

WOW, I did not catch that note. I thought that he had 24 degrees of initial timing at 500rpm idle in D.




Correct. I read 24 initial and that huge RPM drop indicates there is something going crazy. A huge vacuum leak, etc. It should idle easily like the car in that video, 16 initial/34 total all in at 2500. 24 is a lot with that set up.

A stock converter works fine with an xe268H, no need for a stall converter with that camshaft.

I think there may be an assembly issue. This has been an ongoing series of threads on another board. I doubt the camshaft was degreed so there is no idea where it's installed. If assembled correctly, cylinder pressure should be in the 160+ range is my guess. Hopefully it's something easy hooked to the exterior of the engine.

Re: Doggy Engine on take off [Re: RobX4406] #1521754
10/24/13 06:10 PM
10/24/13 06:10 PM
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 553
DE
Ply72rr Offline
mopar
Ply72rr  Offline
mopar

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 553
DE
You already tried another carb and that made no difference,if you have access to spares I would try swapping another distributor, ECU, and coil(one at a time).

Re: Doggy Engine on take off [Re: Ply72rr] #1521755
10/24/13 07:04 PM
10/24/13 07:04 PM
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 992
Simi Valley, CA
MoparJ Offline
super stock
MoparJ  Offline
super stock

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 992
Simi Valley, CA
For what it’s worth, I have had a very similar issue with a 318 + .040 overvbore, XE268, SA 670 carb, 3.23s, and 2500 stall TC, all in an A body. Initial timing was/is at 18 degrees, total at about 37 degrees, all in by 2400. Car had big idle speed drop when put into drive and zero guts on the low end or from a stop. Turns out the converter’s insides had come apart. One new TC later, it easily will roast the tires from a light brake stand and break loose from a hard launch at a dead stop. Pulls hard for a small motor.

Currently, I run 69 jets in the primaries and 73s in the secondaries, with a fairly light secondary spring. The stock settings were a little lean on cruise.


2016 Ram 1500 Crew Cab: 5.7, 65RFE, 4.56 gears with locker, Hemifever tuned, AFE intake, 87mm throttle body, JBA headers, 3" Flowmaster exhaust, split to dual 2.5" exits. 13.57 best ET so far.

Searching for new A or B Body Project!
Re: Doggy Engine on take off [Re: MoparJ] #1521756
10/24/13 07:47 PM
10/24/13 07:47 PM
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 114
Oakdale, MN
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weazel Offline OP
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weazel  Offline OP
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 114
Oakdale, MN
As pointed out by Rob, yes this has been a ongoing series of threads on another board. I've thought maybe some new opinions would help trigger something.

As for the car being timed at 24* initial. Its because I only have 12* of mechanical in my dizzy. I did the mopar muscle dizzy upgrade.
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techa...em/viewall.html to try to fix my issue. For some reason it really limited my mechanical. My dizzy was exactly the same as the one in the arcticle along with the plate. I have thought about buying a new one, but the guy that curved my dizzy said there is nothing wrong with it.

I brought my carb to a performance shop today just to have them look at it. He upped my primaries to 69 and left the secondaries alone for the time being. He also changed my power valve to a 4.5, and the squirter to a 31.

I reassembled the carb and took for a drive. No change on the dead stop start/low end but man the response driving it is so much better.

While talking to him he is pretty sure the converter has a issue. Especially since I told him that it bogs and dies if I take my foot off the gas while doing a brake stand. He thinks the converter is way to tight or something wrong with it. You certainly wouldnt think a new converter would have issues but obviously one other member has had something very similar happen.

I sure wish I had my old converter to try, but that was scrapped.

Re: Doggy Engine on take off [Re: weazel] #1521757
10/24/13 09:20 PM
10/24/13 09:20 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
Circle Track
RapidRobert  Offline
Circle Track
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
Since I took the time to measure em here's the specs FYI. The P5007477 ones for the LA/mag swap are 7&5/8". The adjustable MP LA ones have a range from 7&3/8 to ~7&11/16". With my LA 360/felpro thick head gaskets/mag heads I need ~7&21/32" to get ~.030" preload & the 7477 ones gave me almost zero preload. Keep us informed how this turns out.


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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